4xFort Build Thread - previously Frame Swap

Nice, yeah I mean it’s only $100 more to add the tranny mount in this buy.

 

It's like anything else, maintenance maintenance maintenance, but nothing better about lt until you drive hard enough.

 

Um, I got the motor mounts for $325. It would be another $325 for the tranny mount. I got mine used off of a guy parting out his truck for $100. The 4x innovations one is $100ish new.

 

Huh may be I am recalling wrong. Whoops

 

Obtained the '98 frame! I'll be hauling it off to sandblast before welding, then back for the powdercoat... Hmmm what color should I get it done? I'm thinking black, blue, green, or red.

err, I think your truck is missing some parts there...?

 

Green like the $ you'll be throwing at it

How much?

 

You should get sparkles on it, like a majestic sparkly blue lol

 

Finally sandblasted and dropped off for welding of the rear plates. Just an FYI for anyone, you can fit a frame in a 17' uhaul. Just. Barely.

Lol when I picked it up I asked "why is it grey?" I thought they had primer coated it or something. Nope. Just super fresh raw steel!

Looks like I might be hauling it to Seattle to do the frame swap at the end of the month. Oof. Will have to build a rack to carry it with and will look super derpy.

 

I'm thinking red, blue, or green. I kinda doubt the base/standard priced colors include sparkles hahaha!

 

You need hella pearl and metal flack lol

 

I would suggest,wax coating the inside the rails..most manufacturers are using this type of protection at the factory.
Rust needs oxygen to live.....the wax seals the metal from the oxygen.
Just a suggestion....

 

What all should I plan on needing to replace along the way? Bolts, components, etc... I'm afraid that the body/bed mount bolts are going to be unsalvageable, but I won't know until I dig in. But I'll likely be in Moab where I'm not sure that I'll be able to get replacement parts quickly.
I just did the driver side LCA and I'm suspecting that I'll need to replace things like that along the way. Or just hacking the old frame apart to get those pieces out without cutting them...

 

You can get replacement parts from Camelback Toyota or Partznet.com pretty quickly as long as you have a mailing address where you're at.

 

Welding done.

 

About to get this actually underway! Found a place to do this finally! I've still debating what to put in for rear suspension and it seems like the best option might be a cantilevered setup; we can do it for a rather reasonable cost.

Now, MCM Fab makes one for the Tundra but not the 1st Gen Tacos:
http://stores.mcmfablv.com/00-06-tundra-rear-cantilever-kit/

Does anyone have any experience with something like this? I'll be setting myself up to go longer, but not quite full on LT (gusseting things and doing more welding before getting it powder coated), getting custom Deavers, King 3-way bypass so we can tune the rear to compensate for the progressive changes caused by the 2:1 lever motion, etc.

What should I watch out for? What could be done to improve such a design? This beats notching the frame to put them outboard of the frame, and also beats going inboard where the angles would get all funky and decrease the shock's effectiveness/efficiency.

Also, what all should I be getting gussetted before the powder coat for creating maximum strength in case I do actually do LT...? Were going to do the attachment points for the U&LCA mounting points, move sliders, reinforce for rear bumper, and set up the front end for the ARB bumper to be transfered.

 

I don't know any other companies than LSK that have made a canti rear setup for first gens, but you'd be looking at double the cost of the MCM Tundra kit most likely. There's pictures of a few setups online, but most of them are home-made. If you went that route, you would most likely get 17-18" of travel, which would be long travel numbers if you went with a bolt on front kit. If you're getting a front long travel kit, just get a Tundra rear axle and you can run shocks outside of the frame w/o notching. As far as gusseting now, you'd really need to know what you're doing suspension wise to start reinforcing the frame besides rear frame plates and boxing in the engine perches.

 

As for the cost, the person wants to do it for materials cost so they can create a kit for these trucks. I'd be the test run. So no more than half the mcm tundra kit, obviously not including the shocks.

I'm not 100% sure what I'll do up front but it'll be after I've dealt with the swap and the rear end. Just wanting to get as much welded to the frame before the coating since that stuffs a pain to remove. Might eventually do LT up there but it's not my immediate priority.

Anyone have any sources that would help me understand the geometries and what goes into creating a cantilevered setup? I've been reading some stuff on Google and there's just more geometry and dampening curves to factor in.

 

Look in the long travel section, if I remember right there was a guy who makes custom ones at a shop he works at

 

It's going to take a lot of research to get all the components dialed in. Here's a good start on the basics:

https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/t...mezzanine-rear-suspension-how-to.50695/page-4

 

Wow.