Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

All I know is I gave the driveline shop my measurements at full droop, ride height and full stuff and they made it work. That’s about as much help as I can be in this. Gonna go thru again as soon as Harry get parts to start building my full float.

 

I don’t understand why anyone would run a one piece drive shaft. Our SUA kit works without driveshaft modification on the OE two piece drive line.

 

I was going through carrier bearings like crazy after the truck was geared. OE Toyota and spicers were lucky to make it 4 months. Maybe my shaft was shot or something, idk.

 

I had a shop make a stronger 2 piece with 1410 greasable u joints for ease of replacement after my carrier bearing failed. Premature failure of the carrier bearing was all do to not properly setting up the driveline angles in my case. So far it’s been great after setting up the new one with an angle finder.

 

Unless you are a loser like me with 2WD...then ya gotta have a slip yoke installed....but i gave them measurements anyways to make sure it was built correctly. That was 3 years ago...carrier bearing and ujoints are all in perfect shape.

 

I"ve been running this polyurethane CB from Inland Empire Drive Line Specialists since 2016 with zero problems and still going strong to this day. It's essentially a CB from a Mid Model Ranger..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-4#post-25725061

 

I still have mine in the original shipping box from the group buy long ago. I'll probably have it installed it this time when I add the ford 9 rear end here in the next few months.

 

There you go, Ford Ranger CB to go with that Ford Rear End..

 

The OE 4wd rear section of DS has a slip yoke in it already. I will never understand why Yota omits one on the 2wd IMO that's asking for trouble. EVERY other DS I've ever seen has one either in the DS itself or the transmission and end of the DS.

 

After I linked the rear, I haven’t had a single driveline vibration at any speed. I just eyeballed the pinion angle and was going to adjust it later, but didn’t need to. Can’t explain it. I tried every combination of shim cb drop etc before and it always vibrated. Hell the rear end would literally bounce at 35. That probably doesn’t help anyone, but it’s a mystery to me. Maybe someone knows why?

 

Leaf springs axle wrap

 

Working on fitup for my frame plates today. Pretty time consuming with how inconsistent these frame rails are.

 

My DS was too long at full droop as well. If you measure for full droop, that's when it is closest, it only gets further away by a couple of inches at full stuff.

 

Single piece?

 

Two piece with a double cardan joint at the cb

 

Double cardan after the CB seems to be the way to go. Should have been like that from the factory

 

Looks good. You make these yourself?

 

Thank you. And yes I am making them myself.

 

18hrs on the second go with the jd fab subframe. Subframe, uca double shear, and a respring/revalve. Working my way towards Harry status and 16hrs although my arms are absolute jello now.

Only picture I took all weekend lol.


Old welding glove sleeves make great shields for the cutting/ grinding phase of the subframe. Complaints before starting everything were clearance issues with 35’s and harsh top out. Clearance issues totally solved, but I got scared on the revalve and only made minor changes. He said it still tops our real hard but we switched to 700# springs from 650 and with all the geometry changes I didn’t want to change valving too much until the ride height and alignment were dialed in. Alignment in a few days and revalve probably next weekend with some more drastic changes to rebound.

 

I’m not having any luck with Dakota digital using the abs wheel speed sensors for an input.

I’m still waiting for a response from them for next step if they think they can make it work.

Their speedometer module is looking for an AC signal most times generated from the older style tone rings.

Toyota uses an active 2 wire Hall effect sensor for their abs sensors. It has a 12v source without a direct ground. The ground/signal wire floats off a resistance in the abs module(I have not verified the value) but the skid ecu monitors a change in current for keeping track of the abs wheel speed(7-14ma differences). I’m leaning on their next answer is they cannot use the Toyota abs for input.

I’m going to be sticking a sensor in my Tcase for VSS.

I tossed the idea to @Airdog of keeping the smarts of the abs pump on the truck to keep moving forward with abs removal. Deleting the mechanical pump side, hydraulic side, but keeping the module tucked somewhere might be the best option for 2wd trucks looking to ditch abs when going to full float.

Here is what the abs module off a Camry looks like. I’m assuming it’s similar on our trucks. If this was kept on the truck, sealed with a plate instead of the other half of the abs pump, it would keep wheel speed once you rewire the front sensor into the right rear input. I will test this once I get my T case VSS working. I would still think the abs light and stability control lights would come on though. At some point it must monitor the circuit for abs pump and realize it’s missing.