Frame warranty campaign

Just swap the entire powertrain. You’d be happier. Leave the Toyota body and interior. Maybe swap the ford bumpers over. Then it would be pretty badass

 

Foryota or Toyord?

 

Foryota ftw

 

I wish my frame was covered.....I have a section that is rusted through that I am getting repaired before winter....my whole truck is pretty toasty but I'm going to limp it along for as long as I can

 

I parked my STi in Maryland for 100 or so days and it was locked in place at the rotors like I had the ebrake on.

 

I feel for ya man. My buddy had a 98 that got bought back, back in 07-08. Thing was toasted. Even the bed was rotted out. He only has it a year or so. Thing was an awesome truck, sad that he couldn’t enjoy it longer.

 

Yeah I don't know what I'm going to do when I have to replace the poor little beast....

 

2006 NUMMI Plant (Cali.) New frame 1.5 years ago. Perforated at the transition from box to channel.
Just letting you know that 2006 NUMMI AC are also affected. I don't think final assembly point matters. All the frames are made in the same location.

 

I simply wait for a warmer day to RINSE the undercarriage. Since I pressure wash and degrease the undercarriage late spring and apply Fluid Film in Sept. Im not worried about corrosion when its below freezing. One of the best properties of FF is that it gets really thick in cold and thin in hot temps. But I still dont pressure wash in winter, rinse only and it stays on because FF is more like wax below 40. Above 80 it blasts off taking the crud with it but still leaves a thin protective film untill I apply new FF in the fall.

 

On second thought this may be ziebart coating not the Toyota service campain reccomended CRC to qualify for extended frame rust warranty. Ziebart is rubberized and notorious for hiding rust and locking in moisture.

 

the person who posted this picture has only had his truck for a few months i think and has not checked into records or are unknown
if Toyota coated it then it should show up running the VIN or something like that somewhere?
i have never seen this coating up close personally yet so i am unsure

 

You reposted this pic from OP He has since stated he checked with Toyota and it was CRC but past 15 year extended warranty

 

yes, just read their response!

 

See my sig.

 

now i am curious if the 3rd gen frame paint is equivalent to the 1st gen paint.
I did some experimenting with this loctite naval jelly (which was not very effective at all for what i needed it to do)

but when i spread it over parts of the good old factory paint the black paint started sizzling from some chemical reaction i have no knowledge of
i rinsed it off with water and some bare steel poked through and the next day started flash rusting

 

Glad some more model years are getting something from Toyota. Dropping my truck off for a new frame on Sunday night.

 

So Gen 1's were bought back for rotted frames. Gen 2's were inspected and some frames replaced. Now Gen 3's are suspect.

Is there any indication this was fixed in 2019 or new 2020 ?

 

http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Naval_Jelly_Rust_Dissolver

"A registered trademark for a commercial rust remover. Naval Jelly contains water (65-70%), acid phosphoric acid (25-30%) and acid sulfuric acid (1-3%) in a gel matrix composed of a thixotropic polysaccharide (1-3%), alcohol isopropanol (1-3%), surfactant (1-3%) and silica (0.1-1%). The phosphoric acid dissolves the rust (iron oxide) and then reacts to form phosphate iron phosphate. The iron phosphate provides a thin protective coating to minimize further oxidation. For treatment with Naval Jelly , the pink gel is brushed on the metal surface, allowed to stay for 5-20 minutes, then rinsed off. The acids are then neutralized with a bicarbonate baking soda paste. In addition to removing rust, Naval Jelly is used to prepare iron and steel surfaces for painting."

So make sure you wear gloves and if working underneath a face shield or at least glasses. Wash it off your skin...

After you have wire brushed/wire wheeled/scotchbrite pad/sanded or whatever method you use to remove the majority of the rust you use either naval gel or metal prep to neutralize the rust in the fine pits before you paint the surface.

 

This is a couple quick pics of the frame on my 2017, any brown you see in these pics is from mud or in the case of the top of the shock bolts it's Fluid Film buildup.

I live in southern Ontario and they put rock salt real heavy on the roads here,
turns the truck into one big salt lick in the winter.

As you can see... no corrosion at all, sorry I only have a crappy Iphone for pics though...



Less visible corrosion on this truck than when it was brand new. It's due for it's annual fall fogging BTW.

I fog from the engine compartment to inside and outside the frame and body panels with ACF-50, the high water splash areas I give a very light spray from a can of Fluid Film and Fluid film on the Leaf springs generously.

Once a week in the winter I go to one of those hand wash places and give the truck a low pressure rinse on the underside and a high pressure rinse on the topside.

I have a 18 year old Civic and a 50 year old Camaro the same way. (Though the Camaro never has seen a winter in 40 years).

Long story short, no factory system is going to keep your frame rust free,
if you live in a salt belt... Oil it or loose it.

Even an annual spray in the nooks and crannys with a spray bottle filled with ATF will work better than the Factory CRC fix that is only applied once. (and not everywhere).

 

Got my letter Saturday. At work, so I can't pull anything off of it from memory other than it applies to my '17 Sport, and it's in certain states, I presume those that get road treatment in winter. I'll provide more details later today or tomorrow.