Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

The steering feedback we’re talking about is the jarring and rattling back to the wheel. Not bump steer.

 

Yep. Big heavy tires don't help either, running 305/70 Ridge Grapplers.

 

I've installed a lot of these kits and had this happen a couple times. Cone lock nuts are super hard on the threads, and with part of the threads machined out, they do get stripped once in a while. Usually it happens after they've been on and off a few times.

I don't know if the alignment shop is good or bad, but I wouldn't completely blame them. I've also seen this happen a lot with SPC cam bolts which are the same design with a cone lock nut. You really have to use never-seize when you install them, and that will help a lot to prevent damage.

 

Looks like the V6 and V8 power steering pumps are pretty similar. V6 has an idle up connector on it though.

V6-



V8-



V6-


V8-

 

I’m on 37x12.50’s on beadlocks. So it’s a heavy combo. But my feedback is super minimal/almost non existent. I love it.

 

I have a data point here. May or may not help anyone with jarring in the steering wheel and poly bushings

Backstory: When I did a front end refresh, including the LCA mount kit, pushing wheels forward, whiteline LCA bushings, new steering rack with poly bushings, wheel bearings, new axles, UCA, etc, etc - I had tons of jarring in the steering. Small bumps, manhole covers, etc... would give clanky jarring feedback in the steering wheel, and offroad was of course worse. I didn't know what to think of it, guessing that it was the new tie rod angle from pushing wheels forward or something. I also had a problem with my steering rack shifting on the frame once, solved that by torquing the crap out of the rack bolts. But never got rid of the clunking/jarring.

a few weeks ago I dug in and took things apart. I found two things. The factory steering rack bolts are actually 11mm shank and 12mm thread bolts, so they neck down in the middle. Also the Energy poly bushing kit is a two piece sleeve, like the factory rubber bushing is. That is the problem that I was having, the two piece bushing could shift substantially on the bolt, causing the whole rack to shift based on squish of the bushing and movement of the two sleeves with respect to eachother. This would allow the rack to slide sidways, not changing my total toe, but changing the angle of the steering wheel when driving straight. In additon, the whole rack could clunk back and forth with the bushing itself deflecting as a result of the two piece sleeve. That movement created jarring and shaking of the steering wheel with even the smallest of bumps on the road. Hard to explain, but hope you are getting the picture. I could attach some pics if really needed.

Solution: I put in a whiteline bushing kit, and at the same time reamed the frame (which was very easy) and reamed the new one piece sleeves for a grade 8 1/2" bolt, that was long enough that the shank of the bolt went almost all the way up through the bushing (on drivers side which has bolt in from bottom, and passenger side is bolt in from top so full shank engagement to the bushing). This way, with the sleeve being one piece, it can't move with respect to eachother like the two peice can, and the whole sleeve is tight to the sleeve and also the bolt is tight to the frame... it is inherently stiff now instead of just relying on the torque of the bolt compressing the dual sleeves against eachother for the stiffness of the 'column'. Was able to click the torque wrench at 130lbs on the bolts, which I'm sure gave them a good amount of stretch without yeilding.

Fixed everything. No more clunking, straight steering wheel, and soft/supple feel on the wheel with no jarring. The bushing takes up the movement correctly now, without undue movement or jarring/shaking/impacts.

YMMV - take my solution with a grain of salt - but I was very happy with how it came out. 1000% better

 

Mounting points look to be identical. If the dimensions all match up I see no reason you couldn’t make it work. Though you will likely have to measure for a belt yourself and make some tweaks along the way and mounting for the reservoir and cooler may be different. Another option is porting a new OEM pump. There are some threads over on pirate about that.

 

Interesting! I'll have to take a look at my rack bolts. I've also heard the u joint on the steering shaft right at the rack has a tendency to go bad too, haven't checked or replaced that yet.

 

Gotcha. I misunderstood your post. I assumed you were still working on his truck since I know you’ve been working on it lately.

Post some vids up! Love to watch your truck work.

 

But those are

 

Big for the stock system I feel like.

 

Didn’t get far before the main leaf snapped. I guess 5.5 years of abuse is the limit for leafs before needing to replace them.

 

And...

 

Kinda beats the purpose but I wonder if the taco tab lockout cams work on the LCA pivot kit. Eliminates most adjustment so kinda counterproductive but it’s an option.

 

That’s the universe telling you to 4-link. Lol

 

Are the copper seals for the banjo bolts easy to find at a parts store? I just tightened mine down a bit, so maybe that’ll work.

 

I don’t see why not, Napa probably has them. They’re M10. Was this after wheeling? Do you have any gouges in the head of the banjo bolt? I’m wondering if you had the same issue I had where it came in contact with the secondary bypass shock tab.

 

I looked around and didn’t see any dents or dings. Only noticed after wheeling for a bit. I haven’t lost any considerable amount of fluid just eyeballing the reservoir. Maybe the fluid warms up and thins out just enough to escape a bit. I tightened about a quarter turn so I’ll ride a bit and check in a bit.

 

Doesn’t looked damaged like @EatSleepTacos did either. Replace the seal if needed. If it wasn’t tightened up enough, remember there’s half a ton worth of PSI in those lines, so it could just be a leak.

 

Tightened it up and took it for a gingerly stroll through my trails. Kinda broke another taillight, but no leaky brakes. Guess it was just a bit loose.