Frame swaps?

The real question is is the frame already stripped down to just the frame or is there the cab and driveline still attached?

 

I came across this guy some time ago ...

https://quadcities.craigslist.org/pts/d/new-liberty-toyota-tundra-tacoma-frames/7178825112.html

 

I will say doing a SAS at the same time would make the job much easier

 

its all still together, wrecked sitting iN his yard he doesn’t quite seem like he wanted to go through it all so I imagine I’d have to go pull it apart. If that happens I’d try and get a list of things that people would want to buy and

 

I read jbrandts comments and don't entirely agree. We are all entitled to have an opinion but I live in Ohio where cars rust all to hell but most wind up in the junk yards because they are wore out. We still get 200000 miles out of a Tacoma but the biggest difference between here and California is ours are completely shot where as in California you can slap another motor in and keep on going.
Tacoma's are one of the worst for rusting out. There is no excuse for what I have seen with them and Toyota not correcting that problem. My 2017 with 27000 miles is already getting rusty underneath even with me constantly spraying the salt off the frame in the winter. Its also had their treatment the dealership's have been doing to protect the frames which is a joke.
You see a lot of Taurus and Escorts with the suspensions falling out from rust but very few trucks have from problems like the Tacoma. There's F150s running around with the beds sagging from the floors rusting out but the frames are still solid. Count yourself lucky if you don't live in a rust belt state.

 

any one ever seen that catalog for Land Rover aftermarket parts and accessories? I saw one a while ago and you know what it had?
Stainless Steel replacement frames for old Land and Range Rovers. If I was ever gonna build one it would be 304 or 316 stainless.

Crazy I know, but talk is cheap.......

 

Curious, did you ever do a fluid film treatment?

 

Waiting on our lord and savior of rust, Jay, to roll thru and school everyone. Word has been said too much in here for him not to show

 

Then how come the Chevys that come down here have their back half sections almost in half and the whole rear emergency drum brake set ups rusting out. Ford I've seen a plenty from up N with rust issues like crazy around control arm mounts and rear leaf shackle mounts, trans crossmembers. I can go on and on especially with unibody cars we can't lift without the feet going through the damn things. Toyota is the only manufacturer to issue any sort of "recall" and the history of that was from some old ass 1st gens that were like 15+ yrs old in a class action lawsuit no other manufacturer has done so. Same when the 2nd gens got it and they proactively saw rust on 3rd gens and went ahead and issued those where is the big 3 doing anything like that.

The only "factory" vehicles with a solid axle in the front are the 3/4 and 1 ton ford and dodges if you are looking at adapting those frames to the tacoma. Then you run into horrible suspension designs for anything other than mud bogging. If you want a SAS truck best route is to build a custom frame it'll allow you to adjust the width of the rails and the kickups front and rear higher and move everything around to get as best a compromise as possible with setting up your links or leafs or whatever. It'll also allow you to possibly move the engine back some tighter to the firewall. This would be the most ideal as you can really make something slick with an little compromises as possible due to constraints of a premade frame from XYZ manufacturer.

 

That was a toyota Pickup from 93 not a tacoma unless you're mistaken of the yrs. The similarities of the 85 frame on with a 93 body is very very close so that's very "simple", if you will, swap as compared to a 1st gen tacoma onto a colorado frame where everything is completely different.

 

Partially disagree with rust belt statement:

The major problem is not the water nor the rain/snow/wind/etc.
The major problem IS the salt on the roads.

 

And people who don't undercoat....

 

I've been told undercoating can void some warranties. I stand corrected. Salt is the culprit on our roads here along with that blue stuff they are spraying on the roads now. It seems cars and trucks are rusting even worse now the last few years,
You should have seen my 2004 Corolla S I sold a couple years ago that I bought new. 160000 Ohio miles and the back half of the car was rusted apart everywhere. The trunk had flow thru ventilation with the wheel wells and rear quarters rusted apart and I had to stop driving it when the gas tank started to fall out of it and there wasn't much left to attach it to. It still ran great. The car was still rust free until you got to the back doors and then everything was shot. The trunk would only open from the inside and my gas door even fell off. The drivers door was even rubbing from the body being so far gone and flexing. I bought the Corolla to replace the 86 Mazda B2200 I had been driving on Ohio roads 14 years. Same thing with rust. The Mazda was rust proofed and didn't matter. I sold it when it wasn't safe to drive anymore from all the cab mounts rusting apart. It also had 160000 miles. You have to love Ohio winters.

 

That was covered in subsequent comments. Some of it is because of the boxed frames. Some might say it's an "inferior" design, but as I said it's simply that the road salt was not a primary design consideration for the frames.

I've also posted links that suggest the idea of "very few other vehicles" having rust problems is a gross underestimate of the situation.

While Toyota's primary issue is the frames, all other manufacturers have had major issues with brakes, suspension, (and frames, too, as I posted examples of), etc... All things that are just as critical as a frame.

Maybe there are manufacturers out there who specialize in winter-proof vehicles (snowcat maybe?) but it's pretty clear that most manufacturers don't do the greatest job at fully protecting a vehicle from road salts. It is effectively impossible to do so, at least from a business standpoint.

To me, it seems like this, along with environmental concerns, would be motivation to advocate for a different type of agent to apply to roads in winter.

 

Give me Salt any day over the liquid brine !!

That is brutal .

Gotta have Ice and Snow free Roads the minute the Blizzard stops.

For what ever reason Last Winter was bad I have no clue if the Liquid Brine was not diluted as much.

The Liquid Brine got sprayed and the weather event never happened quite often.

It just ate right through well painted surfaces I had no problems with before

 

The worst thing out my way this year for some godforsaken reason they are using a salt brine solution for dust control on the gravel roads IN THE SUMMER!!! Goddamn bastards must be getting paid by the auto industry to expedite our vehicles trip to the scrapyard.

 

They have now rigged up ports that spray that stuff on to our overpasses, and they now treat even before any snow on the roads, so you are constantly running in that crap.

 

Last Winter it was applied so many times with no moisture in any form so it gets built up get a little rain and the brine is now super concentrated .

Last spring I saw far more rust in painted well protected areas then ever before .

 

Maybe someone should engineer a cheap and effective way to keep the roads heated above freezing temps. The railroads use heaters on on the switches up north to prevent them from freezing. Completely different scenario since they're private companies and not taxpayer funded. Not to mention that's essentially spot treatment on rails rather than an entire road. Just a thought. Thankfully I don't have to worry about anything other than some minor surface rust down here in the peach state.