Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yup. Full install pictures from when JD Fab did it: https://imgur.com/a/K1ugcpJ

Edit: oh, actually, a shot of the battery isn't in there. Lemme find one in a bit.

 

I saw your truck when it was in the shop. That's how i found out about the new storage bed boxes. I have 2 going in one on each side Battery on the driver ARB twin compressor on the passenger side. Plus a shit load of more work happening..

 

You won't regret it! I moved my ARB twin from the hood to the passenger side using the and the battery to the drivers side in the JD box. The extra hundred pounds over the rear is really welcome.

 

Yeah i have the ARB under the hood now and along with a heavy ass group34 Northstar battery 75lbs.

 

Hell ya. Been waiting for the bedside cubbies. Battery is in the bed. Decent spot but not happy with it.

 

My main reason to getting one of these bed cubbies was for storage honestly. I have some 12v Blue Seas stuff wired in the exact location on the drivers side where these bed cubbies would go, but it's semi-exposed on the backside to the wheel well. Still have fender liners so it doesn't get too junked off, but it's a concern. So this bed cubby would let me cut all that stuff out of the bedside and mount on the front hatch of the bed cubby and keep everything clean. Probably would just keep my recovery gear in the cubby.

Unfortunately, I was going to go with an Anti-Gravity battery up front to prevent my core support from cracking. Still just using a stock sized AGM battery. Last week I just saw I had some tiny cracks forming on the core support under the headlight on the drivers side. I hate knowing I have some issues like this, so I might get the core support replaced this winter and then put the battery in the bed cubby still. If I get the core support replaced, I was going to have it Line-X'd to hopefully add a little strength. Truck has been my daily for 5 years, and I'm finally getting another daily this fall so the mileage will really fall off the truck. My thoughts are between the Line-X, and either a light battery up front or moving it to the rear (I didn't want to offset any weight savings by having to run 20lbs of battery cables), the core support will last a little longer this time around.

 

My battery is in the bed for that reason.
My new battery will be here shortly. I went Dakota Lithium because it has a built in heater. The AntiGravity doesn’t. I live where we have cold winters.
They just released it on the website btw. My batter will go there once installed

 

The new Bed Boxes are on the JD's website.
https://jdfabrication.com/

 

That price isn't bad at all. Might have to do that at some point.

 

It’s $449
$59 for the battery hold down

 

Considering that it’s bent to the shape. It has all grade 8 zinc hardware hinges the latch etc. plus powder coat and the bottom support. Looks to be aluminum also?
Par for the course for these kinds of mods.

 

Oh, I agree with you. Still will likely do it at some point.

 

I logged in around 200 all dirt miles this weekend with the new SUA Kit again in and around Death Valley, the kit still preforming excellent without any issues. I managed to bottom it this time, but I don't feel any harshness when it does. So with that, I don't think it would be neccessary to install any Hydro or Air Bumps. But we'll see how everything performs on my next trip coming up. The Valving of the Bypass's is pretty much dialed straight outbof the box. I didn't make any Bypass Tube adjustments during this trip. So they are the same from the last trip which is Rebound Tube close to all the way Closed, and the two Compression Tubes almost all the Way open.

I lost another rear tail light, and its always the driver side for me. I was fortunate to see it hanging on by the harness so I was able to save it, applied some Gorilla Tape and good to go. Also had a rock fling from the rear tire which hit the side mirror making it shatter, which is a first ever for me.

Some of the terrain from the trip..

 

Drivers side tail and headlight are my bane also.

 

Double check the hardware you are using for the taillights, all of those 10mm's in the tailgate jamb are not the same length some of them are 10mm longer so ie: if you had a lot of them out and threw it back together you may have used the bodywork screws for the taillights. Since they are 10mm longer they extended through the speed clips on the plastic tabs and contact the the body of the taillight so as you tighten them you crack the plastic tab

 

Ill check all that out! And ill probably build up/reinforce the tabs and everything else with some kind of epoxy when I install the new bedsides

 

Question for anyone running the stock length steering clevis and billet tie rod ends.

My power steering rack leaks a tiny bit, but not enough to justify replacing it. I keep blowing through inner tie rods, and I think the power steering fluid is contaminating the inner tie rod grease and contributing to this. Will the clevis and heim joint be less susceptible to this, particularly if I boot the heims with these? https://ca.tmrcustoms.com/collections/newest-products/products/rod-end-boot-seal

 

The bolt clearance to the heim is so close in the clevis that It would probably tear the boot

 

I've been running the stock width billet/heim tie rods for a few months now w/clevis and it's been great.
Just keep up with routine spray on the heims and rinse them good after trails and you should be fine.

Mine also has the tiniest leak but nothing to be concerned about yet. I also did the nylon rack bushings while i was there, big difference over all