Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Depends how you want to look at it. From a safety standpoint in a bad wreck it would likely be a decently noticeable difference.

 

Looks like the red and yellow dots are used when mounting the tire.
I posted about it here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yokohama-geolandar-mt-g003.571954/page-44#post-27198480

 

Red dot is the high point yellow dot is the low point valve stem goes to the yellow dot, not a big deal if you don’t have tpms as that would be the heavy spot on the wheel.

 

Dang. I thought the red spot was the low point and put all red dots on my valve stem. I think every tire manufacturer uses different colors so it makes it confusing. Google said Yokohama uses the red dot for low point. Googles let me down before though. I don’t think most tire shops actually use them but as long as your tire balances well I guess it’s not really a big deal. Just was curious.

edit: If the valve stem is located at the heaviest point on the tire, it will be lined up with a yellow dot on the sidewall. When a red dot is lined up with the valve stem you can assume that the valve is at the tire’s lightest point. By pairing a dot with either the lightest or heaviest weight area, you will achieve the optimum balance point during installation. If both colored dots are present, the red dot will take priority.

 

Big difference between high/low point, as in the radius of the tire for rolling in a still circle without offset,,, and the heaviest/lightest point, for balance.

From what I read on the links... the red spot is only if your wheel has a corresponding red spot for radial runout... if not then use the yellow dot aligned with valve stem, because yellow is the lightest side of the tire, and the valve stem is likely heavier, especially if you have TPMS.

 

Yeah I probably understood wrong. I just followed what the internet said. All my tires had a yellow and red dot. So put the red dot on the valve stem. Probably doesn’t matter a ton as long as they balance properly. I asked a guy at a tire shop about it and he said they never use them. As most shops probably don’t.

 

On her own weight for the first time since March 3rd. Feels damn good.

 

I just ran extensions off the frame out on 3x3x3/16 boxed in tubing and then gusseted even more in the frame and connected the boxes with more tube. About the strongest way I could think of to keep the tubes all the way out without doing 90 degree bends at the bottom.

 

Did both the a and b pillar like this and then the c pillar cross bars intersect to where the tube lands on its box. The 3x3 boxes are landed on doublers that I welded to the frame as well.

 

So I have the 2.25” kit and the pivot kit came with a bigger cam bolt, do I need different miss alignments for the lower control arms to accommodate the bigger cam bolt?

 

We can swap them out for you or you can simply ream the rear spacers to 5/8”

 

So speaking of ford 9s I scored this today for a very reasonable price. It's ready to get swapped in. Bonus is it's right at ~68-69 WMS-WMS and everything is set for a direct swap into a yota. Came with a line lock set up to bolt to the ebrake pedal and everything. The kid I got it from just had a shop redo his SAS build with 2 currie 9s. He isn't running any WSS in it at all. He said the shop tuned the ABS off with HP tuners and the Spedo still works. Sadly he isn't very savvy to understand everything so I have the name of the shop and maybe they can give me more info. The 9 I bought from him has custom machined bearing blocks and WSS rings on the axles it's not a FF though which isn't a complete deal breaker. ARB 35 spline with 5.29 gears, disc brakes, chromoly axles, big bearing. It's a decent set up not sure what center section it has I have to look it up he sent me the full build sheet.

Yes @EatSleepTacos the bed is still messy and unorganized. The straps are the old harnesses out of the jeep.

 

I had the shop weld a lip so I could use my BAMF skids

 

What’s the best way to access the bolts for the skid plate? I had pane one else weld up the pivot kit and seems to be a pain to access the nuts to remove the skid plate. Maybe I’m missing something but having a hard time getting to the nuts.

has anyone welded the nuts so it’s easy to remove?

 

Are you talking about removing the skid that comes with the LCA kit? If so it uses captive clip nuts so you don’t have to hold the nuts for removal

 

Spent the day making the rest of my frame plates. Once these are burned in it’s on to bumpers and paint. Praying for some shocks by the end of the month….

 

Very nice. How are you drawing & cutting the plates out? Cut a second pair and I’ll buy them from you. Lol

How long have you been waiting for shocks now?

 

I am doing all of it by hand. Making templates and plasma cutting it all out.

I did save all of the templates, I’m doing another Tacoma over the summer. Going to see how the templates fit on that one. Not really sure how different one frame can be from the next.

It will be 9 months at the end of this month for shocks.

 

You get that from that Kevin kid. I saw he was selling his a while back

 

Hmm I’ll have to try again they were spinning and we’re not loosening.