Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Looks great! Immediately noticeable improvements? I've been tinkering with the idea of upgrading my tie rods because they keep blowing up every few months with 35s..

 

I will add another question: Are people running the UMP filter as a pre filter for the stock filter or as the only filter?

 

In the pics Harry has posted the UMP is the only filter.

 

You need to run the 4” inlet/outlet x 18” long UMP if you are doing a single. If you go duals you can run the shorter ones.

And yes they are 100% in place of the stock air box/filter

 

can anyone repost the picture that Harry posted of the braced front frame horns?

 

No lol. Maybe slightly more turn radius but i think the real improvement just comes from strength. I haven't been off road with them yet. @Gilmorec61

 

This?

 

Not sure if it's anything lik a first gen, but my aftermarket core support had none of the support material that the OEM one had for where the body mount attached. It cracked on top and bottom and I had to reinforce it. Something to look out for maybe on yours.

Had to sleeve and plate it.

 

Who needs weld clean up? F it just weld over coated frame haha.

 

I flapped it best I could, but it's a tight spot and a cheap core support. That was before full weld
If it cracks more then I'll just build my own core support.

 

Just messing with you man, I’ve welded over paint before haha. I’m sure it will hold just fine.

 

All done

 

Alright. I’m having difficulty here. The spacers in the rear mount are not going. On the front I was able to bar them open enough to squeeze them in. I’ve had the porta power on this rear mount and I cannot open it enough to save my life.

 

I had the same issue so.....
you have 2 choices really....machine down the spacer in your hand or machine the misalignment spacer that is in the uniball. I was able to use my lathe to machine down the uniball misalignment so everything went together butter smooth.

 

The LCA tabs can warp and pull in while welding, it’s not uncommon. With the Uniball setup the spacing is more critical which is why you never noticed it with the bushings. As @Airdog said you can simply turn down the misalignment spacer to get everything perfect.

 

I guess for now I’ll put a couple of washers in there while I get everything setup. Just crazy, I even had my bushing pins in with .020 shims torqued down when I welded the pivots in. Not the end of the world I suppose, just wasn’t expected.

 

Do the bump stops just strike on the axle housing? No worry about tearing off those low-hanging u-bolts? Why not flip the u-bolts and incorporate a strike pad on the flipped assembly? Not being a dick. Just an honest question. Thanks.

 

But what bushing sleeves did you have in there? The Dirt King ones?

Our LCA kit and LT kits are .020” over brand new OEM bonded rubber bushings.

The few DK kits I’ve done the bushing sleeves were all shorter than the OE.

 

The bumps strike the top of the housing. You can’t flip the ubolts on a spring under as all the forces of the truck bottom out is relying on two u bolts.

Because the D60 is a 3.5” housing I had to make new lower springs plates to accept the wider u bolts. They are at powder coat so these ones that came with the housing are on for now. The style I make sucks the u bolts up past the springs