Flatbed Information Thread

We're actually going to be building another bed soon and our plan is a steel frame with aluminum boxes and an aluminum deck to save weight. Send me another message and we can discuss some more options.

 

Done

 

Update: drop down sides finally have the hinges I wanted from Australia zink coated and welded well it the steel. Plastic bushings make a snug fit. Just neeed to PC or paint and latches. Needed to add weight for my expo springs each side is 40lbs also didn’t need any hardware found my old t30 torx bolts from my old bed

 

I did similar with the hinges on my sideboards, with the biggest difference of having the pins facing the other direction. My thoughts in this were keeping the sides kind of trapped when they are in the up position between the hinge pin, and the headache rack so they don't slide off the back, and be able to take the tailgate off and still drive when needed.

 

That was the initial idea, but Clarence with the body unfortunately very slim areas to move them back and off so I had to do what I had to do … Connecting clamps to the headache rack, are lockable. In theory, I could just swap as side and flip the pin the other direction …. But one side is cut out specific for a tiedown point

 

Came across another option I haven't seen mentioned here yet from nextjumpoutfitters:

https://expeditionportal.com/next-jump-flatbed-trays-are-lightweight-and-affordable/
https://www.nextjumpoutfitters.com/...-mid-size-regular-aluminum-flatbed-truck-body

 

Has anyone seen any updates for these?

We had a couple "new" players but none seem to have made it to market yet.

 

Did this build happen?

 

It didn't actually. The guy found a great deal on an OEV bed so he went that way.

 

Hi all, I’m welding up an aluminum flatbed for my 2023 SR DCSB; I got 1/4” aluminum diamond tread plate and 1.5x2.5x0.125” rect tube for the structure underneath and need to do the beam or attachment for the frame. I’ll be using the extra tread plate for the skirt and mimicking a CM bed style. My question comes in with the fuel fill; I was hoping to put it up and in between the headache rack and the cab with one of the U-bolt designs. I hear mentions of the 4Runner fuel filler; does that help with getting it over there or how do I bend/fit the tube over there? I presume it’s rigid?

 

Fuel fillers don't need to be rigid. Many use sections of fuel-rated rubber hose not all that different from radiator hose.

This is in the standard ford-issued upfitter kit for Ford f250 cab chassis:
https://titanfueltanks.com/cab-chas...0gLHJDEFRdWM7EtufEcqGqjyuxMB9Ay59-A3Uvi9ewQJa

Biggest thing is just to pitch both hoses towards the tank, never away from it.

 

@Chux

 

The biggest problem i ran into is that the filler ended up being much lower and closer to the tank. Ended up cutting down the factory fuel filler and welding a hose barb onto it, then used a fuel filler hose to connect. Worked pretty good, just a tight squeeze.

Used this, or something close:
https://www.millsupply.com/unleaded-fuel-filler-neck-black-cap-reduces-81937.php?p=324374

 

Just some photos of how versatile the flatbed is. Mines still going strong and really like having a cap with a floor that slides on and off really easily.

going from hard trail day, no bed sides to get stuck up against trees



To loading scrap metal (this was the body off of a 4Runner from a buddies parts car)



To camping for a weekend.

 

Where did you order your MITs from? I priced one locally and it was pretty pricey. The dealer is also famous for massive markups on stuff though.

 

Purchased through Mule Expedition Outfitters Hq in Issaquah, Washington. Installed in Tualatin, Or., (no sales tax).

 

Step 1 done.

 

This is so badass