FN Overlander Wheels spec A and B , show em if you got em

Thank you! I'll send you a message about the Five Stars in just a moment.

 

I haven't done anything about the clear coat and that will likely be something I may need to deal with down the road. The set of rings that I refinished were on a set that I sold, not my personal set. I've only got one small rash on my personal set which isn't big enough yet to warrant fixing.

The factory clear is GARBAGE. Mine started flaking off before they were even two years old. I haven't had a problem with oxidation of the aluminum from where the clear has failed and in my experience most of my raw aluminum parts (not on the Tacoma but on another vehicle) haven't had oxidation issues, well, not big ones. They get a little dull but not really what I'd call formal oxidation and it polishes back to mirror finish with a little Meguires metal polish.

All that said, when I need to refinish my set (either due to the factory clear failing or more rock rash) I may throw a light coat of clear on there.

 

One of our awesome customers has quite a collection of Tacomas, and he picked up multiple sets of Overlanders (note that the wheels aren't bolted onto the vehicles yet in some of the pictures he sent us, as he was still getting an idea of which wheels he wanted on each truck).

 

360 degree view of a 17x8.5" Overlander Spec B in graphite gunmetal with machined trim (the actual color might appear slightly darker due to variances in studio lighting and screen / graphic card settings).

 

@JdMeF9SiR2

If these come with color matched center caps I'm in.

 

Thank you!

All of the Overlanders come with color matched caps (as of 2022). Previously we included FNW caps (or at one time we were stocking OEM TRD caps as well), but we now include plain, color matched caps with all of the Overlanders.

 

Trying to determine if this offset will work with my 4th gen 4runner. 3" lift with aftermarket UCAs. Currently with the 5th gen trail wheels with 285/70/17 until I decide what I'm going with.

 

Hi @6MTPro

I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner.

Your 5th Gen Trail Edition wheels are 17x7.5" +15mm offset and 4.84" backspacing. The 17x8.5" -6mm offset Overlanders will fit well on your 4th Gen 4Runner with 3" lift , aftermarket UCAs and 285/70R17's. The backspacing is 4.5", so you'll have plenty of UCA clearance.

The Overlanders will sit approximately 1.5" wider (per corner) compared to your 5th Gen Trail Edition wheels. The stance will be more aggressive, but not over the top to the point that the wheels are hanging out way past the body.

You'll have to do some modifications to plastics inside the front wheel wells to eliminate rubbing, but with aftermarket UCAs and 285/70R17's you should be able to avoid a body mount chop (unless the tires are super aggressive and/or your UCAs don't allow for enough positive caster).

Here's an example of a similar setup from one of our customers:



If I can answer any other questions please let me know. Feel free to email me anytime at FNWheels@gmail.com, call us at (951)735-1100 or call/text me directly at (714)390-9387.

 

This is exactly what I was looking for when trying to decide what route to go with my 2004 V8 4Runner. Have the 3" lift and the aftermarket UCAs with 285/70/17 and 5th gen TE wheels while keeping aftermarket rokblokz mud flaps. What would be a better fit the overlanders with the 8.5 -6mm offset or the Konig Countersteer at 8" -10mm offset?

 

Hi @6MTPro,

I believe we spoke directly since your last post, but I realized that I never responded here in the thread. Someone had a similar question recently.

The fitment is essentially the same when comparing a 17x8.5" -6mm offset and a 17x8" -10mm offset wheel. The Overlander will be a little closer to the suspension compared to the Countersteer Type X, but the 4.5" backspacing of the Overlander still provides enough suspension clearance for up to a 295mm tire width (easily a 285mm tire width such as your 285/70R17).

Here's how to calculate this information (the following numbers are rounded for simplicity, but are accurate within 1/100th of an inch):

Rim width difference of .5" ÷ 2 (a wheel is round, so half of the rim width goes to the outside and half to the inside) = .25". If both wheels had the same offset, the 8.5" wheel would be .25" closer to the suspension on the inside and .25" farther to the outside of the of the fender.

Since these wheels have different offsets, we have to consider the differences in offset. The FN Wheels Overlander has -6mm offset and the FN/Konig Countersteer Type X has -10mm offset. The difference is -4mm (-.16").

Fender side (outside) fitment : .25" -.16" = .09". The Overlander will sit .09" (about 3/32's of an inch) wider than the Countersteer Type X.

The backspacing of the Overlander is 4.5" and the Countersteer Type X backspacing is 4.1".

Suspension side (inside) fitment : 4.5" - 4.1" = .4" . The Overlander will be .4" (about 13/32's of an inch) closer to the Suspension compared to the Countersteer Type X.

You only need 5" backspacing to clear the factory or tubular upper control arms and 4.75" backspacing to clear most aftermarket upper control arms with 285mm tire widths, so 4.5" is still more than sufficient. In fact, since 2006 we have designed most of our wheels with 4.5" backspacing for the 2nd/3rd Gen Tacomas, 4th/5th Gen 4Runner and FJ Cruisers (all of which share the same suspension). We found early on that a backspacing of right around 4.5" is optimal for the majority of our customers.

Hope this info helps, and please don't hesitate to ask if there are any other questions I can answer. I appreciate the interest and conversation about our wheels.

 

Also, I have had some questions lately regarding a post made back in 2018 by a customer who had some discoloration around the bolt holes on the simulated beadlock. Please keep in mind that the Spec B version (simulated beadlock machining), like any/all wheels with bolts around the outer lip, will require a little more attention to detail when cleaning your wheels. This is true for the OEM TRD FJ SE / Tacoma Baja 16" wheels, all aftermarket wheels, etc.

If you live in an area where salt water / salt brine is prevalent you'll want to clean those bolt holes out and use an air compressor to blow out any standing water. If this doesn't sound like something that you want to do, or if you just don't want to have a simulated beadlock design, then we made a different version of this wheel specifically for you - the FN Wheels Overlander Spec A.

That's not to say that there is any issue with the Overlander Spec B. We have customers who have had the Spec B on their trucks for 7+ years now and the wheels still look like new. Our wheels have a durable clear coat that is extensively salt-spray tested. However, salt is corrosive and these wheels are not immune to prolonged salt exposure (virtually no wheels are immune). If salt sits on the surface of anything for too long it will eventually corrode that surface no matter how good of a coating there was to begin with, and a wheel with extra nooks and crannies will require extra time and attention when cleaning/detailing.

I myself installed the Overlander Spec A on my FJ Cruiser because I wanted something a little easier to clean, but if one of our customers likes the Spec B better I wouldn't talk them out of it. I'd just inform them that a little more maintenance will be required, particularly if you live in an area where salt can be an issue.

 

I appreciate the reponse and detail for something that is such a large purchase and impacts the looks of the vehicle greatly. I have been playing with the offset tools online and I am trying to figure out how functionally 17X8.5 -6 vs 17X8.5 -10 would be. On the calculators it seems nominal, but I am trying to avoid cutting, chopping, etc where possible. The 285s I currently have run on the small side as well. Currently I have a full aftermarket suspension and UCA setup that the 17X7.5 +15mm 4runner trail wheels clear but I would like a little more space between the tire and UCA. I think you're right and the countersteers do have a great look, but at 8" wide the tire sidewall would balloon a bit.

 

Is there still an option for gloss bronze with machined ring? Also, availability of bronze w/ machined beadlock ring regardless of gloss/matte? Able to opt for machined blank caps instead of color matched as well? Appreciate it Dustin @JdMeF9SiR2

 

Hi @TacoVio ,

Gloss bronze with machined ring was discontinued. If we have enough customer demand we can bring it back, but the demand seemed to be stronger for matte bronze.

We do have a few sets of matte bronze in stock right now. The wheels are "out of stock" on our website, but if you contact me directly at FNWheels@gmail.com, office : (951)735-1100 or call/text my cell (714)390-9387 I can get a set out to you.

We can substitute the caps for the blank machined aluminum caps too. No problem.

 

You're very welcome. I'm happy to be able to help.

The Countersteer Type X are 17x8" -10mm offset, so the difference in functionality is pretty nominal compared to 17x8.5" -6mm offset. You mentioned 17x8.5" -10mm offset, and even that wouldn't be too far off from the aforementioned fitments (the difference is about another .25" of poke to the outside). 17x8.5" -10mm might be just enough to require more cutting and chopping when compared to 17x8" -10mm or 17x8.5" -6mm.

• If you're trying to keep the rim width at 8.5" and want to do minimal trimming/cutting with 285/70R17 tires on your 2004 4Runner I would stick with an offset of -6mm offset.
• If you're looking at a wheel with an 8" rim width and want to do minimal trimming/cutting with 285/70R17 tires on your 2004 4Runner I would consider a +0mm offset.

The 8.5" rim width will square off the tire a little more than an 8" rim width, but either 8" or 8.5" will work just fine with 285/70R17 tires.

 

I really want a set of the matte black spec b with machined ring.

 

I might be asking something answered further back. Apologies if so.
I noticed on one of the earlier posts (page 1 or 2) that there was a pic of these on the scales. Now obviously they look good but I'm a form follows function guy. I won't spend money on something that isn't a functional upgrade - especially the kinda money wheels cost. So are these lighter? Stronger? What's the performance benefit?

And if there is none and they are purely just a good looking set of wheels, that's fine too. No shame in that game and I hope you make a mint selling them. That's Capitalism Baby!

 

Does the oem air pressure sensors work in these wheels?

 

Mine did

 

Thanks