Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

2nd to 3rd gen fiberglass?

 

It’s not a conversion kit if that’s what you’re asking. But yes I am converting it.

 

-12 9" so pretty similar to an 8.5" 0 and will stick out about 1" more than a 8" 0 offset. I'll be sticking with those specs maybe a tad more aggressive.

 

You’ll have about .75” more poke than I do, she finna be wide as hell.

 

Meh by my calculations she'll be right around 82-84" outside to outside of the wheels tires it'll be more like 86" total. The jeep is going to be closer to 88-90 when it's done.

 

You’re welcome. Worked great for me too, especially after everything I tried that didn’t work. Note, ream the spindles before you weld.

 

So @81Trekker did I get an oddball lca pivot kit cause mine came with some oval spacers inside the pivots and 9/16 bolts… so I never had to do anything with my lca sleeves when I installed mine…

 

Idk when you ordered yours but IIRC in the earlier days he offered separate ones for second and third gens and then eventually switched to all of them having the larger third gen rear bolt.

 

Mine just fit the 9/16th bolt ...no oval spacers

Yes the early ones were still a work in progress. Mine was the first one done outside his shop and was made specific for 2nd gen....guess sometime after that they streamlined it to work with both gen trucks.

 

Or maybe mine are 1/2…. Whichever the factory 2nd gen is…but there’s a spacer inside the tab so who knows and last may.

 

20 hrs later. Finally done. Everything went pretty smooth besides for me forgetting about the rear cam. That reamer made quick work of it. Did uca gussets and front diff fluid change while I was there. I ended up using the extra washers as well with the 3 spacers. So 3 spacers plus the washer. Still had slight play with the 3 spacers.

 

We carry both bolts for the kits at the shop. We have the 9/16 for the 2nd Gen and 4th Gen 4Runner and the 5/8 for the 3rd Gen guys.

 

I have been messing with the cams and when I maxed both cams outward to push the lower ball joint out it still looks like I still have positive camber. I am pretty sure I installed them right? Am I missing something?

 

Can you flip the cams over?

 

Harry said the way he packages them and put them together is the more outer option if I understood correctly. So I put sharpie marks on the outside face of the cams before I took them apart and put them on exactly how they were packaged. I guess we will see what the alignment guy says when I take it in. Might just be my eyes

 

I suppose they would be if they were on the opposite sides of the vehicle. If you have a level gauge, you can measure from a flat spot near the hub for a relatively close measurement.

 

Flip your cams.

Edit. @lferrara Yours are the same as mine. Did you roll it and let it settle after moving them around?

 

Not yet, so that could be part of it. I think I’m just going to take it in and if I don’t get the caster and camber I want then I will flip the cams. I can feel the bolt hitting the end of the slot going out with how they are now though so I’m not really fully understanding how flipping the cams would allow more adjustment. I think flipping them would do the opposite and give me more adjustment in for positive camber.

 

Go roll it and see how much it settles out. Here is mine where it looks like positive camber. I had it up in the air to bleed the steering. I have not rolled it. It settles back down after I roll it back and forth.

 

Yours is setup for all the way in right now. From the looks of how much camber you have you need to flip the cams. The cams get you about 60% of the original alignment ...when you flip them you get 60% the other way. My cams are all the way in in this pic


Here is what a cam looks like setup for max outward adjustment