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Flex-a-Lite 678 Install in 2007 PreRunner

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Oldie2007, Aug 28, 2018.

  1. Sep 21, 2018 at 3:53 PM
    #21
    Oldie2007

    Oldie2007 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A little something every chance we get.
    Son of a gun, what a damn good way to do it! I've used spade and lugs for decades, and had never run across such a thing. And old school said "solder it"! When I get around to replacing that relay, since the case is gouged (but there is nothing wrong with it), I will find me another connector, and do it "right"! I actually liked just sticking the tinned wire in there better than what I did in the end. Thanks, and at least it's working great for now.
    And, NO, there is not ONE mention of where or how the connector is used in the instructions. In fact, it was caught inside the heat seal seam of the component bag - I barely found it.
     
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  2. Sep 21, 2018 at 4:08 PM
    #22
    Oldie2007

    Oldie2007 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A little something every chance we get.
    And since I just ordered that connector I wanted for the fan power, the cable clamps I wanted, and some more heatshrink, I will post a "corrected" amendment, or maybe just clean this whole thread up. Thanks again.
     
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  3. Sep 21, 2018 at 4:24 PM
    #23
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    The proper name for that piece is an ATC blade fuse tap.
     
  4. Sep 25, 2018 at 6:01 PM
    #24
    Oldie2007

    Oldie2007 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A little something every chance we get.
    NOTE: Your description is that it is a FUSE blade
    AH, again, enlightenment, young grasshopper. It is a FUSE BLADE adapter, NOT a RELAY blade adapter. Note the bends on the adapter, which is why I was sure I had to solder and use it the other way under the relay. Do they know something we do not? It is possible! I'm going to research the Fuse Block, the AC fuse is listed as #1. Does it switch with the switch? Who the heck knows. I will when I get my meter out. And before I update this build BETTER, and my thread, I will finish the research. GOD, I LOVE THIS PLACE!
     
  5. May 20, 2020 at 3:43 PM
    #25
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Great write up Kurt:cheers:
     
  6. May 20, 2020 at 4:08 PM
    #26
    Oldie2007

    Oldie2007 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A little something every chance we get.
    Thanks man, I had forgotten about this. Like only a short time into TW world! Turned it into a Phase in the Digest, and thought I killed it!
     
  7. Dec 8, 2022 at 11:46 AM
    #27
    Titanx85

    Titanx85 Well-Known Member

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    How well did this work? Curious about the performance over time or if there were any issues down the road.
     
  8. Dec 8, 2022 at 6:13 PM
    #28
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    I am curious about the coolant temps in the Texas summers, while towing a 4K trailer, uphill.
     
  9. Dec 8, 2022 at 7:22 PM
    #29
    fb40dash5

    fb40dash5 Well-Known Member

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    The controller it comes with (what OP put in) is unfortunately basically crap. The controller fails, and so do regular 1/4" spade terminals on the power/motor leads. (I learned the latter after upgrading the controller that came with the kit on my 1st gen, back when the better one still used spade terminals) Their newer (part # 31165) controller has been working on my truck for like 4 years now, though.

    I had a few of OP's same thoughts when I installed mine this time. I got a Metripack 630 connector so I didn't have to hard-wire the motor to the controller. I also mounted my controller to the top driver's corner of the shroud, because there's plenty of room & why not. I also got a wild hair earlier this year, and discovered Toyota sells pigtailed terminals that fit in the fuse block, so I added one for one of the spare Jcase fuses under the hood (they have power run to them, but nothing on the load side) because I've melted fuse holders with these in the past.

    Electrically, it's a PITA to get a good ignition & A/C trigger under the hood. If you wire the A/C trigger to the clutch circuit it'll cycle the fan along with the compressor clutch, which is not great. And the only good ignition trigger I found under the hood was one of the IGN relays, which means the fan pops back on 30 minutes after parking it when the relay reenergizes to run the leak detection pump. The solution for the former is to tap the A/C button light, which has a wire from the HVAC head. I haven't followed through changing mine yet, but there's also a wire in one of the connectors above the glove box that should be a 'clean' ignition hot.

    I've been happy with mine though, cools fine & the A/C stays cold at low speeds. I will say the motor on the one in my 1st gen died... maybe 7-8 years after I installed it, and the motor was kinda expensive as electric fans go. But fan clutches don't last forever & aren't that cheap either.
     
  10. Dec 8, 2022 at 9:47 PM
    #30
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    @fb40dash5 I’m not seeing a radiator coolant reservoir in the OP’s pics. Did he eliminate it? I see a hose from the neck that looks like it’s routed down to the ground.
     
  11. Dec 8, 2022 at 9:57 PM
    #31
    Titanx85

    Titanx85 Well-Known Member

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    It's the metal tube on the passenger side fan shroud mount and the hose connects on the bottom of it.
     
  12. Dec 8, 2022 at 11:35 PM
    #32
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    Aha, the shiny cylinder. Missed that. Tnx.
     
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