Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Besides. WTF are you doing jumping the damn thing with super bumps up front? They aren't even enough for a mid travel setup, I've broken several shock uniballs because of this. They compress WAY too much for aggressive driving.

 

Damn, what are you doing with these things!? I'm assuming the pic with the Fox is from a different truck? Have you cycled the suspension with shock in place and no spring to check clearance? Very interested in knowing the root cause.

 

Well I’ll argue with that statement. Been running strong with superbumps for 8 years now. 5 of which on an LT setup driving the piss out of the truck, smashing whoops and jumping it constantly. Hydro bumps engage too early imho when striking the lca, so unless you’re gonna bump off the spindle I think they’re not the best option. But everyone has an opinion.

 

You also spent the time to properly valve your shocks for your application... which most people don’t do.

 

True, I was more going with superbumps are not the cause of that problem. Highly more likely that improper setup caused that as you stated. Like the shock bottoming out before bump is fully compressed

 

It’s probably a difference in LCA’s. With a basic mid travel this was happening to me regularly with super bumps. Couldn’t figure it out. Then one day king questioned my bumps. I spaced them down. Problem gone. Super bumps are great if it’s right. Have them on the wife’s truck. But they are spaced down because of previous experience breaking uniballs and ends.

 

I was going to say I have around 3/8'' of spacers on my superbumps and can still bottom my soft ass shock out lol

 

Yup. Even spaced down we can still bottom hers out too. And it is 100% valved right.

 

Im just throwing a wild ole guess out there, but part of me thinks they heat up from compression/rubbing the lca when bombing whoops/forest roads. After a couple little whoop passes I swear they are softer

 

The shock should never fully bottom out. Need to cycle things to ensure that doesn’t happen. That’s how bad things happen and things break

 

Precisely the entire point of this conversation. How do you setup with super bumps to know you wont bottom? Considering the amount they compress is completely determined by how hard they are hit. Setting the weight of the truck on them certainly wont do it.

 

I’m doing a mid travel front with the jd arms and king 2.5s
I just got some used super bumps, what size spacer did you use to fix the problem?

 

I think we used 1/4" spacers if I recall, maybe 3/8". But its going to be entirely dependent on the lower arms.

 

Thanks, I plan on using stock for now

 

With kings and stock lower arms go 3/8”

 

One thing I would like to add to this convo is with the 2.25 and jd spec coilovers there’s still over an inch of shaft remaining at upper uniball metal on metal.

I had to add a 1/2” spacer to my super bump to keep the upper uniball from maxing out.

IDK what kits are on these trucks or if they cycled suspension but just wanted to throw that info out there.

 

Id bet money if you set the truck down with no springs or bumps you would bottom the shock. Even with Hydros and taking 3/4 inch of uptravel out I can still put mine back to metal on metal just from the frame flex. Thats why I'm not hammering mine too hard until I have that stuff braced up there. Youd be blown away if you saw how much them towers push in simply adding weight, let alone a hard hit.

 

Wheelers bumps need a dual durometer rating. It's been long known they can compress like a pancake with the Allen bolt head becoming the stop and able to revert to original length. You have to exceed spacer recommendations

 

My whole front end blew off!



but seriously, after cutting the towers off it’s shocking how thin they are.

 

I accounted that the bump failed and the only thing left is that lower mounting “puck” That way in the event of total failure you are still safe