Fitting 35's on 3" suspension lift

I had to replace the rack on my '01 at about 175k miles. The joints get too hard and can't seal the fluid in. Where is yours leaking?
I put it off too long cause it wasn't leaking much, and of course that just burned out my pump too.
The new rack made the steering way lighter. It felt like driving a new truck again.

 

You need a new rack. I'm only going OEM for both rack and pump if I can help it this time around. My rack doctor rack started leaking in a year and I'm on my second replacement aftermarket pump.

 

well, i got some bad news. your going to have to take the front apart at least 3-5 if not more times to get the gearing set right. Its a huge PITA. You have an e locker so thats a bit easier.

Im guessing something is wrong with the aussie so that its not unlocking or something.

Jeep will be easy to set due to the diff design. Toyota diffs suck ass. And are extremely sensitive to how they are set.

 

when in 4x4 even on dirt there will be binding from front to rear. this is enough to keep the aussi locked up. but still you should be able to turn with just a little more resistance.

 

Thanks guys!

 

I think its leaking out of the top of the reservoir... its getting on the fan and spraying everywhere, and its on both my control arms and external reservoir for the coilovers.

In 2WD its perfectly fine though. I mean perfectly fine. The rack did pop before when steering, but I figured it was just a bad bushing somewhere. Was gonna wait do throw some new bushings in when I repaint the skids.

Well sheyt. I thought I could measure it once and be good to go. Yeah, pulling it out to put the locker in was a PITA.

Its fine while i'm moving, a little harder but its locked up front so its expected. I just don't see how my front axle assembly (mostly the CVs) being locked would keep the wheels from turning while stopped. I understand how they work in motion perfectly fine, but while stopped i don't see how it'd be any different.

Edit: I put my roommate's 295/70r17s on and they honestly felt the same steering.

 

Gonna have to refer to this page later...

 

x2 on 20ga

 

x2 on 20ga. again...

 

While turning the wheels actually want to spin some. this is amplified if you have less backspacing

 

Weird. 4.5" not enough?

 

Hell no. That's oem.

3.5" minimum. Id go for 3".

And yes. You'll end up taking that diff apart a lot. You'll have to et the pinion depth and back lash right. And you'll never get it right the first time.

 

Really? Huh. TRD Pro fake beadlocks are 3.75" yeh? Guess I might need to do some wheel shopping, or buy a spacer.

And thats good to know. Gonna judge it when we do my buddy's, might just have it professionally done, just so damn expensive.

 

Worth it. Warranty at ECGS. my front just gernaded and I did my own gears. Going ECGS next.

Idk anything about the Trd pro wheels. Most likely you'll need spacers.

 

Good thickness for the tub?

 

Most people have used 14 - 20 gauge.

 

Neighbor gave it to me. Have no idea what size it is...lol...noob, i know

 

http://www.mesteel.com/cgi-bin/w3-msql/goto.htm?url=/info/carbon/thickness.htm

 

Still dont get it...haha..i think its about 1/16

 

If that's true it's around 16 gauge according to that chart. Plenty thick, but will be harder to form into the firewall compared to 20 gauge. And it looks like Monte didn't opt to use that thickness for that reason, and he knows his shit better than me.