Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Having spent a lot of time with the first gens I can tell you now this stuff won’t work. With that said all this stuff could be done to a first gen it would just have to be done from scratch again.

 

Thats fair, and in some bent and twisted way i want to go at it from scratch anyway. I have already started down the path of suspension modification on a first gen by pushing the entire coil bucket/lower cross member group forward 1 inch and welding it all back on trying to not only clear larger tires but also better distribute the 200lb weight penalty i am gaining in a motor swap. Unfortunately is was before reading any of the information mentioned earlier in the development in this thread relating to adjusting caster angle and all while moving the control arms around. My approach was to move everything as a unit and maintain the factory geometry.

 

@DMCtacoma

 

Only really interested in the rack support - they have a tendency to pop on the middle.

 

Have you tried mocking any of this up on a FJ or 4runner?

 

Nope but if you have one I’m interested

 

I have a FJ but am too far away to have you use it for mock up. What I have seen used in the past is to buy the front frame rails from a auto recycler.

 

I need a complete car to make sure everything fits correctly, things are tight under there

 

Makes sense. I will check the fj/4runner forums and see if any of the Socal guys are down.

 

Him and maybe @subzero back in the day? It's does seem to be an east cost thing, but that's where I wheel...

 

There's a graduate level class is suspension design and fabrication in this thread, all that's missing is the math.

 

Maths iz herd. There is lots of good stuff in here!!!

Probably, same here.

 

neither do I

does any of this work on a 3rd gen? If so someone just tell me what to buy.

 

All I see are fancy grills and pizza ovens

 

It should all work on a 3rd gen. From all my research the only real difference that I can see is the rear lower arm bushing has a different bolt diameter. I’ve also heard things about the rack being mounted in a different spot but then others have said it’s the same. I would really like to get a 3rd gen and test fit everything before I say one way or the other

 

www.jdfabrication.com.

sorry about that!

 

Anyone seen a rack break like this before? The slide discussed here may have prevented this, or maybe there is a way to beef up the passenger side rack mount/strap additionally?





Thanks

 

I've seen a similar picture, the slide rack should help.

 

This is why the slide rack double shears the stock rack. The slide also take a ton of force off the stock rack too

 

Is there any purpose in having the rack mounted with bushings, if the slide is mounted solid? Even poly bushing upgrade would flex tons compared to solid. Would it make any sense to also solid mount the rack, or have some sort of solid assembly that holds the rack tight(er), so that the rack and the slide take the deflection load the same? Perhaps I'm overthinking - and the slide is substantial enough to take the majority of the deflection load without tearing the mounts off the frame, as it will take almost all the load if it is solid and the rack is still bushing mounted?

Feedback welcome, correct my train of thought if it needs correcting. Also, for the record, I'm not trying to bash at all, I'm interested in the kit for myself, but hoping to flush out any potential long term issues or gremlins or questions ahead of time.