For those of you with block heaters.

Worth a try and is not expensive to do, in fact, you will save some $$ not having the block heater on all night and day. Block heaters are usually rated about 400 watts.

 

The code is displayed when the difference in temperature is over 45 degrees. I would push to have it investigated further. Toyota needs to throw a scope on both the sensors and play around to try and duplicate the issue.

These temperatures affect the fuel, cam timing and spark curves for your engine. Wouldn't want that to get too screwy.

Edit: a lot of the time these thermistors have a "dead spot" where at a certain temperature they short. Wouldn't be too hard to diagnose with a scope, a cold day and a heat gun.

 

I agree, I will try the other suggestions as well. But the bottom line is I should not have to have the heater on a timer, something is acting up.

 

The more I think about this issue, the more the criteria in the repair manual doesnt make sense.
Florida coast here, so no actual help testing it...

Note, this code has 2 trip detection logic, so people who who use a block heater at home and not at work, MIGHT not see it for that reason... Keep that in mind with anecdotal evidence.

OP, @Fye123, please describe better the typical morning/evening drive cycle and if you are using block heater both locations? (I am curious how this is probably tripping the 2 trip detection logic...)


Hypothetical:
I am super rich Taco driver who lives where it is cold as hell, and I only use my truck every day to drive for 10 minutes to go to the end of the driveway to get my mail and then drive back and put it back in the heated garage. (The battery is charged up, I do it every day. Truck has been sitting still for 23.8 hours since yesterday.)

I keep my truck in a toasty garage (+70F), and it is cold as hell outside (0F). I hop in and instantly start the truck and open the garage door. After the garage door opens (~40 secs) I slowly drive onto the driveway. Water temp is already warmish and will continue to get warmer due to closed thermostat. I drive slowly to the mailbox (its a mile in the snow... Man I am rich). After 536 seconds the ECU samples air (OF) and water (maybe 120F) and its more than 45F different.

If I drive straight back to the garage and do it tomorrow, then tomorrow after 536 seconds I will get the P011B62 (as best as I can tell.)

The logic in the repair manual just doesnt make sense to me. I must be missing something... (but good chance I am not)

 

My truck is only run on the weekends as I have a work vehicle, I plug it in Friday morning and leave with it Friday evening, it will sit all weekend and get plugged in Saturday night and leave Sunday morning.

 

Well I am going to GUESS that you are getting it and most people don't due to the 2 trip logic required with 7 hr wait time between. Again, not that this 'fixes' the problem.

I wonder if they have the same detection in Canadian ECUs, (I thought they were at the same ECU software revisions as US but do not recall for sure...)

I wonder what they did in the ECU for the 2nd gens that they had to fix it in 2015 models with a TSB...

 

The less obtuse example would be leaving my house at -30, driving to 10 minutes to work, parking my car for eight hours and plugged in, while I work and then driving home and plugging in.

536 seconds is nearly 9 minutes. This truck will start to get warm in that time if not fully warmed up, especially while moving, even at -40F and being parked outside with or without being plugged in. So I guess I don’t understand the fault code either.

 

Been plugging in every night for the last month, with air temp consistently between -20C and -30C. No codes here

 

Well, I talked to customer service at Toyota corporate (3) times and they are telling me since the dealer could not "duplicate" the problem, that there is nothing they can do.

Do you think I should ask to talk to someones boss above customer service? Pretty lame execuse to say that it's throwing a code because of the block heater.