Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

at 30 do you ever use it as a step or is it too steep? (foot too close to the paint)

 

I mean it is fairly close to the body but if you needed to use it as a step you could. Just not really the best use for a step. But I think anyone could use it as a step besides an elderly person. I’m also not super worried about that lower part getting a little scratched by shoes or whatever.

 

Yeah I've considered doing a white rhino style lining along the rockers for chip protection. I can make them whatever angle I want but I think they are already 20° which would be good for my wife probably to use for a step. Paint em up and throw some grip tape along the top side.

 

Here's how mine are layed out and I'd suggest for a DCLB @Slashaar . First one is as close to my body mount as possible to weld the plate. The next 2 are 10 then 13 in spacing. The back one is where the bed is and at the kick up of the frame. Then there is one centered between the 3rd and rear most. The reasoning for the ones towards the front to be so close together is that's where you'll be climbing then coming down the hardest. The rear most is obvious for as much support as possible for how long our sliders are.

 

I'd do 5 legs atleast. My sliders with 4 legs (1.75 .120 wall dom) have both the legs bending up, the frame bending in some with 4x4 plates/gussets, and the front portion of the slider is bending up towards the headlight from a side view. Rear kickout is also bending up from lack of support in the rear, so going to tie the 5th into my spring hanger towards the rear of the cab. Half my legs are also getting crushed up from snagging on things, which probably doesnt help their strength out.

 

If you’re going to be beating your sliders I would do an overlay on the entire outside of the frame with 3/16 then attach off of that. Each leg is going to be a pressure point on an impact and our frames aren’t very stout to begin with.

 

I've been throwing around the idea of that as well.

 

It’s the only correct way to do it in my opinion. Otherwise you run the risk of frame damage caused by a part that was supposed to be sacrificial.

 

Good point. Time to start checking steel prices.

 

I'd do it. But take a look at how the Jeep XJ frame stiffeners are done. You'll want some holes or slits through the center of the plate so that you can weld the middle to the frame. Otherwise you'll just be perimeter welding a skin that the center portion could deflect and pull away from the frame.

 

Yes. Absolutely rosette weld them. If you want to go crazy, also rosette weld the holes that are on the back side of the factory frame as well. Doing this stuff is also going to stiffen up the whole mid section of the frame which is a good bonus.

 

Is that what you did to yours?

 

This is what I did when I rebuilt mine. Few rosette welds on the outside of the frame abs welded in as many of the factory holes from the back side as I could relatively easily get to. Which was most of them.

 

Well shit. Guess I’m going to be eventually be redoing mine. Guess that’s what I get for not researching it more. I don’t think I’m going to be banging the shit out of them though since I don’t have money to fix stuff right now.

 

Fwiw I feel like I absolutely beat the shit out of my old ones with only 3 legs, a terrible design and fitment that included filling in 1/4-1/2” gaps with weld. They lasted me 8 years and were one of the first things I ever fabricated and welded. Only replaced them because they got bent so bad on the rubicon that you couldn’t open the rear doors

 

Were they beating the hell out of the body? Like the punch seam area. If not that crazy. I have 5 mounting points and mine seem to hit the body on a hard hit.

 

Negative. Mine are still the bolt on flavor. But if I was welding them on that’s 100% what would be done. My sliders just don’t see much abuse so I don’t see the sense.

 

Not really. The legs were about 3/8” away from them and gusseted. I think they probably touched the pinch weld a few times over the years but they certainly didn’t beat the heck out of them.

 

Thanks for sharing this. I am going to get the voltage booster and try it out. I was debating putting the lead battery in the bed somewhere but I would really prefer to put it behind the seat for cleanliness and to keep it out of the elements. So I am going to try it out. Getting a battery from battery plus this weekend then hopefully it doesn’t take too long to get the voltage booster.

 

Holy crap steel has shot up. I may just see if I can make do with the 4"x4" plates with 2"x1" gussets, since that's what I already have enough A36 for. Seems like most weld ons on the market only use a small pad for each runner and not a full plate. Rounded corners and all that on the plates. Real question is parallel to the frame or 45° for best resistance to 'can opener' action on my frame rails. If I only need 8" runners then I can squeeze 10 of them out of my 8' of steel, but I'll need to source enough extra plate for the 2 extra runners. I'll probably just mount with the 4 and then see if I can squeeze another in later on the upturn of the frame like @ovrlndkull Skip's 5th one. Other option is I have DXF file to make bolt plates but then I run into needing steel again which used to be almost half the price it is now 4 years ago. Assuming I need 3/16" A36 in a 4x8 sheet is like $1200+ on onlinemetals.
These $200 sliders turned out to not be such a cheap buy...