Frankenstein Build: Stock -> 37's on IFS -> SAS

Powdercoat on links huh?

 

Yessir! I get a pretty sweet deal on matte black through one of my buddies. I just got them back yesterday, I'll post pics soon!

 

Uh huh…I’d hope it was a good deal since lower links get obliterated pretty much immediately

 

Would you consider Free.99 a good deal?

 

Work has been slow on this guy over the past few months. My side job has started taking over a lot of my free time but that doesn't mean I've done nothing!

To start I'm working on the rear bump stop set up. It uses a TKO rear 4Runner bump stop kit with threaded Locked Offroad bump stops:


It fits nicely under the outboard shock hoop:


And will utilize the u-bolt plate/strike pad I drew up and sent for laser cutting:



I decided to pull the axle out to finish up welding and start regearing:


I took the time to make some shock mounts that I believe will be strong enough and small enough to work with my coilovers. My 1st 2 iterations had some issues I couldn't look past and didn't feel comfortable running. I feel a lot better about these:


With the axle out I figured it was also a good time to send the links out for powder-coating. I just went with the cheapest option (free!), matte black which Honestly looks pretty good!


And finally I've been fighting with this stupid steering box rebuild! I noticed the top threaded piece was stripped while I was taking it apart:


I couldn't figure out how to get it out of the shaft to replace it, so I spent way too long making a custom tool!


It worked surprisingly well and I was able to pull the threaded piece out without any issue:


After I got it out I took a closer look at it, a closer look at the piece it threaded in to (also stripped), and decided to just grab another steering box:


This one is in much better condition and was recently rebuilt as well! I'll drill and tap it just like the other one and that should solve my steering issues!

Getting this done by summer time is looking less and less possible but I will continue to crank away when I can!

 

Got the steering box put back together! It has all new seals and I was able to replace the broken parts with the donor box I bought. I guess the next step with this guy is installing it and seeing if it leaks.


I also picked up the laser cut parts. Below are the strike pad plates for the rear bump stop kit:

And my Shock Mounts are done as well:



I plan to install them tonight and see how they fit.

 

Got my new part welded up!

U Bolt plate strike pads came out sweet! We will be releasing a full rear bump kit for 1st gen Tacomas on our website soon so stay tuned if you're interested:



My new coilover mounts should be much stronger too! They tie in to the axle tube itself and I'm not worried about them breaking off so much any more. I still need to weld them to the axle but I'll have my much better welder friend do that for me:



I finally started the Dana 60 Regear! I was a little intimidated by this at 1st but after starting it it's not so bad. The key was buying a set of cheap bearings to use for set up. It's currently sitting at .07" of backlash which should be perfect! I'm waiting for my solid pinion spacer so I can set the pinion depth. I'll also be sending both axles out for powder coat soon:

 

Bump stop kit worked perfectly!

 

Thoughts on a radiator this size? Think it'll cool the 5vz pushing 40's? I have no plans for a supercharger or anything crazy that'll push more power. This size should fit perfectly in the space I have and not hang down in to the axle.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about radiator size on the stock motor. I know plenty of guys on 40s with the 3.4 on stock rad.
Biggest thing is just don't bash it on a rock lol

 

Why not grab a Denso made for a 3rz? The issue with the one you post is finding a hose that will fit snug because the hose on tacoma are shy of 1" ID IIRC.

I'm running beadlocks with 40s, DC with campershell, Front and rear bumpers, supercharger, and is heavy AF with typical CA central valley summer temp exceeding 105° without issue on the 3rz radiator. I drive with my AC on too because I enjoy riding cold and not sweating my ass off.

Just saying

 

That's exactly why I want a smaller one lol

 

I thought about it but it still hangs out in the open about 3-4". I ordered the Champion so we'll see how it works!

 

Not mine.... Mines about an inch. There's 2 part number, 1 sits above and the other 1 sits 1 inch below.

 

Oh interesting. Is it different between the auto and manual one? I know the auto 3.4 rad is a bit taller than the manual one.

 

I have a new goal, get this truck running enough to drive it out of the garage. I recently got myself a 4th gen 4Runner as a daily and I have some things I'd like to do to it in the comfort of the garage as temps start flying above 100°. The wife and I have some long trips planned and I want to make sure the 4R is in good shape before we leave.


So all that means it's cranking time on the Taco!
I ordered everything I need to get it running:
-Chevy 1 ton master Cylinder
-Cevy MC to Toyota booster adapter
-Dana 60 Brake Calipers & pads
-Radesigns triple stick shifters
-Radiator

I still need to mesure for:
-Driveshafts
-Braken lines

While I wait for my parts I figured I'd stop slacking on the regear. That said the Dana 60 regear is done!




Pattern looks pretty good, back lash is sitting at .007", and pinion preload is sitting at 26in/lb. Got the new axle seals installed so all that's left is putting the axle together.

Now don't worry, just cause I'm rushing to get it moving does not mean I'm going to half-ass it. The other reason I want to get it moving is so I can work on tubing the front end at my buddies house. He has has a tube bender and notcher and is a MUCH better welder than I. I was originally going to move all the tooling to my garage but it's too heavy and awkward to be moving all over like that.

 

Getting the hydro assist in was quite the task




I played around with it for about 3 hours testing all sorts of positions and I ended up here. I'm not super happy where it's sitting as it's super low and it gonna get hit by some rocks but it was the only place I could squeeze it in with how tight my 3 link setup is. I'm going to design a little skid plate that welds to the axle to try to protect it as best as I can.

 

Been cranking away on this guy!

Got the Chevy master cylinder in. I bought the Skys Offroad adapter and a Raybestos MC39435 master cylinder.


It all fit great except for the push rod provided. It was about 1" too long so I stuck it in the lathe and machined it to the correct size. I believe this is because some of the GM mc's have a long hole drilled in the piston and the one I got it didn't. It seems like everything is working as expected and I should be able to stop now!


I machined 2 brass misalignments for the pitman arm. I'm going to have a shop machine some out of stainless steel. My lathe is a little too crappy to do stainless. These should at least work for a little but I know the brass will eventually blow out.


With the pitman arm misalignments installed I was able to throw in the drag link. Believe it or not everything fits!! I can turn at full droop, bump, and flex in both directions. It also appears I have the panhard and drag link dialed in with each other as there is almost no bump steer when flexing the axle around.





I got the front axles dismantled and ready for new u-joints and seals. As rusty as they are they came apart pretty easily. I should have all the parts to get these put back together this week. Once these are together I can fully assembly the front axle!



And finally I started the regear on the rear axle. MAN is this carrier heavy! I purchased a solid pinion spacer for it that ended up needing to be machined 50thou shorter. It almost looked like they cut it on the band saw and threw it in the tumbler forgetting to machine it to size. I should have this regeared today or tomorrow.

Next steps are drive shafts! I'm going to measure for the rear one today and get it ordered tomorrow. I'm hoping to have it back in a couple weeks. Once I have it the truck will be just about ready for a test drive! I'm holding off on the front drive shaft until I can make a new transmission crossover.

 

Thoughts on the rear pattern?

 

Your at a decent pattern, but I think you can adjust for a slightly better pattern.

Red arrow: Based on the pattern, your pressure is shifting towards the outer heal of the ring gear.
Blue arrow: Whats your current Pinion depth and backlash? Would like to see the pressure more towards the toe for an aggressive pattern
Black arrow: pressure is getting towards the top of the ring gear, would like to see that move slightly deeper.


What does your pinion pattern look like, that will help tell if you have room for adjustments or not.

Example from my rear diff I rebuilt: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/project-dbl-blk-◇-by-toyryd.357381/page-24#post-25901124