Frankenstein Build: Stock -> 37's on IFS -> SAS

Don't tempt me with those 37s...

 

Trust me, you NEED them ;D

 

Yeah, but if I order TrailReady Beadlocks today, they won't be here for like 6 months

 

Good thing I'm also selling my beadlocks! You can have them tomorrow
I will agree tho, TR beadlocks are much higher quality then my ProComps

 

It's super tempting, definitely going to keep these in mind. I've seen my dad's TR Beadlocks for both his FJC and ultra45 racetruck he's building and the quality is insane on those.

Maybe @Fernando will buy them off you and full send mid travel and 37s

 

If you decide to get them I'll do a package deal for you since I won't have to take the wheels off the tires. $2100 for everything.

 

Having had TR and now pro comp beadlocks, the pro comps are just as beef and more than adequate for anything you would do in a full bodied Tacoma. I dig them! Those MT2s are the shit as well. Not a bad deal for sure! GLWS!

 

If they made a 8x170mm version I would buy them. I definitely don't hate them. And I am absolutely getting the 40" MT2's for the SAS, I love this tire.

 

Can't buy anything but goddamn your welds are super nice.

 

I was thinking the same thing lol

 

What's the spec on the wheels? Sorry if I missed it. I do need new tires. My coopers are at 50%. Need to sell them while I can. Lol

 

Lol thanks! My good buddy is the welder for Nguyen Works so he's been slowly showing me how to lay beads. Here are some LCAR's I did for my neighbor a few days ago:





Still things I can improve on but I was pretty stoked with those.

 

I believe these are the specs:
-Genuine Beadlock
-Wheel Size: 17x9
-Bolt Pattern: 6x5.5
-Finish: Satin Black
-Max Load:3650 lbs

As far as backspacing and offset I am not 100% sure. I'd have to measure them. It's nothing crazy, I have to run 1.5" spacers for the width I have.

 

Awesome work for sure. Never heard of them but really love their website.

 

They mostly cater to the 5th gen 4runner market lol

 

Started getting the ol guy stripped down today. This was a bitter sweet day. On one hand I am STOKED for a full width SAS Tacoma, on the other hand I know this will be a LONG project, I'm removing all the hard work I've already done, and I am remembering all the good times Frank has given the wife and I. Hopefully I can get it all back together so we can continue with those adventures.

Anyway, enough sappy stuff, on to the manly things:

The rear is out! Got the axle, springs, and misc bits all removed. I'll get to cutting the OEM spring mounts out sometime next week. I'll be running Chevy 63's for the flex.



Front is just about done too. I only need to pull the front diff and steering rack out. Steering rack is 90% out but my work alarm went off before I could get to that last top bolt. I'm thinking the bumper and winch will need to go as well. Should I sell my current bumper and make my own.... hmmm?



Once I get all that out I'll run down to my local metal supplier and get some rectangular tubing. I'm hoping I can get the OEM front cut out and rebuild it out of thicker mild steel this month. I'll need to re do motor mounts and a few other small things but overall shouldn't be that bad.

My grandpas poor shed is jam packed with ALL my truck parts now! Thankfully he never uses it. I also spent my high school summers helping him clean it and organize it. Part of me helping him clean it was I got to use it when I need more space, and here we are . If you think it looks packed now, you should have seen it 5 years ago... so. many. dump. runs.






More Parts For Sale:

I still have parts for sale too! See post 200 for the details. I'm adding rotors/calipers and what are believe are 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers to the list. 2 of the spacers are hub centric, 2 are not.

Prices:
Both Rotors/Calipers: $100; $60 each
All 4 Spacers: $150; $50 each:







Hopefully I can get some of these big items like the wheels, tires, axle, and front diff out of here soon to clear up some space!

Some random thoughts:

One down side to working at my grandparents is that the only flat, gated pad they have is just dirt. They used to park a large trailer here so it never needed to be paved. I've done a many a project here so it doesn't really bother me anymore but it can be a bit annoying when you're trying to slide the jack around. I make due with some plywood for now but when I have WAY more money and time the plan is to concrete this section and install a car lift

On the other hand, working here has some great benefits too! For one, is my grandma ALWAYS has fresh cookies. Then my grandpa is always here to lend a hand (if he can), and perhaps the best part, THIS HOUSE HAS A POOL!



There is absolutely NOTHING better than finishing a hot sweaty day by jumping in the nice cool water!

Thanks for stopping by, again

 

Save yourself and your lungs a ton of work and just chop the frame. Way less grinding and if you want decent uptravel with a low frame height you’ll end up remaking or notching the crap out of the frame. And unless you go full hydro, look at using a jeep jk steeeing box. Outside the frame mount. Stronger and more aftermarket support. The Toyota boxes are notorious for leaking

 

I am chopping the frame. After reading through a lot of SAS threads I concluded chopping the frame is WAY easier then meticulously cutting all that IFS stuff out.

Oh interesting! I have a FJ80 steering box laying in my garage I was gonna trade at Yotamasters for a drilled and tapped IFS box. Maybe I should just sell it and go with a Jeep box? What's funny is my 1 ton Jeep neighbor replaced his Jeep box with a Yoda one haha.

 

I went with a tj/lj box that mounts inside the frame. Unless your willing to chip the core support and everything else your kind of stuck doing an outside the frame box. Id look at using a newer jk box from psc with the big bore and hydro assist lines. Not cheap but stupid strong and won’t leak after a few wheeling trips.