Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Maybe he was talking about the uniball replacement for the EMF, not sure. It's been awhile since I've done the work but don't recall any hex so I treated it like a regular ball joint.

 

Yea the new JD joints have a hex
But like was mentioned, for spinning joints, just bind them up to add friction

 

As expected, 4” backspacing clears. This at _full_ lock with the wheel cranked and then the engine power cut and held. It’ll probably still rub at full suspension compression but when I’m worried about that I’ll be aired down anyways.

If I was running a tundra rack I don’t think this would be an issue because I wouldn’t be able to turn that far anyway. Something to keep in mind.

For now I’ll run the 0.75” spacers (I bought some hub centric Bora’s after testing) and see how I like the extra width. It’s pretty wide for a 2.25” kit. If I can deal with the width I'll replace the wheels and if not I'll pull the spacers.

 

Turns out doing exactly that worked perfectly. Clipped a little higher to keep it tucked to the upright higher and at least static checks pass. I’ll keep an eye on it on the next test drives. it does hurt me to stick a m8 through the tapered sway bar end link hole but I couldn’t justify turning an appropriate spacer just to hold a p clip.

 

Pressure. Pickle fork (if you're replacing the joint as it can screw up the boot) or I saw a video where they used a bolt with a nut between the lca and the cradle and backed the nut off to apply pressure. Then any ol ugga dugga will pull it off. May have to adjust setup as you go to maintain pressure.

Oh right EMF, Uh a pickle fork might still work but not sure if it'd damage anything.

 

Like eatsleeptacos and blueberrytaco mentioned i just had to crank the adapter to the side to get some friction on the emf ball. Honestly didn't seem possible with all the grease but when twisting bolt by hand til it got just a little bind and hitting with an impact it popped right off. Thanks

 

Anyone use tc uniball tool on the jd kit? Cant imagine why it wouldnt work with any 1” uniball cupped arm

 

"Suicyco, post: 29989586, member: 210044"]How do you get the nut off the emf joint without it spinning?

Isn't there flats on the top side of the joint? I used a crescent wrench ...Or is that just the upper EMF that I remember

 

I sure hope it works, mine should arrive tmro.
The uniballs should be the same and the DOM they use should all be the same thickness.

 

Nothing I could see on the lower

 

has anyone struggled with alignment

just put my truck on the rack.
I could only get 3 caster RF, 1 caster LF
resulting in pull, uneven

cambers up to like -1
adjusters basically maxed out playing with it

maybe if I pull in the camber a bit, it would move caster

I feel like I didn't have this problem last time I aligned it. So maybe the rack needs calibrating.
Or I'm not using the right adapters.
Gonna be honest, I extended the arms. Didn't feel like grabbing the red ones. Might try that again.

And what's odd is, with LF unable to improve caster,
it's only the RF i hit a pothole with in a shitty area. Opposite side. No obvious signs of issue.

Rack is worn.
Only thing not -Nice- is my $0 oe LCA's rebuild with moog/fart parts
maybe it's time to change that
coil buckets not gusseted but they don't look bent

I heard Moog now has a TTX LCA for $130 either both or each, probably each
not sure if that's a good part
maybe should look at my bushings. Potentially switch to poly. And verify the center holes aren't too big.

Gonna keep driving it and keep screwing with it.

front shocks/struts Bilstein 6112, HD springs (bumper) per their height setting chart (old clip 5 notch) set offset for taco lean
I *think* like 5/4
imagine that wouldn't be related

I was hoping to get 4 caster, up to -1 camber
both sides
wasn't able to. Like I said gonna keep messing with it. Just curious if anyone's been through this, what you maybe figured out, etc.

 

Waaaat?

 

If you haven't bought it yet, don't bother. 1st of all, if you're converting from the EMF joint, you'll need a 3 jaw puller so why buy another tool. 2nd, the TC tool will work fine on the lower arm but the upper arm has weld beads where the cup attached to the arm and this will not allow the tool to sit flat which won't let it pull the uniball in straight.

TLDR just use a 3 jaw puller.

 

I noticed the welds on the upper before purchasing. Figured worst case scenario could grind a little bit of the tool off to clear them and still have most surface area on the cup. Maybe. Or find some pipe the same size and cut a small c shaped piece that would fit between cup and tool.
Seemed like a convenient tool to have but there are probably easier ways to press them in and out in the future that im just not aware of. Borrowed a couple ball joint press's and there was too much length with all the added adapters.
How does 3 jaw puller work in this situation?

 

I am SUPER late to this party but figured I'd respond anyway. The resi can mount directly to the side of the frame. The 90* fitting that goes into the resi does require a slight bit of adjustment but it's pretty easy to do. You can of course, mount the resi in many different ways as long as the hose isn't kinked.

You'll probably notice this is a Dirt King kit but this is a JD spec'd C/O.

Did you make sure that you don't internally bottom out the shock at full compression if you go to a 1" longer shaft? That's not the JD spec'd shock, which has a bit more stroke than the C/Os you have.

 

Got the rear frame brace finished up and mounted. Moving onto mounting the fiberglass bed sides and prepping the axle for the SUA.

For those who have installed the JD SUA kit, what were your pinion angle measurements? I took some prior to disassembly but figured it would be good to compare.

 

The new C/O's are Dirt King Spec that I purchased directly from JD. The Bump Can will be cut off and repositioned. And I think Ian worked out the math that a longer shaft will match the Bypass after we relocate the Bypass Mounting Tabs up 1" from the current stock location.

 

at 6.5 degrees

 

Notching the tool around the weld would absolutely work and that's what I'll do since I now own the tool. Also, I should say that the TC tool is easier to use than a 3 jaw puller, but I needed it to get the EMFs out. Moving forward the TC tool will be my go-to. If you are starting out removing the EMFs like me, pull the zirk first, the rest will be obvious as you do it.

 

has anyone paired the new TTX LCA with their pivots?

I know for regular LCA's supposedly bushing has to be swapped out for a different PN larger hole(s) to accommodate thicker bolts on the pivots
not sure if that applies to the TTX/changes needing made

or if poly is better than that