Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

One thing I've been tossing around for a while, and not entirely sure why it hasn't been a discussion in here yet. But why has nobody considered ditching the booster all together and going with manual masters? We have done quite a few manual setups and with the right master cylinder choice I actually prefer it over power brakes. It also makes it somewhat of a redundant system if you run dual masters/reservoirs. Lose one and you still have the other.

Brakes are pretty important, especially for the go fast guys. It really wouldn't take much to make it happen.

 

wilwood is a great setup, my buddy has it but it’s kinda pointless without master cylinder upgrade.

 

okay so first of all i happen to like my suburban mom-mobile interior

 

Like, eliminate power brakes? Granted my only experience with that was in a 1972 Chevy pickup but that shit was annoying having to press the brakes so hard (relative to power brakes). I distinctly remember getting back into a vehicle with power brakes after driving the Chevy for awhile and I almost put myself through the windshield.

 

You would be amazed what a properly setup manual system will do. Don't think about the old school stuff, because that all sucked. My dads nearly 1,000 hp boat of a blower car stops amazingly well with manual brakes. Its all about choosing the proper bore sizes, which isn't hard to figure out.

 

you mean like this?

 

Yup!

 

Is it doable with the stock pedal linkage?

 

I haven't dove in quite that far yet. But even if it wouldn't work with the factory pedal I don't think it would take much to add a Wilwood pedal. Best part is, all of this stuff is relatively cheap to do. You can get some nice pedal/master assemblies for under 300$

 

Now I’m curious about it. I didn’t look into it too much thinking the pedal ratios were way off. But if it can save me engine bay space and not having to shoe horn in a tundra booster. I would be down. I had few situations of no booster power and brakes would not stop no matter how hard I pressed.

 

What we have done on lots of cars is the wilwood pedal and masters under the dash then run bulkhead fittings through the firewall for brake lines and to keep reservoirs under the hood. Lots of different ways of doing this. But I don't think anybody would be upset with the performance.

 

I think you might be onto something with that. I didn't realize there were new axle assemblies out there for so cheap. It doesn't look like there is anyone jumping forward with the stubs available separately to sell... so might go down that path, can use it as is to plug the holes and make the truck roll with my RCV's out, and either sell the cheapo unit to someone for a trail spare, or cut/press it apart for the stubs for myself. Either way that is the range of money I was looking to spend on something, which is much less than even a crusty OEM part. Thanks!

 

You're just looking for a stub to get you home. How about carrying a 2wd bearing/hub? I carry two. This way I can get home if the bearing fails too.

 

The tundra booster is smaller diameter, but thicker compared to the tacoma booster. I didn't feel it takes up much more engine bay space, but when installing it does need to be wedged at an angle, between the studs through the firewall and the booster touching at the bottom on the inner fender. Once it slides into place it has plenty of room. Dunno if the clearance would be an issue with the high clearance inner fenders or not.

When eliminating power brakes, you would need to reduce the bore size of the master correct? In that scenario, I am unclear how it pushes the correct amount of fluid volume without having a much longer stroke on the pedal? Or am I off base on that?

 

If you have an angle grinder, that's all you need to disassemble it enough to use that outer stub in the wheel bearing. Remove the boot and cut the shaft as close as you can to the cage. Then you just rotate the cage around and pop out the balls. You only need to get that stub pressed out if you want to reassemble it for long travel axles.

 

I did that but should have made the garage look like a Dexter kill first. That shit is still everywhere almost a year later.

 

FWIW, the factory booster touches the JD inners. I had to do some forming to make mine clear. So getting a booster in might in fact involve removing the inner.

 

Ahhh... thanks for this! I was mistaken, confused actually. Thought it had to be pressed apart cause that is what I saw people doing that converted to 934. Now I'm more clear.

 

Happy to help. That’s why I try and share pics when I can because it helps quite a bit.

 

Well that sucked more than I thought it would. I don’t like sheet metal work.