Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

That’s why I made the distinction of low hanging trailing arms. Yes you can tuck them up and triangulate them. I would never consider SUA or low hanging trailing arms for what I want to do with the truck is all.

 

I gotcha, on a side note look up “ultra 4 4600 car 4619”

 

It’s been a few years but I was quoted $5500 - $6000 (can’t remember exact number but I believe it was $5700)
for a 3 link setup by JTA fab

Not including shocks

 

Question for those that are running the 18” ump intake. So I installed mine and I am getting a p0171, po174, meaning it’s running lean on both banks and p0101, p117B. Has anyone else had this issue? Thanks.

 

Your MAF needs to be 6” away from the throttle body, it also wants to see a straight intake tube in.

The intake tube also needs to be 3” not 4” like you have. I use a 4/4 UMP and then go to a 90 degree step down elbow right out of the UMP so the entire tube can be 3”.

MAF’s are really sensitive and calibrated for a certain air volume, your setup is throwing everything off, hence the codes

 

Well as much fun as it is reading you guys argue about which rear suspension setup is superior even though there are far too many variables to consider to make an all inclusive decision, who has removed their ABS module on a TRD Sport? Is it a difficult process or fairly simple to remove the module and connect the brake lines, getting ride of the ABS entirely?

I'd like to go with a UMP filter but the ABS module is in the way. Not only that but the system has tried to kill me more times than it has every been useful while driving. Interested to hear how others have gone about doing this.

 

Myself and @EatSleepTacos have. Think he has a write up somewhere. I don’t have a sport but it can’t be much different unless you have that electric master cylinder setup thing. Mine is here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ord-9-inch-axle-install.771924/#post-27571591

 

I have, sorta. I’ve dubbed mine the Abs bypass because while I bypassed the abs module with a few fittings and a proportioning valve, I left the module in place. It kept all of my electronics happy, no dash lights. My goal wasn’t to free up space, just get rid of the abs functionality.

 

I just ran a kill switch to achieve a similar outcome. The dash lights up like a Christmas tree when the system is killed but the functionality is the same.

 

I know of electronic methods but I prefer this method. It's very simple and I know that I have a thoroughly bled system, no abs module to have air trapped in.

 

psst...pro tip - you can open your hood when you wash your truck

 

@906taco We appreciate you recommending the HT SAIS Bypass Kit. Wanted to provide some additional resources for anyone comes across this thread in the future.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.780847/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.780848/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.780849/

 

Extra pro tip- never wash it and you will develop a porcelain coating on the engine. Here is actual real life imaging of it being formed via natural processes-

 

How did you reconnect your crank case breather off of the passenger side valve cover? If that’s not connected back to the intake you will get lean codes as that breather actually pulls vacuum via the PCV. Said air IS metered via the MAF. Tube size and bends shouldn’t have anything to do with it.

 

It's the one part without a pile of dry mud on it...

 

Good eyes. I missed that part. With that out of the way it could even be a bad or dirty MAF. Idk, we never had issues stuffing MAF’s in front of turbos in larger than factory tubes. Air flow is air flow. Though a change could potentially require a reset of the PCM which can be done by disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together to discharge power. These trucks seem to like a “relearn” after making changes.

 

Respectfully this is incorrect, the tube diameter and MAF distance is critical as the MAF is calibrated according to those factors. Changing the tube diameter plays into air velocity which will affect the calibrations, especially on a sensitive MAF like the Tacoma’s have. We deal with this all the time as most trucks we build have custom intakes.

For example my personal truck barely ran with the MAF tune that was flashed to the ECU. When I had the truck tuned I went with a speed density tune (uses volumetric efficiency tables instead of MAF calibration) and it runs amazing. Yes the MAF can be recalibrated but there is a limit to it when trying to stuff more air into a motor, this is why most boosted cars move to a speed density style tune. Also with the first intake I built for the silver truck I placed the MAF too far away from the throttle body. When we hooked the truck up to Toyota’s computer you could see the MAF parameters struggling to recalibrate. I then moved the MAF to the 6” distance from the throttle body and the MAF calibration was spot on.

Again I’m not trying to sound like a know it all we just have a ton of experience with motor swap/ecu tuning... will a truck run with the MAF in the incorrect location? Yes... will it run as it should with it set up correctly? Yes, every time

 

There are tuning options if you want/have HPtuners. Others have grown the intake tube via the dual VVTi 1gr in the 4 runner/FJ. I believe it was a Subaru MAF that @JustDSM tuned. I do not believe it is an easy conversion and you'd still need to relocate the MAF.

 

The way I set mine up was by measuring the distance from the throttle body to the stock location of the MAF and putting it that far away. I also looked at your old post and took screenshots and saw that one was about where I put mine and one that was close.

I took a 3.5” tube and cut a 90* and pinched it/molded it to fit the 4” out from the UMP and just filled the gap so I had 1 less connection. Sounded like a great idea at the time.

Yes my engine bay is dirty it is now clean just got excited about finally getting my truck together.

The tube from the PCV is a piece of solid stock that I drilled out because I couldn’t find an aluminum tube the right size. I did what I could considering I couldn’t find any detailed instructions on what others have done.

I have tried tuning the truck and that has not helped other then the truck still runs and drives very well even with the lights on. I do know that the lights only come on after startup. If I clear the codes and drive it all day the lights don’t turn on until I turn the truck off and back on.

My next move is to move the MAF closer and if that doesn’t work lower the size of the tube to 3”.

Thank you for the help.