Frankenstein Build: Stock -> 37's on IFS -> SAS

I've seen it in your build thread! Definitely a pretty cool way of doing it. I'll look in to what it'll take to do a Jeep box but I'll probably end up going with the free IFS box from Yotamasters lol. I can always change it down the road! That's the beauty of fabri-cobbling

 

You can kind of change it but doing so will require a metric shit ton of work and probably cutting the section of the frame out to land a new box. Getting the steering box location right is probably one of the biggest parts of a solid axle swap because you can’t just grind it off like you can a link mount and relocate.

 

Quoted for truth. The part I hated the most about my SAS was building my steering box mount. I hate my current steering box, but I am living with it because I don't want to mess with it again. It took FOREVER to design and build it, but it's probably the strongest part of my entire front frame.

 

Axle, Skid Plate, and Coilovers are sold! Now I'm off to buy gears and a locker for the axles. I'll be running 5.38's with a Spartan locker in the front and a Yukon Grizzly in the rear.
And since we're talking gears I found this very interesting; look at the difference between the Ford 10.5 Pinion and the Yota 8" Pinion! Both are 4.10's:



I think it would take quite a bit of force to break that guy...



As far as the build goes, I was able to get the front diff, steering rack, and both driveshafts out today. If anyone wants a leaking steering rack it's yours for free



Next week I'll start chopping stuff up! I'm hoping to get the rear built as soon as my Barnes order ships out. I'll be following what @Yota X did https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ugly-gold-4-door-hoor-sas.753616/#post-26852763 as we have the same springs and axles.
Once I sell my wheels and tires (wink wink @cbechtold) I'll place an order for triple Bypases and front Coilovers. I'll be going with Locked Offroad as I am a dealer for him. I'm thinking 14" all around. Should be a good month!

 

I didn't realize how much everyone hates mounting their steering boxes haha. Just curious, what was difficult about it? From what I've been looking at it seems pretty straight forward, am I missing something?

 

It's tedious, you need to sleeve the frame, and plate the hell out of it and the placement is a ton of trial and error. Toyotas also have the habit of ripping the boxes off the frame if you don't crazy beef them up. I have at least 20hrs of fabrication and welding time invested in that portion of the build alone.

 

It’s straight forward till you start cycling suspension and steering etc. there’s a lot going on with the steering. Not far enough forward/back you have issues. The angle it needs. The misalignment needed at droop. Matching the pan hard. Steering position at the knuckle for more or less steering. Steering is what makes setting up a sas hard. If you went full hydro it would be way easier but then there’s that full hydro driving on the street argument.

 

Geez... 20hr on one little part. I can't wait

I was considering full hydro but this will be my extra daily and I don't have a trailer so it'll need to drive to every trail I go to.

I'm hoping my tubed front end helps. I won't need to cut sheet metal and I'll have a littler more space in there to work.

 

Been working away and spending some money this weekend!
1st things 1st, I've sold everything but the wheels, LCA's, spacers, and brakes. If anyone wants anything, DM me.

This weekend I splurged and got gears, rear locker, and all the rear axle hardware I need! Orders pictured for future reference. I'll be running a U-Bolt eliminator kit which my buddy is cutting out and bending at his work for me. As soon as all this shows up I'll get the rear in!





TRUSSING!
In bigger news, I started installing the truss on my front Axle! I took it to my buddies who is a GREAT welder and also has a Miller 252. I don't have a welder powerful enough for steel this thick and I DO NOT trust myself welding to cast.

Little test fit, looks great! We had to modify the outer C's a little but overall the Barnes low pro truss fits pretty good!:


Welding in the short tube. Cast is some DIRTY metal!:



The truss needed a little trimming to clear the weld but a grinder made quick work of that:


Then with some pointers from my friend I went to town on the mild stuff (I want to note, the Miller 252 is sooo nice to weld with):


Once I got the mild done my friend took over on the cast. I pre-heated it with my Oxy-Acetylene torch and he laid the dimes. I then post-heated it and wrapped it all in a blanket for cooling.





Then we flipped it over and started getting the top welded in.


We ran out of time before we finished it 100% but we are pretty close! Installing the Barnes truss is not too difficult, it's just fairly time consuming with all the pre-heating, welding, post-heating, and cooling. It took about 45 mins for the cast to cool down after each weld.


KNUCKLES
While my buddy was welding the cast I started working on the knuckles:




I got the blown out ball joints pressed out and sand blasted the section we will be welding the Barnes high steer to (not pictured). Should have all the front stuff done in a week or so. I'll be sending it out to powder coat as soon as we're done welding which should give everything a great, long-lasting finish!

 

Bought myself a new toy today:


A good ol Vulcan MigMax 215 from Harbor Freight. I found some old listing for it on OfferUp asking $600. I figured it was heavily used (as it had been listed for over a year) so I offered $500 and he agreed. Little did I know it was still brand new! Never used! I'd say that's a pretty good score! There is a strong possibility it was stolen as I bought it in the middle of Compton at 1AM and the guy I purchased it from had some weird vibes, but I made it out unscathed and I just couldn't pass up that price

The 1st thing I did was get a new cable for it. It had like an 8' 14ga cable but I upgrade it to a 25' 10g cable.


It came with a 5lb spool of wire and but I usually run an 11lb one. Thankfully the adapter for an 11lb spool from my old Lincoln fit right in the Vulcan, so I can run my bigger spool.


And finally some test welds! I'm VERY comfortable with the Lincoln 140 but I knew I'd need more power and penetration for building the truck. This welder definitely has that. I need to get used to the feel and work on dialing in some settings, but overall I don't think the welds were too bad for my very 1st time running this welder:




But most importantly, it penetrates 3/8 steel! Lot's of my new components are 3/8 which the ol Lincoln just couldn't handle.
Also, take note of my very very 1st welds ever! Flux core with the Lincoln 140 baby Those beautiful welds are holding on both my front bumper and rock sliders

I can't wait to get some more hours in on this guy!

 

Gotta love a new welder day!

 

High steer is welded up! Had my buddy help out with these since they were cast as well. I'd say they came out pretty good








My RuffStuff order shipped today as well, hopefully I can start getting that rear axle in soon!

 

Ruffstuff order came in... I can start getting the rear axle in now!

 

Nice dude! I've been looking to upgrade to a better welder and that thing looks great! Maybe I can find a good deal like you . Love the truck!

 

So far it's been pretty nice. I guess we'll see how it lasts in the long run... Thanks!

 

Started getting my rear axle in this weekend!

Hangers got welded up and tacked in. I'm still learning the 220V settings, these are a little hot but not too bad IMO. I'm not used to all that extra amperage haha.



Now I'm trying to figure out my optimal shackle angle. According to this image I should be perpendicular with the spring center line:


I'm pretty close to that. If anything it may need to scoot forward a little:



I've also heard that having it a little further back will help clear the 40's and give a little more flex.
Regardless, I followed @Yota X 's advise and moved the front hanger ~6.75" forward from the original mount:


If I could get some input on that it would be appreciated.
I'm following either @slander or @malburg114 's (can't remember who wrote it) advice by tacking everything until I'm 100% satisfied. Makes changing things a LOT easier.



In other exciting news, the gears showed up! Should be able to start the regear in the next month or so. Should be fun...


I also scored 2 Pipe Jacks for $75 from an alder gentleman in my town. Makes working on the rear WAY easier!

 

100 percent tac everything till done. I don’t fully weld anything till I’m cycled and All I have to do is paint after weld. You’ll be surprised how many times you have to change or move things.

I don’t remember how far forward my front hanger is. When I did mine the inter webs said to shoot for a 45 degree shackle angle with weight. I centered the leaf spring center hole with a plumb bob. Tacd everything at full droop essentially then put the weight on it and went just for under 45 degrees to allow for spring settle.

 

I can already tell I'll be pulling a lot of stuff off and redoing it haha.

Ok cool, I heard that too. I'll be getting my U bolt eliminator kit soon and I'll be able to throw the axle under it and put weight on it. Hopefully it sits around 45°

 

Tac everything, you are on the right path. A 45* shackle is the rule of thumb to start with. Read this: https://irate4x4.com/threads/shackle-length-v-angle.384402/

 

Don’t do u bolt eliminators. Cool idea but the threads stretch so much and require so much maintenance it’s not worth it. I have to chase mine with a tap everytime I take a bolt out and ultimately pulled the threads out of almost all of them. So now I’m just running a bolt with a nut on the bottom but wish they were u bolts because it’s ultimately easier