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foglight switch backlight quit working

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by kwelklin, Oct 23, 2011.

  1. Nov 3, 2011 at 9:01 AM
    #21
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    Glenville, NY
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  2. Nov 5, 2011 at 9:07 PM
    #22
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Joe
    Central Coast, CA
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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
  3. Nov 29, 2011 at 1:05 PM
    #23
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    Retribution
    South West
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    Blacked-Out Badges; Retribution Decals (Sockmonkey); Tailgate Mod; Red LED Rear Blinkers; Yellow Foglights; Yellow Front Blinkers; Superwhite Xenon Corner Bulb; Leer Bedcap; Bedrug Bedmat; Black Cupholders; Black Plastic Piece Around Window Controls; Plasti-Dip Front Bumper Valence; Plasti-Dip Grill Surround; Blackout Chrome Back Bumper; Metal Miller Skid-Plate; Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler; TSB Rear Leaf Springs and Shocks; Satoshi Grill Pending; Off-Roading Torn off Mirror (Replaced); Blue-Sea Fuse Box; Tinted Tail Lights; URD Short Shifter; Interior Mood Lighting; Hood Lights; BedLights Pending
    Any updates on this? And what is the easiest way to take the switch apart?
     
  4. Nov 29, 2011 at 1:18 PM
    #24
    ViperJay

    ViperJay These are the voyages...

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    Chris
    El Paso, TX
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    URD CAI, DTLT Headers, Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, Aero 2540i muffler, NST Pulleys, URD MAF Calibrator, Icon 2.5 Coilovers , Bilstein 5100s in rear with All Pro 3" Leaf pack, Total Chaos UCAs, 2 Kicker 12" CVT Subwoofers w/Kicker ZX350.2 Amp, JVC KD-AVX77 stereo, ARE Camper Shell, 1 20" LED bar and 2 7" LED bars in front, 4 KC 6" HID Slimlites mounted on Bajarack roof rack, sliders, Cobra 29 XLR CB Radio, Icom IC-207H UHF/VHF Radio, Bed Lighting, Fog light mod, Projector Retrofit Headlights HID 5000k, HID fog lights 4300k, BHLM, LED taillights and turn signals, Glassworks front fenders, Blue Sea Fuse Box, Mil-Spec Battery Terminals, Odyssey PC2150 battery, Satoshi Grill, All-Pro Front Bumper
    Wait theres a light behind the fog light switch :eek:. Mine must have been burnt out since I got it lol.
     
  5. Nov 29, 2011 at 1:34 PM
    #25
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    Blacked-Out Badges; Retribution Decals (Sockmonkey); Tailgate Mod; Red LED Rear Blinkers; Yellow Foglights; Yellow Front Blinkers; Superwhite Xenon Corner Bulb; Leer Bedcap; Bedrug Bedmat; Black Cupholders; Black Plastic Piece Around Window Controls; Plasti-Dip Front Bumper Valence; Plasti-Dip Grill Surround; Blackout Chrome Back Bumper; Metal Miller Skid-Plate; Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler; TSB Rear Leaf Springs and Shocks; Satoshi Grill Pending; Off-Roading Torn off Mirror (Replaced); Blue-Sea Fuse Box; Tinted Tail Lights; URD Short Shifter; Interior Mood Lighting; Hood Lights; BedLights Pending
    Crap I thought the LED went out the other way, so I got mine apart and now I lost the pin...
     
  6. Nov 29, 2011 at 1:44 PM
    #26
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    Retribution
    South West
    Vehicle:
    08 SR5 Access V6 6-Speed
    Blacked-Out Badges; Retribution Decals (Sockmonkey); Tailgate Mod; Red LED Rear Blinkers; Yellow Foglights; Yellow Front Blinkers; Superwhite Xenon Corner Bulb; Leer Bedcap; Bedrug Bedmat; Black Cupholders; Black Plastic Piece Around Window Controls; Plasti-Dip Front Bumper Valence; Plasti-Dip Grill Surround; Blackout Chrome Back Bumper; Metal Miller Skid-Plate; Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler; TSB Rear Leaf Springs and Shocks; Satoshi Grill Pending; Off-Roading Torn off Mirror (Replaced); Blue-Sea Fuse Box; Tinted Tail Lights; URD Short Shifter; Interior Mood Lighting; Hood Lights; BedLights Pending
    Yeah... This blows... I've been trying to find it :(
     
  7. Dec 8, 2011 at 2:53 PM
    #27
    t_e

    t_e Well-Known Member

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    my pin fell out but i found it. how does it go back in?
     
  8. Dec 9, 2011 at 1:03 PM
    #28
    t_e

    t_e Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! i was extremely happy until i realized i lost the straight long one. Owell i dont need this switch anyway.
     
  9. Sep 7, 2019 at 5:03 PM
    #29
    mphawk

    mphawk Member

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    Bristow, VA
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    2010 DC TRD OR
    OME 2885 front coil overs, Bilstein 5100 front, 5125 rear, ICON RXT pack (option 2), JBA UCA, Whiteline LCA Bushings (Best thing I've Done), ECGS front diff bushing, VLEDS Triton V6 headlight bulbs, VLEDS DRL, Power Stop front calipers, SOS rear bumper, RCI skid plate, Rough Country step bars, TRD gloss wheels, KO2 265 75. With the OME coil overs, ICON RXT option 2, I essentially achieved a 2 inch lift with no vibe issues, way less body roll than stock. With the Whiteline LCA bushings, my steering is hands off straight on the highway...night and day difference from OEM. Replaced upper and lower control arms, sway bar bushings, alignment cams and had some alignment cam stops welded on at 120K miles. Drives better now than when it was brand new.
    I just replaced the back lighting bulbs in every switch except for the inverter...

    Thanks for all the tips in previous posts. I ended up dropping the lower dash toget to the upper row of switches. Pretty straight forward. (Video link below)

    Ordered the T3 bulbs fromAutolumination. The amber matched my 2010 dash perfectly. They lock and unlock in to place with a 1/4 turn from a straight slot screwdriver. (Had to shake the old ones out of switch onceunlocked)

    The autolumination bulbs are tinted glass....The OEM bulbs had like a silicon condom-like cover on them. My guess is, that the heat retained by the silicon cover may be one of the reasons thatthe OEM ones didn’t last long...maybe?....so hopefully the tinted glass bulbs last longer...

    Found a pretty good video...it’s actually showing how to remove instrument cluster. For gaining access to top row of switches...I was able to stop once i got to the part where the lower dash is separated from the upper..(10 minutestops to get the dash halves separated)

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bh_SmWsSZH8


    61211529-EB91-4EBA-AC07-DB2EDF14E672.jpg


    I tried the fishing line...the butterknives...trim removal tools...My upper switches were locked in tight....couldn’t budge the upper switches till I separated the dash halves...and was able to get a small screwdriver behind them for some persuasion. Top switches seemed to take considerably more force than lowers..

    Also replaced the lights in the climate control panel. Clear T4’s from autolumination.

    Replacing the climate control panel lights first was good practice...the T4’s are quite a bit larger than the T3’s in the switches
     

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