Frame rust question

I am not debating the requirement of the good prepwork, but if one can not be done I would rather brushed paint then spray it. Also even the best prep-work means nothing if there is not enough paint sprayed on the area.
99% of us (Owners of 2gen) has no place, time, money, or means to disasemble that truck, wire brush the frame and go through 100 steps of painting. The next best thing is to paint the frame with heavy coat of primer and paint. Something that will isolate metal from air for long time.

 

Yes to the OP, treat that dang thing! Don't wait.
To Fortech, your eyes on data is pretty telling. You would think after the buy backs & frame replacements something would change?

 

Volume of paint is not the issue. Unpainted frames should last longer than what these have been known to, well, unless those pictures are coastal.

Toyota has always liked to make a weak frame. Used to be the assumption that it was recycled japanese metal (they don't make steel). Is the frame made in asia or at least the raw channel? Some steel really isn't automotive material...

My truck is brand new, but sat on a dock for a couple months oranging up everywhere it had weakness.

There was tons of slag, like bbs glued all over the frame, and all the welds were filthy. Covered with slag and soot. The paint was bad all around the welds. Points (bad welds) don't coat with paint. Its a film strength thing.

The lapped areas are ready to do some super horrible rusting in just the right way to break a frame.

Take off the slag with a hammer and chisel and wire wheel and paint/ undercoat it. I go for the "tar" type, as i'm too lazy to get under there with one of the wax types as often as they need to be replaced. Though I just used paint on all my drive line to make it look presentable. Really kind of surprised by the finish quality under the truck. Worse than my 82 (which broke in half right behind the cab)

I'm going to rinse the joints in OSPHO and anywhere else that's rusty or unpanited and then hit it with either a good paint or an undercoat, or both.


Something else to look for. I had contact patches on the cab where it hit the frame during assembly or something. Had to treat that too. As well, the inner fenders on the front had big patches of just thin base coat prone to chipping quickly. I undercoated that.

 

Frames are produced by Dana corp, (atleast they were until Cali plant closed)
Same that produces frames for US truck makers. The difference is the process used for Toyota frames (Tacoma, Tundra, Sequoia).

 

FRIGGEN GREAT

 

I agree with island808, these frames should last longer than they do, with no maintenance, even without paint on them. Good quality steel should last 20 years with no protection, even in salty areas, surface rust sure, but disintegration? Shouldn't happen, imo.

 

Well, dana corp isn't a foundry.. That's where the difference starts.

 

Yup.. good steel will not rust trough under normal circumstances. It'll just rust powder for decades.
Land rovers have similar problems. We use waxoyl on em. Its just paraffin and diesel or something.. But it has to be applied every few years.. or more. It penetrates those lapped joints and rivet heads...
Think I'm going to do it. Not great stuff.. but, paint (just some decent spray paint and a "rust converter" for those of us with new trucks.. followed by wax oil. Be right up there with GM frames when you're done.

Think this isn't much of a DIY forum.. but just in case...

Found a recipe:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

IT HAS TO BE APPLIED SLIGHTLY WARM.. do not use fire to get it warm... please use a double boiler type setup. Get a 5 gallon (or whatever) bucket full of hot water.

Good luck with your future tacoma endeavors.. I'm out of this forum... in search of a more adventurous and pragmatic one.

 

I would return that truck to the dealer

 

Anyone had problems with Skid Plates, Live in the North East and Skid Plate started rusting 6 months after owned. Anyone have this issue, Talked with Toytoa to replace but told me to have delear just repaint.

With having a Metal Fab background I sanded it down and metal is spotty?

 

x2 I just painted a little mine. Everything rusts, including the diffs, and various parts on engine.

 

POR 15 for the bare metal parts and bit by bit, one section or component at a time, as much as possible, everything else gets a good cleaning and a coat of tremclad, all with a brush so it's good and thick. Messy Sh#%ty job. If you're working on something like suspension, paint it while it's apart; if it's not the body color or visable, paint it with a brush. Keep the tremclad handy. Once you accept your fate it becomes easier to move forward.

I guess my real point in this thread is we've already lost. We all thought that we were buying high quality trucks and we all were prepared to pay a premium price for them. Yes it's true that even as they are the Tacoma is still better than the big three domestics, but my reality is that for what I paid for this thing, it has fallen far short of my expectations. There just isn't anything else out there I'd spend that kind of money on. Getting ourselves in a froth over it after the fact will just cause ulcers.

Toyota knows this was an issue. Is that not one of the reasons they moved production to another plant? Toyota is not going to bend over backwards for anyone on this issue short of your frame about to snap in half. Had they not recieved so much bad press the last year or two they might have had the energy to deal with this and other issues. Right now any public aknowledgement of another "problem" would hit the press like blood in the water.

With any luck going forward with production in a different plant under a different arrangement, not to mention a clear and strong message from the public that we all want quality foremost, they will return to building what we asked for.

Meanwhile where did I put that friggin' paint brush?

 

What is this "winter" thing you speak of???

 

Comes right after Hurricane season

 

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Heres another:

Ingredients

• 2 (6.5 ounce) cans minced clams, with juice
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon dried parsley
• ground black pepper to taste
• 1/4 tablespoon dried basil
• 1 (16 ounce) package linguini pasta

Directions

1. Cook pasta according to package directions.
2. Meanwhile prepare the sauce. Combine clams with juice, butter or margarine, vegetable oil, minced garlic, parsley, basil, and pepper in a large saucepan. Place over medium heat until boiling. Serve warm over pasta.

Oh wait! Thats linguine with clam sauce...