For all those Auto to manual conversion guys.

Has anyone tried this and confirmed the check engine light stays off? "
Fixed! The cure for a check engine light after auto to manual swap
After much pain and suffering (and a pair of reading glasses for the FSM) I've finally figured out the way to turn off the check engine light after doing an auto to manual swap. Mine is a 1996 2.7, your mileage may vary.

I'm not going to mention wire colors since they vary from year to year and truck to truck but here's the info:

Buy (3) 500 ohm 1 watt resistors (4:1 safety factor) and wire them between shift solenoids A, B, and E to ground. I.e. one side of the each resistor to each shift solenoid wire and tie the other side of all three together and then to ground. A handy ground can be found on the connector for your now unused 'L4' or 't-case neutral' position switch.

Cut wires 5 and 6 from your P/N position switch and connect them together- this allows your truck to start. Now, find and cut the lead that indicates 'drive' and connect to the common of the switch. You'll probably already have this common tied to one side of your reverse light switch so just connect the 3 together. Leave the rest of the wires in the connector.

Now, buy a 2k ohm 1/4 watt resistor and connect between the two leads of your trans temp sensor.

That's it! No codes thus far but I will keep you updated as I go along and especially after I complete the famous Toyota 'drive cycle' which I need to do to pass inspection. If you have done it differently and it works please post an update! Enjoy!

Greg "
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I tried it and I still had a cel. I'm not saying it doesn't work though, I could have just as easily messed up compared to what they did. Truck runs and operates like it should though

 

There's another speed sensor in transmission. I didn't think you could get buy without it. Wonder if i could build a module that would duplicate it off the speed sensor 1. Hmmmmm......

 

What code does it set?

 

Do you know what code is set?

 

There was a couple I believe. A park neutral safety switch code and some other weird one. I can't remember anymore what it was. I ended up cutting the whole pnss off and capped all the wires so that might be part of the problem. I think in the post the guy said to leave all the unused wires in the switch.

 

If i could find out what codes. I'd like to try and come up with a fix.

 

Any advice on doing this swap on a 2nd gen 2.7? I'm thinking of just getting the whole engine harness and ECU.

 

Manual harness and ECUs are getting hard to find. Especially for the 2002 -2004 v6.

 

2nd...gen..... no idea

 

I'm away from my 4runner for the next month or so out of town for work. I'll try to get them for you as soon as I get home.

 

When I had a manual transmission behind me 4.7, I had to run an auto ecu because a manual version doesn't exist.

I wired things so that the ECU "thought" the transmission was in reverse. I then wired the neutral position switch to the N/O switch on the clutch.

I wired in a few resistors for thinks like the shift solinoid, and AT temp sensors and some others. I looked in the FSM for specifics in Ohms readings.

I ran it that way for almost 3 years before I went back to a slush box this year.

 

The A340 trans has a second speed sensor from what I understand. Without it, it will set a code.

 

The ECU I was using was from a 2002 Tundra, so that would have had an a340. I remember something about a speed sensor, but it's been awhile. All I used was resistors. When the ECU thinks the transmission is in reverse, it only runs basic function checks.

When I first got it going, I wired in the basic stuff to get the engine to run, then delt with codes as they came.

 

Interesting about the reverse. Did you use clutch switch to override reverse to allow you to start it?

 

Nope. Hard wired in reverse, and wired the neutral to the Normal open switch on the clutch pedal (closes when you push the clutch). The ECU never seemed to care that the neutral signal would pop in randomly. Also, the engine ecu never seemed to care that the truck was running 60-70-80mph plus in reverse. Just goes to show you that the ECU does not actually "think".

 

Subbed. I want to do this

 

I would recommend getting a manual ecu, if you can. If not, you can make an auto ecu work.

 

It'd have to be the ECU and complete wiring harness. The harness connections are different. I got my truck because it had 61k on it when I found it. I was not excited with the 2.7 auto but for the miles and price I didn't care. I'm sure with a manual it'd be a different beast

 

You can purchase the plastic plug housing with no terminals from Toyota for $8 each. Then transfer your pins to the new plugs. Time consuming but can be done. I believe @COMAtized99 is doing that.

Did you notice any differance in the way your truck ran hardwired in reverse? Curious if an 03-04 drive by wire would react the same way.