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FJ80, a good buy in today's market?

Discussion in 'Toyota Trucks & SUVs' started by Ozark_RegCab, Aug 20, 2021.

  1. Aug 25, 2021 at 10:14 AM
    #81
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Most Improved Member

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    If my 1st gen Tacoma (my DD and weekend warrior toy) has taught me anything over the last 5.5 years, it's that Toyotas are reliable AF for that kind of double duty but you still have to pay to play. And that's what scares me about older LCs...it's pricey enough trying to keep up with my Tacoma's constant needs, I would want to be in a more comfy financial position to play that game with an older Landcruiser that needs some love. Unless I was strictly going to commute in it, but where I live an LC is not exactly practical for that.

    My gut says to let this one pass but that's just me.
     
  2. Aug 25, 2021 at 10:17 AM
    #82
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sliders, lift, 275/70/17
    Yeah I have a really short commute so I can just bike if the LC is jacked up for a week getting tinkered with. I'd mainly use it for grocery runs and the occasional weekend trip out to the hills.
     
    eon_blue[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Aug 25, 2021 at 10:31 AM
    #83
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok below is a better organized view of all the issues they found. Sorry for the repeat.

    Oil:BrakeFluid.jpg Ps:Coolant:TransFluid.jpg Leaks:Bushings.jpg Steer:Brakes.jpg UJoints.jpg
     
  4. Aug 25, 2021 at 10:39 AM
    #84
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    5520 E Sprague Ave, Spokane Valley, WA 99212
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    93 80 Series LC & 96 Turbo V6 Taco 4WD
    I've done a mod or two
    @Ozark_RegCab I don't always throw in maintenance (fluids, brake pads, and whatnot) But these are receipts for parts I've purchased for general upkeep in the past year. Every other year follows a similar trend just different parts obviously. There are places you could skimp or just not fix, but I choose to keep everything as nice and new as possible.


    1.jpg
    2.jpg
    3.jpg
    4.jpg
    5.jpg
    6.jpg
    7.jpg

    I can't find the receipt but I know my steering joints cost $95 shipped all together and the new steering stabilizer was $85. The new shocks all around were $30 a piece.
     
    Ozark_RegCab[OP] likes this.
  5. Aug 25, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #85
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sliders, lift, 275/70/17
    Hmm ok so it looks like around $1500 in parts if I wanted to tackle it all at once. I'd probably start with the engine/cooling related PM first and leave the suspension and brakes for later. It wouldn't be a bad idea to change the fluids for the diffs and transfer case either I imagine..

    Also none of the installs seem that hard with basic tools, except fot maybe the spring install.. are there any on there you'd say are a big PITA?
     
  6. Aug 25, 2021 at 12:39 PM
    #86
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    Rear main seal will be expensive.
     
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  7. Aug 25, 2021 at 12:44 PM
    #87
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    I always like to see an 80 resurrected and brought back to life, I hope it works out for you but I think this will be a bigger money pit than just estimates. I do hope it works out and get the proper tools and download the FSM from the Mud forums and follow that exact as it has saved me guess work on repair sequence. I still spend time on the Mud forum searching and help.
     
  8. Aug 25, 2021 at 9:00 PM
    #88
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure it'll end up being more expensive than I think. But I plan to space it out over 6 months to a year. As long as there's no rust I think I can wrap my head around it.

    Just out of curiosity, do you think FZJ80s will keep appreciating like over the past two years, or will it go down with the rest of the used car prices? Some people over on Mud told me the whole LC market is a passing fad, especially for >200k mile examples. Not that I'm seeing it primarily as an investment, but it'd still be good to know.
     
  9. Aug 26, 2021 at 5:36 AM
    #89
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    The market for these are always fluctuating. I got mine at a low end 10 years ago, I"m sure in today's market it would of got $15k for it so anything can happen.
     
  10. Aug 26, 2021 at 5:49 AM
    #90
    Dbarffish

    Dbarffish Well-Known Member

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    Why was the radiator replaced? It could be that there was an overheating event and this may have caused a head gasket failure.
     
  11. Aug 26, 2021 at 5:54 AM
    #91
    Dbarffish

    Dbarffish Well-Known Member

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    . I bet (XJ sales)/(FJ 80 sales) is a large #.
     
  12. Aug 26, 2021 at 5:55 AM
    #92
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Apparently their mechanic just told them it was in bad shape and would have to be replaced.
     
  13. Aug 26, 2021 at 6:03 AM
    #93
    Dbarffish

    Dbarffish Well-Known Member

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    If you are going into this with money concerns at the get go then I would say get something else. My opinion. I have an old XJ and they are pretty inexpensive. As a DD a LC is not ideal. What happens if you had an accident? All that money to fix it up is down the drain. But I really like LC and have myself looked at one to fix in the past so I get the appeal. XJ is a pretty good DD with the 4.0 and being so light.
     
  14. Aug 29, 2021 at 9:08 AM
    #94
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So despite discretion being the better part of valor, I did in fact end up getting the truck..

    I hear all the warnings about getting into a moneypit, and maybe I overpaid at 8k, but I felt like this was my one chance to own a solid axle LC, and I'll just have to live with the consequences of my decision.

    I picked up an extra shift as a research assistant, and I plan to use that extra 500 a month solely for PM and "restoration." I'll start with the brakes and cooling system and go from there.
     
    skidooman likes this.
  15. Aug 29, 2021 at 9:11 AM
    #95
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @stevesnj I saw you said earlier a HG replacement could run 5-7k.. wouldn't it be more cost-effective to just replace the engine at that point?

    I assume you're including labor and WYIT parts, but I thought a top end rebuild would be more in the range of 1.5-3k on a 1fz including machining, especially if you do the install yourself.
     
  16. Aug 29, 2021 at 9:12 AM
    #96
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    Good luck with it and welcome to the club! Brakes just use blanks and good pads, flush with high temp synthetic fluid. Get the best aluminum radiator you can afford and use Toyota red fluid, new hoses, OEM thermostat. Download the FSM from the Mud forums. It will prevent guessing. Search a lot on the Mud forums, it will save time posting something new.
     
  17. Aug 29, 2021 at 9:15 AM
    #97
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    You could just replace the engine with a rebuilt one for that money. Doing it yourself with the proper tools and head machining would be under $1,500 possibly.
     
  18. Aug 29, 2021 at 9:29 AM
    #98
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    Welcome to the club. I'm here and on mud under the same username. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
     
    stevesnj likes this.
  19. Aug 29, 2021 at 10:04 AM
    #99
    Ozark_RegCab

    Ozark_RegCab [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the welcomes.

    The radiator in it is a TYC unit (not OEM), which isn't ideal, but I'm pretty hesitant to switch it out since it is new.

    I'm just trying to figure out how much PM to do without going overboard, and also what jobs it wouldn't be effective to attempt on my own right now.

    In any case, I wanna start with the cooling system. I was thinking of sticking to a coolant flush and thermostat replacement for now, but if there's any parts you listed above or others (PHH, etc.) you think are essential to replace along with this, I'll look into that too.

    After that and changing the rest of the fluids/air filter, I was thinking a compression test, new valve cover gasket, and plugs/wires.

    I know the suspension and steering are tired, but I can live with that for now. Any advice on the order of operations I should take in terms of PM with this cruiser? Let's say you had $1500 to do as much as you could..
     
  20. Aug 29, 2021 at 10:25 AM
    #100
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    The TYC is actually a good radiator. Had great reviews on MUD. Do the PHH IMMEDIATELY, delete the rear heater, do the heater control valve. Those are all high failure items. Make sure your trans fluid is clean, if it isn't give it a few drain and fills until its mostly clean. Good starting points. Of course if the compression test is bad, maybe just skip all that.
     

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