Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Is there a better way to make sure the limit straps fold “back” rather than “forwards”? I tried flipping the strap 180 but still flopped forwards. for now I stuck some bungees on but not sure if this needs to be a permanent bungee or if they eventually get “trained” to go back.

 

Get them soaking wet while the weight is on the truck. hopefully they dry with that little kink that will keep it going back towards the kink after full extension....hopefully that makes sense

 

I did have to have Deaver do some custom work to my H70HD pack. With the added weight of the 25 gal auxiliary fuel tank and my already heavy truck. The H70HD pack was stressed out at the rear eye. Causing leaf separation and heavy stress on the rear eye. Jeff at Deavers worked on it was a 4 week project. We got the droop out of the rear gaining back the 1.25" of lift i was looking for. Truck rides much better on the road have not gotten out in the dirt yet i have a couple other things to button up first. Keep in mind my truck is over 6500lbs with both fuel tanks full (46 gal capacity) with me in the cab. No extra camping gear just daily driving weight.
Waiting to hear back from Jeff at Deaver on the new spring rate numbers.

H70HD leaf pack.


New custom pack.


Before and after no more squat. Both pics are with fuel tanks full.

After new custom pack.

 

Weight on truck as in ride height? Or like extra compressed?
Getting it wet sounds easy. I need to wash it after 9 months of fab dust accumulation anyways

 

Ya just as long as the straps are relaxed. Don’t do it with it on jack stands

 

Adjusting Bump Can Angles..

 

What a weird way to write 2.75"

 

How is everyone routing brake lines? I thought I followed the JD instructions but getting tire rub on the inboard tire in turns. Pretty minor but I’d like to avoid any rub entirely. I have the soft line guided vertically with the P clip provided in the kit, and then no clipping points above that to the upright and none to the UCA, just straight to the OEM 90 fitting from the OEM hardline bolted to the frame rail. The 45deg hose end is fairly horizontal coming from the frame mounted 90.
285/75/17 KO2s on 0 offset methods, so not a fat tire.

thoughts or tips?

 

@Blueberry.Taco try rotating that p-clip 180° to push it more in board? I assume that's not a brake line from JD but don't come for me. I chose to connect the braided line to the hard-line. I'd extend your brake line a few inches. Yours looks standard length or whatever it is to fit the brake kit you're using. Mine runs along the UCA zip tied, but I kept the stock hard-line and clipped in.

 

I suppose I could try flipping it, I just followed the JD instructions photo for the clip orientation. I’m on stock brakes with the brake line that came with the kit. i cut off the leg that held the stock hardline on the bracket supporting the abs wire so that option is a little more annoying now.
yea longer would have made sense to tie to the UCA but just trying to make the kit parts work as intended if possible

photo straight from the instructions

 

Kinda hard to tell but it looks like the upper connection is causing the brake line to twist away from the UCA and spindle. Maybe try loosening the upper fitting and get the brake line to relax against the UCA and spindle.

 

Hmm looks like the factory 90 fitting points a totally different direction on yours (maybe a 2nd vs 3rd gen difference?).
I had to bend the bracket a bit because in stock form it pointed right at the UCA double shear gusset wall.
But also I have no idea how you are able to ziptie it to the UCA, i would be bowstringing the softline if i clipped at any place on the UCA... is there a chance JD send a shorter brake line? time to hit them up again i guess....

 

This the final placement of the Reservoir, we clocked the fitting on the Reservoir side a bunch to get the right angle and placement. We'll make more adjustments at the Top when we open the Shock up in a week or so.


We found by cycling everything that the Coil Over Shaft arebtoo short of a stroke and is preventing some droop, we'll be swapping out the shafts with ones that are 1" longer.

Also found that the 3.0 Bypass Body is an 1" longer than it should and is preventing a bunch of Uptravel. Thats an easy fix with just relocating the Upper Bypass mounting Tabs. The Bottom Spacers were also wrong, we could only find one beat up pair to use for mocking everything up.

 

Oh man, you just reminded me that I clocked the upper junction 90 degrees because I think I was running into the issue that you are where I couldn't get the brake line to sit how I wanted. This image is pulled from JD's sight and you can see the different junction orientation.

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Thanks, but yea after fiddling with the clocking a lot more I was actually able to fit it on top of the frame rail for better protection. Maybe I'll be able to add a mud shield over it at some point.

Aha ok, I'll take a look and see if I should do the same.

 

How do you get the nut off the emf joint without it spinning?

 

I would assume allen but nothing seems to fit inside the bolt

 

I want to say I had the steering stop seated on the joint, since the joint is tapered, and then held the steering stop to get the nut off. Then hammer the steering stop after.

 

Very interesting. The guy at the shop thought there was a hex above the adapter but i wonder if thats on newer kits

 

Appreciate the help