Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

FYI - While working on @81Trekker 's fenders I figured out an easy way to put an inner lip back onto a cut fender. Use a flexible template board like Ramboard cardboard ( would need a release agent ) or the thin plastic template board stock which will release and leave a perfect surface. Cut it into 2" strips 4' long and tape it to the lip all the way around then lay up chopped mat from the back of the fender up the lip. 8 layers of mat and you'll have a return edge as thick as the fender itself. Maybe Harry can post a pic of how I have his front fenders jigged up currently.

 

It's funny you mention that. I was actually playing with a flexible ruler the other day and had it taped up to the edge thinking it would work to form a new one. I don't mind not having the lip there so I'm a little undecided on what I will do. If I leave it bare I was just going to put some U-channel around so rocks don't smash it apart.

 

A clean 1/4" return just makes it look really " pro" ...and adds some rigidity as well.

 

Yeah I just took it to a shop around here that does a lot of custom jeeps. I agree with Harry though. I mean weights have been proven to work well so why do something different. Beads just seem to hit and miss. Didn’t really want to work for my situation and I was tired of messing with it.

 

I have 37x12.5x17 Geolanders on some Icon Rebound Pro wheels, Icon's version of a beadlock, DOT approved.
105 lbs wheel and tire.
4 of the 5 tires balanced with 1.5 oz or less
Here's how they balanced out, 5 tires in all.
.75oz
1oz
1.25oz
1.5oz
2.75oz

 

First time I’ve seen those in the wild. It’s a pretty clever design and seems like it would be pretty lightweight compared to a traditional beadlock.

 

That technology is interesting. I’m a bit iffy on the looks of that wheel, but I’m spoiled.

 

Hey @81Trekker, what’s the best way to take these 934s apart. And what’s the best way to pack them full of grease. I see this tool but it seems kinda silly to need it. And I ordered the boots and Jesse sent hardware. Thanks!

 

Just unbolt them from the flange. I use the swepco grease in the caulk tube and squirt it in with the caulk gun. Mess free, quick and easy

 

I have the same tire in 35’s and really like them. Isn’t the red dot supposed to go on the valve stem or did I just understand wrong?

 

With how much time you put into the rear of the frame and trying to stiffen the frame is there a reason you didn’t just do a cage? Just seems like the time you put into it you probably could of just done a cage.

 

I’ll be putting just as much focus in the center of the truck too. Next year it will be caged. Basically laying a solid foundation for a cage. IMO if you land tube on top of c-channel you’re still going to get some amount of flex. You won’t often see a cage landing on a c-channel frame that hasn’t been boxed.

 

Why land on top?

 

Is there something wrong with boxing the frame in and adding extra bracing along with a cage? Because in my mind it’s the best way of doing it. It’s what I’ve done many times over on cars to stiffen the chassis as much as possible. And it definitely does help.

 

You completely missed the point. Where else where you advise landing the tube on a C-notched frame?

 

I’ve seen people intersect the top plate on the c and have it land on the bottom c. Weld at both locations and then plate once done. Adds some complexity when designing and measuring but helps spread the load.

 

Also a solid option. The route I’m going is I’ll be doing internal gusseting on the frame where the A, B and C pillar tubes will land.

 

This is what I was getting at. But if the tube intersects the top and lands on the bottom does plating really add a benefit. But will take it a step further. Add cross tube structure. Use the frame essentially as a fixture for the tube structure.

 

Of course plating adds a benefit. Especially on a frame that is comparable to a noodle. My plan eventually involves a fuel cell to open the door for even more bracing under the body. Necessary? I’m not sure. But I certainly don’t see the harm in making your chassis as stout as possible from every direction. And a cage alone doesn’t do that unless you lace the shit out of it and lose room in the passenger compartment.

 

I am not saying plating would not add something but with a solid truss/triangled tube design would it be a measurable improvement?