Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

.

 

Any reason why you went with nylon instead of metal?

 

They need a little give or it’s going to crack the boss’s out of the frame. The factory mounts aren’t designed to have solid rack bushing

 

I just made my own copy of the king brackets. It covered up those holes which is what I wanted. Then I will weld on some of the 2.5 inch brackets for it. Kind of liked the idea of welding on the brackets to the gussets but too late to change now. No way in hell I'm cutting that bracket off so we rollin with it for now.

It probably would of looked better if I brought the bracket to the bottom of the frame now that I'm looking at it. But oh well.

 

Did you slap it and say “she ain’t goin nowhere.”?

 

Pretty much. Haha. Once I get a kit for charging the shocks I might re-do it. But I haven't driven my truck in 2 months and I'm tired of sharing a car with my wife. So just want to be done. It'll do for now.

 

I have I pretty decent gap on the lower shock mount to the dirt king lowers. I'm assuming there will always be tension on it so it probably won't move. Would you use a spacer to make sure it's snug in the tabs?

 

If you tighten the bolt down does the gap go away?

 

NOT OK IMO. If the tabs are bent outwards now, and tightening the bolt brings them back to parallel and snug on the shock, then fine. But those need to clamp down hard on the shock spacers to prevent movement on the lower eyelet with respect to the bolt. Spring tension from the coil will not just hold it in one place, it will bang itself around and make an awful noise, or worse. Need a spacer at the minimum, or find out if the shocks or the LCAs are out of spec, maybe there is an accidental wrong spacer included with your shocks?

Also, I am under the impression (from my truck anyway) that you might wanna turn the bolt around, get more clearance to the CV boot

 

No the gap doesn't go away when tightening the bolt. I will try to find some grade 8 washers to fill the gap. I figured it probably wouldn't be the smartest to leave it. Maybe the dirt king lower tabs just have a higher tolerance or might of warped a little while welding.. idk.

I don't think cranking down the bolt to fix a gap is the best method as I would prefer to keep a proper torque

 

@Dirt King Fab should be able to tell you what misalignments you need with their lowers. If the tab got bent, that's no bueno.

 

Its on both sides though. So that'd be odd if both were that far off. Has anyone else with dirt king lowers and kings ran into this issue. If so, maybe I just need new misalignment spacers.

 

Are you running their stock length lowers or an LT kit? These are OE replacement shocks, not LT spec, correct?

 

Yeah stock length lowers and extended travel shocks so both should be OE spec..

It's the lowers. My stock lower tabs are 39mm, the king misalignments are right at 39mm. The dirt king tabs are spaced at 41mm. So they are off a little. Not sure if it's a big enough thing to make a big deal about. A little washer to fill the gap should be fine right?

 

is there a build thread for this truck?

 

I haven't started one yet. I might in the future to try to make some connections with people that may be close by. That way we can get together and help each other out on stuff.

 

I’ll buy a set right now…

 

Tight like wedding night

 

So finally got the truck on its wheels. I'm getting this code and my abs light is on. I checked the wire and everything looks fine. I did take out my SAIS system. But it's tuned and shouldn't be causing issues. I can still read the codes in the scanner but no check engine light on.

 

Possibly internally tore the abs wire harness while working. Do a continuity check on both wires on the harness that runs from the sensor up to the uca bucket area.