Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

proper annealing methods in effect.

 

Some people like big rear ends, others go for big racks. Who’s to say you can’t have both.

 

Well played.

Mmm. Whistlepig.

 

Care to elaborate on that rack any? I haven't seen anything like what appears to be an offset aluminum bushing on the drivers side? TIA

 

I had started down this road a while back before Harry confirmed that the slide rack mod would work for the FJ platform. In truth, I would have gladly gone with the Tacoma and slide rack combo. However I had already purchased a Land Cruiser 200 rack and an offset bush from Iconic. The rack is the same one than Marlin fell back on after they abandoned their own design. It’s massive compared to the stock rack. You use the offset bushing to locate the driver’s side mount at the differential mount bolt and add a frame mount on the passengers side. The rack is wider between the mounting points, which a set of clevis ends mitigates some of that extra width. I don’t expect there to be too much additional bump steer with my long travel setup, but if you have stock spindles the extra width something to be aware of.

I worked with Harry on a custom adapter to the -6an pressure line. Actually pretty damn awesome how quickly he brought it together. Ordered the rack on a Thursday, he asked for my stock fittings which I shipped out the next day and within a week he had me all setup. Big thanks to Harry and team, it’s coming together quick.

While this will be way strong than a stock rack alone, I doubt this solution is any stronger than the slide rack. It will allow for boots on the rack for those concerned about get dirt under their fingernails. Also for anyone that’s gone to the LC200 rack and exceptionally oversized tires….you can now have a power steering pump and cooler solution that will help you steer those massive tires.

 

Nice, I plan to pair my tundra rack with the Howe pump at some point, should be a solid setup. Is there any bushing on that bushing, or is it solid aluminum?

 

It’s currently solid aluminum, which I share your concern over one being flexible and the other being rigid. The offset hole is about as close as you can get it to the edge of the barrel. Not much more space in there for anything else.

 

Gotcha, I guess I don't understand why the need for the offset bushing as you are fabing the location for the passenger side mount anyway. From what I measured on mine, it was only off by 1/4" to the driver side, and the rack has more than enough stroke to compensate for this by centering the rack gear instead of the rack body. I ended up chopping out the entire crossmember and centered it on the frame, and lowered it to the stock height, but I cut the rack gear to stock width so do not have as much stroke on the gear to work with.

 

I believe it’s due to a couple of reasons. First centering the rack in the vehicle, then providing more clearance for the sector shaft connection, and the passengers side bolt head head placement is tight (as I write this I’m realizing the offset bushings make this tighter.) My buddy made me some sweet recessed frame support brackets that the bolt heads will recess into, so that last one may not be an issue for me. I saw your pictures of your cross member. Looks like there’s a lot of space when the diff bracket is out. Maybe that’s not as big of issue as I thought?

 

It’s tight, but it fits, about 1/4” clearance from the pass rack bolt to to the diff mount, the two bolts are about 2” apart and the diff bolt is slightly offset from center to the rear. I’ll be chopping out the frame for the sector shaft clearance, and probably doing a new driver motor mount that will be angled.

 

Is the duct tape a required element for this installation ?

 

Absolutely, no custom work is completed without a little duct tape.

 

This makes not wanna be cheap and go 14 bolt or sterling. Watching to see finished product.

 

Well I think I gotta give @81Trekker some props on building some stout lca mounts. Hit a g out at about 25 and this seems to be the worst of the damage. Pretty sure if I was still on factory mounts I would have ripped the forward mount off the frame.

 

did you rip one of the tabs off?

 

Looks like one of the alignment tabs is sheared off. Which definitively puts it into a hard hit.

 

How come you didn’t have the alignment cm bolted in place?

 

I wish I had a good reason….lol.. I had them rolled all the way in as well so it pulled it all the way out and pushed it past the tab. Not sure if the backside is also broken, will have to check when I get back home. But other than the tab itself it doesn’t look any worse for wear.

 

There's needle bearings inside this stub shaft from the ADD to the diff.. I rebuilt mine not too long ago because of a bad pinion bearing on the flange side. I also wanted to open up the ADD to inspect everything after shearing a front Currie Interprises extended axle. The clamshells aren't too hard to do..




Rebuilt and resealed the ADD stuff too.. I also soldered terminals at the motor to prevent corrosion which is a common problem for the East Coast dudes..




Also polished the shift fork , no more high/low spots..

 

Love the "Covid19 Edition" Gonna look at that in 5yrs and laugh.