fluid film on rust??

Common practice if your going to cut up a moose with a chainsaw to switch and flush with veg oil. With the right angle in the water while quartering you can throw a rooster tail of water pretty high.

This time of year not worried about bear, they are pretty much lights out for the winter. However porcupines will climb under and on to the frame and love to chew wiring. My concern is attracting the damn porkies, they seem to be attracted to the strangest things.

I do like the heat shield around the cat idea.

 

You have to buy the 'pro kit' as the wands only attach to the upgraded gun? Correct?

 

Thanks, thats what I thought.

 

Oil rots rubber--period. It does not matter if it's dinosaur oil or vegetable oil. Silicon based lubricants are safe for rubber, but anything oil based in my opinion should not be applied to rubber.

Just my experience... I had a can of PAM cooking spray leak inside of an action packer which I stowed away. A year later the oil rotted a hole in the Action packer.

 

I learned this the hard way.

Now I have a dam kid running around from a one night stand.

Dam you Crisco!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

^

 

My guess would be that it was the propellant in the can that ate through the storage container. Pam is canola oil and grain alcohol.

It is good to ask the question but I guess I'm not too concerned. It's something I hadn't even considered but perhaps could cause a problem.

What about all the rubber boots filled with petroleum based grease, as in every ball joint ever created? CV joints? Rubber seals on U-joints, rubber seals on practically all applications? In fact, I sprayed directly into each rubber sway bar bushing on the front of my truck with bar and chain, just in case they were causing the squeek I was hearing. I've done this numerous times on other vehicles over the years as well and have never had to replace sway bar bushings.

Is there anyone out there who has expereinced any kind of rubber deterioration on their vehicle due to oil contamination? I'd like to hear about it.

 

^ great points and you're probably right. After thinking it about it some more... I think the answer is that most of the rubber on our vehicles is a synthetic rubber. For example, after consulting a textbook on chemistry it appears that many of the rubber hoses we see used in automotive applications are actually neoprene based which is a synthetic rubber. The book goes on to explain that most of the insulation on the electrical wiring in the engine bay is neoprene based. Also, the doors and hood seals appear to be EPDM based ( a synthetic rubber ).

 

Not sure if I posted this or not in here so here it is.

Sprayed the entire sample can of fluid film on the fully rusted frame of my 1997 Explorer. 4 months later I see no difference between coated and non coated areas. Frame is fully rusted w/no flakes/holes/dimples like our Yota frames tend to rust. The Ford frames seem to get covered in rust and then stop.

My take.... Not needed on my Ford, but maybe my Yota.

 

Man that is a bummer. Fluid film was looking better all the time. After reading many posts it looks like people are having to apply it every year. It's not cheap. I thought it was a one time process. That would be the greatest benefit in my eyes but if it doesn't last, why spend all the money? My truck will have to be the test mule for bar and chain oil I guess. I should take some pic's so people can see what it looks like.

 

I got a sample can and sprayed it on my hitch ball and some areas inside the front wheel wells on the frame. They all look the same as before and the fluid film is completely gone (visually and touch). It may still be working it's magic?

 

That seems to be what I found just now too. It makes sense that a higher quality oil resistant rubber would be used throughout a vehicle considering there are so many places that may eventually be exposed to oil. I'm thinking LCA's in older vehicles with oil leaks. Although, I usually get into trouble when I start assuming things.

 

Yeah it does wear off, and would need re-applied. And there claim is not that it magically makes rust disappear. It's that it stops it from continuing to rust, and protects from anything else that might come into contact.

I guess this all depends on if you want to get under there and do all the prep work for paint, and then paint. Or if nothing is in bad shape just apply the FF and should be protected through atleast the winter months.

 

I don't have any before pics, but every square inch of the frame was surface rust. Luckily, no perforation or heavy scaling. After the 5-step process I described in this thread, this is the result. Notice the green stuff on the inside of the frame, that's the Eastwood, which I was really impressed with. In the end, yeah its a losing battle, but I'll have peace of mind all through the winter until its time to do it again!

 

Dirt sticks to bar and chain oil like baby shit to a blanket. , still not getting that one

 

Isn't that the point though? The old school method was to oil the frame and take a drive down a dusty road to suck the dirt into it.

 

Okay, I've got the pictures of my truck with bar and chain oil applied, and pic's of a local 2008, two years newer with half the mileage and no undercoating protection. How do you post one post with multiple links to different pic's? I've got to figure that out. The bottom line, my truck was from MA and is leaps and bounds better than the local 08 in terms of rust, even though the 08 is two years newer with half the mileage. After seeing local vehicles like this one, this is what provoked me to try to protect what I've got.

 

I'd like to see the pics. You can use Photobucket or upload to your TW gallery is even easier IMO. Then just copy and past links in reply.

 

Okay, here goes. This is a pic of the front left frame rail of my truck. All dirt and crud, not cleaned and no plans to clean anytime soon. I spayed it about a month ago with bar and chain oil.

Here is the same pic of the local 2009 truck, three years newer with 60k mileage.

Here is a shot of my 2006 with 100k at the right rear tire, looking toward the front.

Here is a shot of the local 2009 with 60k, same location.

Here is my 2006 under the cab on the left side.

Here is the 2009 local truck same pic with 60k mileage. This one is scary! I've seen a local 05 with 100k that had a hole in the floor big enough to stick your hand in at this location! That truck also had a new frame under it. Rusted so bad Toyota had to replace the frame. I

I've got comparisons of the rear end housings as well. Those are on the next clip.

This is what one coat of bar and chain looks like. It ain't pretty but I think it looks better than the dry local 2009 with no protection.

 

^ that's pretty impressive.