FJ80 Axle Swap w/9.5 E locker ABS issue

Loooong story short...
My truck is weird and awesome and I love it however I am down this crazy rabbit hole of how far is too far when building a truck. I have upgraded everything from the stereo to the axles. Literally a few weeks ago we installed with the help of the guys at Rock Rash Performance in NC.

We installed a FJ80 axle with a Ruff stuff back brace , Ubolt eliminators, 4’ Anti Wrap/Trac-bar.
Found a 2006 LC100 series E locked 3rd member and regeared the whole truck with Nitro 4.88 gears and stuck the Nitro 32 spline full float chromoly axle shafts and hubs and their flange on the axle. The idea was if you were going to do it only once how would you do it. The answer was this, for me at least. The brakes are great as I have 80 series disc brakes in the rear that are far superior to the old factory drum brakes before. It all drives great, no axle wrap no weird noises. It’s all holding together well except I have no ABS and speedo which means no cruise control. I wouldn’t care about the speedo except, well cruise control is nice. I just returned from a 2 week trip on the new axle with no cruise and it sucked!!

I am hoping someone here has some sort of advice as to perhaps how to make these two systems talk. I have the factory 80 series abs sensors from a 1997 landcruiser installed in the hubs on the axle as they should be and have fitted the plugs as we assumed they would plug and play if the plugs fit which they did minus two small little tabs I removed with a Dremel easily. The truck instantly throws a check engine code and abs light is on as well when you turn the truck on. I have plugged in the factory sensors and it will keep the code off until I move however the ABS light is on the entire time regardless of being plugged into the Landcruiser sensors or the Tacoma sensors. If anyone here has done this before as well please I am all ears!

 

Check the ohms of the stock sensors vs used/new ones. You may need a resistor

 

I have ohm’d it out and both sensors are working. It appears the 80 series runs off a 5v system and the Tacoma

$17 is 12v 13W adhesive polyimide heater plate 70mm

is 12v.

 

You ever get this figured out? Have some 80-series axles sitting in my garage right now and a 1996 4Runner I would like them under eventually.

Also - what front suspension and steering setup are you running and how is the rear setup? Anything special done to account for the axle offset?

EDIT - just re-read your post - are you still IFS front?

 

Yeah I sorted it out by replacing it with a Currie rock jock 60 with Toyota ends for a 4Runner and everything plugs in and I have abs, a speedometer, working odometer and the transmission shifts properly again. Those are all of the problems I had with the FJ80 axle under my truck.
However to answer some of your questions.
I am still IFS up front happily for now. With no immediate plans to change that. While I wheel this thing a ton I don’t want to invest another $10k in the front end in shocks, bumps, links and everything else to do the swap properly
IMO but that being said I’ve got a roll cage coming for it and have always thought about budget building on leaf springs at some point with my son as a project. But we shall see.
No need to do anything for the axle offset! A lateral change as long as it isn’t drastic has zero ill effects on anything except you have to go to a slim line muffler I am running a flow master 70 series that doesn’t have too much noise over stock as I prefer a quiet truck

 

To get a working speedo you need to install speed sensor in the transfer case output, that'll fix that portion. As for the ABS, you'll still have the code unless you have 4 working sensors. I'm not sure how to get the FJ80 sensors to work with tacoma sensors, I've not seen them side by side to see, but maybe possible to put tacoma the tacoma sensors in the FJ80 axle.

 

yes and no. I have a 2012 so you can’t just supply the ABS controller for a speedo like the pre 2012 tacos. The FJ80 system is totally different tone and voltage. It counts teeth versus measuring magnetic resistance which is what the Tacoma Halls effect system does. It formulated an equation based on each side of the axle turning to provide speed and shift points to the canbus system.

there are a few out there still trying to make this work... I don’t see where the juice is worth the full float squeeze IMO

a raspberry pie would be needed to changed the voltage signal input from the axle sensors and communicate to the system what the rear is doing. Again doesn’t seem worth it to me and why I got away from the FJ80 full float life

 

Little bump to see if anyone out there has figured anything out abs wise for a Tacoma-Lc axle

 

Stay away haha.

 

A bit of a revival, but I'm looking into getting an FJ80 rear for my 2006 prerunner (4WD swapped with FJ case) since one popped up locally and I've been thinking about it casually for a while. I don't care about ABS since I leave it unplugged for winter safety anyways, but will the speedometer and cruise control still work without the rear wheel speed sensors?

 

Yes, if you run the sensor from the t-case speed output.

 

I ended up getting the axle, so I'll give it a go. I did find a thread with someone who came to that conclusion in case anybody else finds their way here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-tacoma-speedometer-fix-after-axle-swap.830227/