For the TW members set up correct/approved or concerns

There is nothing wrong with your set up - it is well researched and planed - the only thing I didn't was rock sliders. They are the first thing I would say get for going off road. I like you are armored up all the way.
That is a good build for off road - I have a similar build 2" lift with 33s as well and have done some trails rated difficult with no problems. Like you I have wheeled hard and the armor has been worth every penny.

Some things that don't cost that much that I would recommend but are not really required:
1.) Spindle gussets - they weld on so no big deal any shop can do it (just a little extra insurance)
2.) chop the exhaust facing down just past the axle (get the exhaust out the back out of the way)
3.) A Cab mount Chop is cheap ( I got mine plus a viper cut for $450 so the CMC should be half that)
4.) extended bump stops (really easy to install yourself)
5.) U bolt flip ( like the cutting the exhaust just past the axle gets rid of that stuff that hanging down waiting to get caught on a rock)
A viper cut might be extreme where a little fender trim or just pushing the liner forward a tad will do.
I did it because I want to wheel hard and not deal with rubbing at all but also I run 285 so the 255 probably won't need it.

 

what is your U-bolt flip kit. ive been wanting to do that to my truck

 

I went with Archive Garage with an extended bump stop. Very easy to install.

EDIT: you can see where the exhaust is cut just past the axle in this pic as well

 

bolt kit looks nice. any problems with the exhaust close to the spare tire like that?

 

Didn't see it mentioned but I would add a ~3° rear axle shim to help correct the pinion angle of the rear diff

Also, didn't see front springs mentioned, stock ones might hold you over for a bit since it doesn't look like you are doing a bumper and winch but the weight of steel plates add up quick

As for rubbing, I did have some with 255/80/17 on a 0 offset

 

what lift did you have to warrant a shim ?

 

since you have a similar build did you have to get shims for the rear driveline and also break lines ? And can the stock u bolts be used with the set up until i decide to flip them and put bump stops on it?

 

Curious if there is a particular lug nut I have to buy for my wheel set up ? I will do the research but can’t find anything about it.

 

I kept it at a 2" lift with the Bilsteins (coil over front / leaf pack rear) No shims or break line extensions needed. From everything I have read and researched and talking to way more experienced folks who take Tacos off road 2" is about as much as you want to go. Once you get higher you start putting more stress on the suspension parts - obviously you can do it and depending on how many miles you drive and how hard you wheel will be what determines how well everything holds up when you go higher. Unless you are building an extreme rock crawler 2" will get you what you need to even go to 35s. I'm not sure you even need the UCAs but I think it's a good idea if just for the alignment - the 255s for sure will clear them. And no you absolutely do not need the U bolt flip at all - ever really - I just hated the way the bolts hung down in the way. You can add the extended bump stops later even without the flip as well - they are not a must - I just wanted them because there are times I do wheel a hard. Of all the stuff I recommended in my above post I would say sliders definitely and after that spindle gussets. The other stuff . . . . just stuff I think is a good idea.

Overall you have what I think is an excellent set up (I guess because I kind of have the same set up). Our set ups with 33s can wheel hard and hang with the Tacos (and 4 Runners) that are packing 35s. And if you ever decide to go to 35s you will be able to with very little additional modification (a cab mount chop and trimming the front fender a tad). The thing that is stopping me for now is getting a $3.5k re-gear

EDIT: One other thing - you can definitely get away with the stock coils (springs) lots of folks do that and it works out OK. I went with the heavy duty OME springs to get the 2" lift but also because of the heavier tires (since I have 285s) but also because the weight of all the armor. Something you might want to think about as well

 

I got new lug nuts with my Method wheels. That is the correct sizing and I think I got the Gorilla ones too. I thought the OEM ones were only for the OEM wheels.

 

thank you this is very valuable and appreciated info. I won’t ever go to 35” tires like I said I need to replace most all of these parts on my truck from wear and tear and so I’m upgrading slightly but I don’t want to go to a 35” tire because of the same reason as you I don’t want to spend more money on gearing and this simple set up from the research I have done will fit my needs greatly. Thanks again.

 

Thank you I thought I was correct on that but need the verification of the members before I pulled the trigger and bought the stuff thank you.

 

255/80/17 won't rub with stock rims, but all bets are off once you change the offset. It seems hit or miss around here.

My knockoff TRD rims are +4 offset and I'm able to keep my mudflaps, and did not need to trim or do a cmc... Still on stock wheel nuts.

Good luck Op, you couldn't have picked a better colour....

 

The only thing u forgot was the beer .lol post some pics of when done

 

Similar to what you have picked out. Main differences are the UCA's (Bilstein B8), springs (Bilstein #700), and rear leafs (Icon AAL with overload in the rear).

This is the thread that lead me to having shims on hand in case there were drive line vibrations. It's for a 2nd gen and someone can correct me if I'm way off the mark for thinking there is not much difference in the rear drive line between 2nd and 3rd gen.

Decided to install it along with the rest of the lift and it's been smooth (for a truck) sailing ever since.

 

Good to know thank you and will
Get the cheap insurance and install them.

 

Will do thank you

 

Yeah I love the color thanks