For the TW members set up correct/approved or concerns

So I am getting ready to purchase a number of items for my truck and would like to know what everyone’s thought is? If there is any additional items I should purchase to install while doing the process of skids, suspension and wheels. I have already installed the bushing in the diff to take care of the lift.

Also with my tire/wheel/suspension set up does anyone think I will have any type of rubbing issues. I have not done and didn’t plan on doing a cab mount cut or install, but building a set up that would clear without any modification in that area.

looking for any advice or suggestions if from the research I have done this won’t work.

Exhaust re-route( happening this Friday to prepare for skids)

Skid plates
Rci
Engine skid - steel
Transmission skid - steel
Transfer skid- steel
Gas tank skid- aluminum
A-arm skids- steel
(All from rci)

will install rubber washer and flat washer for reported squeaky with these skids during installation.

Suspension
Front
Bilstein 6112 clip 11/9- 2” lift shocks
Old man emu upper control arms

Rear
OME 2” lift 661 LB leaf pack
Bilstein 5160 shocks



Wheels
Black rhino chamber 17” 17x8.5 0 offset

QUESTION -should I or do I need new lug nuts? From research I’m thinking yes and should purchase gorilla ET lug nuts (M12x1.5 flanged and ET lug nuts) this sound correct ?

Tires
255x80-17

QUESTION- with this set up will I rub? From my research this set up seems to not rub but maybe I’m wrong?

what is everyone’s thought ?

 

Looks like a good setup to me, 255/80/17 won't rub at stock height so you'll be more than good on clearance.

 

My thoughts; why would anyone spend this kind of money altering a perfectly capable off road vehicle as is? Save your money brother as there will come a day where you will regret doing this.

 

The poors are out again

 

You might want to do the ECGS (needle Bering) being your doing a lift.

 

I would hold off on the LCA skids. I bought them and immediately took them off. They take a lot of clearance away and will hang you up more than you would think. And they don't protect much at all...the factory LCAs can take an absolute beating and still be golden. If you plan on wheeling hard, get cam tab gussets and weld them on before getting the new alignment after your lift.

 

I did this already.

 

I decided to do this after I have off roaded my truck hard enough to bend a crossbar member and would like to use my truck without concern.

 

I appreciate the advice and was on the fence for a arm skids glad I made this post

 

Engine and transmission skid ... yes. Get the catalytic converter guards that bolt to the transmission skid.

Exhaust re-route ... that is OK. Usually around $100 so get it done since it is scheduled.

The rest ... why? Do you plan on serious rock-crawling in the near future? Do you plan to cross deep rivers soon (get a schnooorkull too, then)?

Prove the need, then spend the money ... when spending money on that level.

 

I went with the Marlin Crawler cam tab kit and holy crap it is beefy...and acts as a "skid" for your cam bolts/frame attach points. And the same price as other gusset kits.

 

I have already hit the undercarriage with rocks and would like some ground clearance and my shocks are tired and need to be replaced anyway, and the leaf in the rear is flat and saggy since I have a camper shell. So I figured while I need protection for the undercarriage of my truck to protect it since I have already hit rocks under there and the other parts are tired or worn I could spend a little extra and upgrade while I’m at it.

 

If you can justify it, feel free. Catalytic converter guards, though.

 

I appreciate the advice and will look into those from rci. I know a lot of people will say why are you doing all this work, blah blah blah but I need new shocks and leafs so I’m upgrading while replacing. I’m not replacing new shocks off of a truck with a few thousand miles I’m replacing shocks, leafs that are beat after 85k plus miles. I understand i could get the bare minimum but that isn’t my style I like to improve on things within reason. I wouldn’t go spend 3-4K on shocks but a couple hundred extra over it for a better set up I think it’s worth it.

 

Hoping to get some insight and experienced knowledge on these questions from individuals that know and have experience.

QUESTION -should I or do I need new lug nuts? From research I’m thinking yes and should purchase gorilla ET lug nuts (M12x1.5 flanged and ET lug nuts) this sound correct ?


QUESTION- with this set up will I rub? From my research this set up seems to not rub but maybe I’m wrong?

QUESTION- is zero offset for wheels the best route or offset to pick ?

 

No I would like to know if the set up I built will work out and work properly. I can give two shits of your negative opinion.

 

Buck, I love you man, but….

The Op appears to have been around awhile, and more to the point, has had his truck for awhile. It's not like he's new to TW and just bought his 1st Tacoma with its $40k+ price tag. -cheers!

Go OP!

 

I would get new lugs for the black rhinos...yes

You should not rub at all, even at full stuff.

I'm more of a -15 offset guy but I have cut fenders and a CMR running 37X13.50R17s when I wheel so I need to keep the tire off the UCA. 0 with skinny 33's will stay inside the flare and you will have plenty of room to clear the UCA and cab mount.

 

You're right, I am out of line. Apologies OP! I am kind of a financial guru and thus hate seeing people waste money. In this case I guess it's justified. Carry on!

 

zero offset is the way to go. that is what my wheels are and i have 33's. i barely rub so you should be plenty fine with that tire size. i would also get lug nuts just incase the stock ones dont fit your new wheels.