Frame Replacement - What additional cost to expect from the Dealer?

My truck has aftermarket total chaos boxed LCA's an dthe list that my dealer gave me showing replacement parts, included new factory LCA's. So it would seem that the LCA's are a package deal when replacing the frame.

 

This is the first I'm seeing a list of ancillary parts , glad I stumbled in here, but I'd wager that "If needed" is the key phrase there. It also would need to have been damaged during removal as part of the frame replacement process. "Normal wear and tear" is not covered or considered a justification for replacement.

For instance my rack and pinion is blown out and should be replaced, but I'd be paying for a new one out of pocket, vs toyota replacing it under warranty as an ancillary part. The lawsuit uses the term "incidental" in relation to parts that can/should be replaced during the warranty procedure. Basically if said part failed or was broken during the strip down of the frame being replaced or due to rust and corrosion, such as a rear shock rod end breaking or say the R&P ends up with a bolt broke off inside the housing, it should be covered and replaced at no cost to the vehicle owner.

Here's a screenshot of the final order per the class action suit dated 5/21/17.



I'm guessing since theyve been doing these frame swaps pretty regularly, they've extended coverage to include other specific items that may be affected with this revised dealer bulletin, dated 6/26/18.




I'm currently waiting for my replacement frame to arrive. My 06 qualified at the very last hour, and at the discretion of a corporate service field tech. I ended up in a game of ro-sham-bo with the dealer, they claimed I drilled holes on the frame. After I made a call to corporate to complain followed by a few negative reviews about the dealers service dept on social media, my frame was approved.

 

Agree, magic word is “if”. My tie rod ends came off fine in the during the removal and could have gone back on. But they were wearing, they called and offered to put the existing back on go new. Open wallet, bought parts, labor free.

 

Just got my 06 Double cab back, dealer cost was 14,327 total, my cost was 1001.93

I had them do a right front wheel bearing, and both CV shafts along with sway bar links. They had the truck for 5 days, and offered a rental, I did not take them up as I have other cars. All in all, they put alot of work into my 190K truck. My battery went bellyup as they worked on the truck, and they put in a new Toyota one for free....

 

I believe, if I'm reading it correctly, that stabilizer links are covered as cited on the paperwork posted above. Learning point for someone else maybe.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the links. I just got a review from Toyota on my replacement. So I brought up the charging for the links. We shall see if it gets any reply....

 

I had my frame replaced under the recall and they called me for my motor mounts because I riped them it was 350.00 other then that nothin

 

Hello on my 2004 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab v6 4x4, the frame is completely past shot but I am under the impression i missed the time frame to get it replaced by the dealer. This is true correct, that i am passed the timeline to file for a new frame?

 

Welcome to Tacoma world.
Hate to say it but yea I’m pretty sure out of luck.
This is for the thru 2005-?..
I’m thinking the 1st gens got 15 years so Depending on in service date it may still qualify?
Not really sure.
Maybe ask in the first gen section.
Maybe a mod can move your post for you.
@jberry813
sorry saw the hammer thing.

 

Okay no worries just trying to find out what needs to be done, I have 2 toyota motorhomes, one with 27k miles and one w/76k miles. i wanted to sell both of those and get a new frame on this 04 tacoma v6 access cab 4x4 and put a little slide in it like this. any help on where to get a good price on a frame installed helps me, no way could i pay $15000, that's the dealers cost i worked for toyota for 3 years. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/slide-in-truck-campers.353756/ Looking for just a guesstimate on LABOR ONLY of getting the old frame off and the new one one, i would source the frame.

 

How bad is your frame?
A guy at work has a first gen he said his shock mount broke and had it welded.
I went under it and it was toast back there.
Also welds look they used a battery blindfolded.
Find out your in service date you may qualify.

https://www.toyota.com/owners/my-vehicle/vehicle-specification

 

ITS BAD! the first place i talked to wanted to weld some supports or something crazy, no way, 100% needs to be replaced. Will call service in the morning w/the vin to get a first in service date but i think i explored this before and came up shorthanded. Would have done it if i owned it earlier but just came upon this tacoma a few months ago.

O WOW, thank you for that link. Might like it better over here than in the Toyota Motorhome Club!

 

Wrap up and lessons learned:
My daughters 06 came out of the shop after 4 weeks. Total was $12,000 and some change for the warranty that Toyota picked up. My side of it to the dealership was $935.00. It turned out really strange. First, I think the basic question is will the dealership follow the required parts to be exchanged based on the paperwork that is scanned in this posting. This is critical. If they play stupid or don't know, present the list of parts to them or find a new dealership. My dealership said they also did not have a problem putting on any parts that I choose to want changed. This is important as e.g. the driveshaft on mine needed replacement. They said theirs was going to be somewhere around $900 or they'd replace the carrier bearing and had to change a u joint on it which would cost more than $350 installed. Bought a spicer unit out of a wrecked truck with new carrier bearings and greaseable u joints for $350.

So they did the engine seal and I bought new front brake calipers from them. The lesson here is to make sure you get prices in text form or written estimate if you want them to do it. I say that since the final bill yesterday came in at over $1900 and I had to show them via text what they stated the pricing was and what they said they would do for no labor charge. As I said, the cost came down to $935 and I think they made mistakes in my favor though we discussed that and they were adamant about the correct final number.

They also wanted to charge me on a rear brake service for labor when I provided the parts on the mechanics recommendation. He said that he had to take the rear brakes apart anyway when he installed the new parking brake lines so its no extra charge. The mechanic actually confirmed that to the service writer so more cost knocked off. Make sure you have proof of everything they say they will do!

 

Sounds like you made out well. Glad to hear it. The real question though is does it run well and how does it ride!

 

It's not a CVT.

 

It looks really good and rides a bit rough. That's because of the spacer lift up front and the AAL in the back...is my guess. But, my daughter likes it and is very happy with it. One negative is that the mechanic couldn't bleed the brakes to the point where they are not spongy. Meaning, they are very spongy (sorry for the double negatives).

One other issue, not covered by the warranty, is that one of the actuators for the four wheel drive is not working properly. The vehicle has been stuck in 4x4 as of last night.

 

I have been doing car work for a long time...

Tacoma brakes are a PAIN to bleed, most always takes multiple tries to get all the air out.

 

Good to know. It went back to the dealer last week and they bled it again, according to the invoice. No charge on that as it is part of the warranty in regard to frame replacement.

 

Just got my truck back today. It took an additional 5 days from the original projected completion date. I should have got it back Monday the 22nd, but just picked it up Saturday the 27th. No additional cost to me, but did receive additional electrical headaches. Started off with a major misfire and a p0351 code. They fixed that which was a loos pin at the ECU where plug E4 of the engine harness plugs in. That was followed by a p0974 code for the S1 solenoid in the transmission. They found a loose pin at the transmission wiring harness. It seems they where a bit aggressive when removing plugs and compromised pin/wire connections in the plugs. Truck now runs the way it did prior to the frame swap. New frame, new LCA's and new rear leafs with shackles and ubolts etc.

 

Your front driveshaft is missing!! See second picture. Skidplate and spare tire are missing also. What a bunch of hacks that dealership is. Id be raising hell!!