Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

What lower arms/bushings do you have? Some of the aftermarket bushing widths vary and for that matter the OE are not always the same. Also when you welded the pivots on did you weld the insides of the tabs first? If you put too much heat into the insides you could have warped the new tabs inward.

Also check to make sure the arms aren’t bent, I’ve dealt with that a few times.

also is it exactly 1/8” too tight? If so that’s only a 1/16” on either side which isn’t much. I’d suggest you sand a little bit of material off the bushing faces and see if that gets you there.

 

I’ve never made custom spacers

 

i appreciate everyone's replies. they are stock 3rd gen lower control arms and bushings. pivots were tig welded by a certified welder who made a big deal about controlling the temperature but who knows.

i will take more measurements to try and understand where things are off. also as i mentioned before wouldnt just shimming with washers be the easiest way to go at this point?

 

whoops my bad I’m old so my memory is crap. I could have sworn that early on someone had a kit with lca spacing prob and you whipped up a custom spacer

 

Yes, at this point using washers or machining down the face of the existing spacer would be your best bet.

When I did mine 2 years ago I took a bit off the face of the 1 spacer on each leg of the LCA so it slid together like butter. But I’m lucky enough to have a lathe in my garage.

 

Hey everyone, just dropping by to say we all need to start hounding @81Trekker to build the spindle/upper arm upgrade for us JD long travel guys. Spoke with him briefly last week on the topic. I’m intrigued by the idea. Idk about everybody else!

 

Perhaps some of us have missed it. Could you catch us up?

 

@81Trekker
You already know I’m in. I’ll need something more matched to the rear. I’d like to keep the truck all JD too.

 

I briefly remember this being mentioned. Definitely something I’d be interested in adding down the line now that my truck is JD fab front and rear! So much more bump travel at ride height

 

What would be a upgrade on the UCA, the ones it comes with is already pretty beef and nice.
As for the spindles. That would be interesting. Unless your talking about just going to a horizontal uniball upper type setup. idk. Tired.

 

It would be a vertical uniball that requires new uppers.

 

Would make sense to just keep the existing kit the way it is
And offer another kit that was the “true race kit” like dirt king and LSK and the such do

 

wouldn’t do ya’ much good without a match LCA, a new shock tower and a 10” shock too right ?

 

Dirt King doesn’t have a Tacoma race kit ?

LSk’s 2wd Tacoma race kit doesn’t pull any more travel than JD’s current kit ? Solo is the only one that has managed bigger #’s at 19” w/ 4wd w/ the full XLT set up

 

I wasn’t point out Tacoma
I was pointing out that most companies have a long travel kit
And then a race kit
Sorry for the confusion
And I have a solo kit so I’m familiar with your comment


Edit: for example
Dirt king offers a bolt on long travel kit for Chevy
And then offers a race kit which requires full fab of new shock towers and such and goes to a full fab spindle and bumps off the upper

 

Dirt king for sure offers a Tacoma race kit.



Or maybe I just drive mine like it is.

 

It’s a damn shame how much that non race kit is holding you back but keep your head up and walk tall ...just stop licking the bus windows

 

The lower arm would stay the same, only the upper gets a vertical Uniball. You really can’t get more useable travel out of the kit without going wider. The steering and axles limit the drop out and while you can gain uptravel the truck will become even more of a snow plow at bump. If you are after large travel number race kits and not wanting to stuff the front end everywhere then buy a different platform… the Tacoma is definitely not the best starting point. The 86-94 Toyota pickups are ideal because the arms are mounted closer together and we build the arm rearward from the centerline of the hub so you can’t stuff the front end.

 

Our 86-94 race kits can do this all day long

 

I think changing the upper arm and spindle opens the door to making some much needed geometry changes. Along with hopefully having the ability to bump off the spindle/upper arm. And allowing someone to run a dual rate 10” setup.