Flywheel stuck on crankshaft

Hi All...

I'm brand new here and am seeking answers/advice for a friends 2003 Tacoma 2WD, 4 cyl, manual trans truck (200K miles). I searched, but couldn't find what I need. I'll try to be as brief as possible, but there's a lot to tell...apologies in advance.

When the truck was cold and moving in reverse, it would make a screeching sound. When put into first gear and driven forward, it made a clicking sound, but would stop after a few minutes.

The truck was drivable and is currently at her local Toyota dealership. I spoke with the mechanic a short time ago. When the truck got to them it was making a knocking noise while moving forward in first gear and also while in reverse (this seems similar to my friends recollection). They removed the trans and everything up to the flywheel looks normal...throwout & pilot bearings, pressure plate, clutch etc. They removed the bolts from the flywheel and it spins independent of the crankshaft, but it will NOT come off of the crankshaft. They have used brute force + pry bars all to no avail. The mechanic said it may have a thrust bearing/washer issue..."almost like something has mushroomed in the flywheel not allowing it to come off of the crank." He went on to say that he has never seen this happen before (a 23 yr. Toyota mechanic).

Toyota seems to think it's a catastrophic failure and has quoted my friend $10K for a new motor or a $7K used motor with 200K miles. Both of those options are a lot of money and aren't viable for my friend.

I'm pretty mechanical, but the truck and I are not near to each other. Please enlighten me as to what may be causing this if you've had a similar experience.

Thank you in advance...

Gary

 

Welcome to TW…. It spins freely with the bolts removed..I’ve never seen the end of a crank mushroomed

 

Correct...Per the mechanic, he removed 8 bolts and the flywheel spins, but will not come off of the crankshaft. Thank you HondaGM

 

Right now, the job is an exploratory surgery of sorts at their hourly rate. How much is too much? The fact that she went straight to the dealership is already too much IMO...I think she said for an additional $500 they would put it to back together and send her on her way. I'm seeking info as to what the DIY experts here think it may be and should she opt out of the dealership now and have a reputable independent Toyota repair shop in the Las Vegas area start anew...

 

Maybe somebody will chime in that’s had the same problem…just wondering why are they wanting to get the flywheel off ?

 

I have no idea?
Is there any way it’s stuck the the pilot bushing?
I don’t see how, but who knows?

 

Is the pilot bushing in the crank?

 

Never done one on a 1st Gen.

I hate to tag him, as he is a busy man.
But I bet @gearcruncher would know.

 

That's a good question...

If there is a thrust bearing or washer issue that the mechanic eluded to, would it be detectable from behind the flywheel?

 

There is a Thrust bearing in the engine.
I assume he is wanting to check end play at the crank?

 

I don’t know the answer to that unless the bearing is pressed in from the back of the flywheel… if he’s talking about the pilot bearing

 

They are usually internal to the engine and sit against the main caps.
But there again, I’m used to Chevy and Honda engine. I doubt Toyota is any different though.

 

Oh ..so your thinking the thrust bearings..

 

Im not thinking anything.
I’m assuming things though (dangerous)
Based off the statement below.
OP Said thrust bearing.

I said throw out bearing?

You need the flywheel off to check thrust bearing play.
As well as the oil pan and harmonic balancer.

If the shop is charging hourly…….yikes

 

If there was in fact a thrust failure, could the extent of the damage be seen by dropping the pan and unbolting the crankshaft with the flywheel still attached? Would a failure of this kind warrant a new engine?

 

Crank needs to be in the engine.
Or least, that’s the only way I know to do it.
Thrust washer failure is not too common.
But manual transmissions suffer from it “more”.
Each time you push the clutch in, you are placing a load against the crank.
That’s why it’s really, really, really important to never ride the clutch pedal.

 

2003 2.7L has 10 flywheel bolts. If he really only removed eight…


Or maybe the pilot bearing failed, and / or the input shaft bearing on the transmission, and the pilot “nose” on the crankshaft flared out into the center bore of the flywheel?

Worse case, if a new pilot bearing still fits the bore, and the transmission input shaft is OK, one could put a new clutch in without refacing or replacing the flywheel, so long as it isn’t terribly burnt and hot-spotted.

 

This is the one of the strangest I have ever heard .

I have pulled transmissions where the pilot bearing was in pieces .

I can`t think of anything that would mush room the end of the crank .

Not causing major clutch issues as well .

There is some type of burr on the crank keeping the fly wheel from coming off a few minutes with a carbide burr and die grinder. Problem solved . Fabricators look at problems in a much different way then mechanics .

The real question what caused it in the first place.

Best of luck.

 

Thank you all for the input thus far...

I think the comments that have been made about there being a problem in the pilot bearing/bushing area make sense to me. I can envision a problem in that area on the trans side of the flywheel that is keeping the flywheel from coming off of the crank. For something to have failed internal to the engine yet the truck was still running and driving is a lot harder for me to wrap my head around. The flywheel spins, but will not come off...it's not like it lost its end play and is jammed into the back of the block...but,

If something failed that sets the endplay, is the crankshaft only able to move towards the rear of the truck, or would there be another indicator of this failure on the front of the crankshaft...pulley's, seals etc? How much could the crank actually move in either direction?