Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

rear:
-Icon RXT max height
-Archive HH and yellow bumpstops (haven’t installed yet)
-Bilstein 5160

I don’t know if trimming fenders to match would be even, given they’re cut at different height from factory resulting in different FTG measurements.
Not only is stock suspension forward rake, I believe the stock fenders/bedsides are shaped/cut in a way that has forward rake in them too, even if you lift or level the suspension.
I have seen people trim 2.5” front, 1” rear, that despite taking more off in the front, makes the truck look level/the same and even between front and rear fenders.

I’ll research it more to see what people are doing. I think if I say screw it hit a trail and then under compression the rear hits the bedside inner fender it will probably FUBAR it. it could just need an inch taken off.

Plus it looks goofy without any cut, and the rounded edge prevents being able to run a nice looking edge trim.

I’d guess it needs at least 1” taken off
Could be worth the PITA of doing the cut to start at 1” and re evaluate
Have to tape it, measure/mark, get a jigsaw, cut, paint, make a racket outside

 

See below

 

Perfect. This is what we are doing, just didn’t want to run into any unseen issues.

Appreciate the help!

 

I didn’t realize you had a gen2, much different body lines than my gen3. I would then measure how much uptravel you have either between the frame and bump stop or the amount of shock shaft you have left (whichever is smaller) and reassess from there. With my setup I have about 8.5” uptravel to my bump stop. That’s how I figured I would need to cut the most of the fender. My rear inner fender no longer exists because it’d end up getting ripped out from the tire.

 

Anybody using the Howe PS kit? Is the belt same or different length? PN#? Looked on my belt and all the numbers were rubbed off

 

This is the belt supplied in my Howe kit for a 4.0 2nd gen.

 

it’s different, last time i looked i think it was actually a honda civic part #

 

Has anyone else had a lot of trouble with belt squealing ? I replaced mine a few months ago because it was squealing really bad. Now the new belt is starting to do it too.

 

Based on that number hear is the specs Gates Micro-V Serpentine Belt 7 Rib 85-3/4 Inch K070852 | O'Reilly Aut (oreillyauto.com) No belt is a brand or vehicle model. It just so happens other vehicles may use this belt as well. Knowing that however can help shop for the belt.

 

Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for. Now to prep!

Maybe my belt but sounds like my idlers are two squirrels going nuts. Have you tried replacing the tensioner at any time?

 

2164 is the length in mm, so many belts in that length range will probably work... 2160, 2165, 2170.

The Honda number for the belt is 56992RNAA03 which is a 7PK2170. Bando has one for under $15.

 

idlers and tensioner were all new a few years ago and the squealing came right after the howe kit. first time i noticed it was after washing the truck then over time it just became constant. I changed the belt and it went away for a few months and now it’s coming back.

i know it is the belt because if i spray a belt conditioner directly on the belt the squeal stops instantly

 

Make sure to check the pump mounting. When JD did mine there was a crack developing. If I remember correctly, it is the tab that comes off the timing chain cover. They welded it up for me and I know there was some talk about an additional support bracket being developed.

 

The JD fab LT kit/heim steering/double shear/ 934 cv axles/pivot kit are bullet-proof. Made a world of difference during the weekend at the Marlin Crawler round up in the rubicon. No damage whatsoever. My rear diff and OEM drum brakes not so much. Even Big Mike was impressed to see my rig at Rubicon Springs and took a couple of pictures. Testament to how solid JD fab products are. Helped me get up soup bowl.

 

Check your pulley. Mine came with the pulley not pressed on fully and squealed like crazy. Should be fully seated on the shaft. I have had zero issues since.

 

Redneck balljoint replacement with the arms left on the truck. Worked perfectly. Big jack lifted the arm so the cup was parallel to bottle jack

 

Anything new in the works for JD?

 

Could the inner boots on 934’s be slid down if the hose clamp was loosened?
Im guessing thers a groove or something like oe shafts. I vaguely remember cutting off the stock clamps and re hose clamping on my old setup and didnt have any issues. Whether right or wrong

 

Fully electric Fiat on 35s with "minimal trimming"