Front 5100s vs Nitrochargers?

The anti-sway bar ties the suspension together. With many lifts the heavier coils will make up for much of this and allow greater articulation when it is removed. I recommend keeping the anti-sway bar but it is a heavily debated topic and many are fine without it depending on how the truck is setup and how the person drives. This mostly would become a safety concern with it removed when running at highway speeds or when taking evasive action to avoid something. Though labor intensive one would be best to remove it while off-road then reinstall once they are back on the road. Again a major PITA though.

 

See this is what I was thinking. Since mine is a prerunner I'll never take her super offroading. But I do enjoy "driving her like a truck" and blasting down old shit roads to bounce around a bit. I don't want to have to be like "oh I better baby it over this rough spot".

Most of my driving, otherwise, is highway.

So I want to be able to plow over bumps and crap without breaking my spine or the taco but I also want to be able to have tight control at highway speed without having to worry about it.

The 5100s sound good for control but the nitros sound good for a smooth ride. Hmmm

 

You really can't go wrong with either. I believe the OME is a more heavy duty setup and they have served me well but you would be fine with either.

 

You could do coilovers they are stiff enough to have no sway bar for DD an have the Offroad benefits. I removed mine an I love it truck does great doesn’t sway at much in corners.

 

The general recommendation from those of us with the sway bar removed is to only remove it if your driving will benefit from it. If you're on stock front suspension, definitely do not remove the sway bar.

 

Alright so here is the big question

Which one would allow the truck to land from a little bit of air without feeling like I'm slamming the shit out of things?

 

LOL, unfortunately neither of these options are going to like that. Now you are getting into King territory. I feel that OME is better quality so I am going to stand behind those regardless against 5100's but you will be fine with either you choose. To answer your question I will say OME but I am sure someone else will say 5100's so it really just comes down to pulling the trigger and getting your lift done.

 

Not going to be trying to do that... but let me tell everyone a story of why I like to be prepared...

2 years ago I got what felt like over a foot of air in my previous car over an unmarked old railroad crossing at night. I was in my 2015 Mazda 3, I was doing 50 in a 50 zone, came around a corner and at the last second I realized "SHIT! WHAT IS THAT" and then VROOOOOM I ride up this unmarked crossing bump and I am pretty sure all 4 tires left the ground. I landed hard enough that it gouged streaks into the road where I landed but SOME HOW THE CAR WAS UNHARMED. Went to the shop first thing in the morning thinking "oh crap she's ruined", they said the only damage they saw was the plastic aerodynamic skid thing was toast and the front alignment was out of wack. I showed them pictures of the road where she slammed into it and they went back to look at the car one more time, but again said there was zero body/frame/shock damage.

SO anyway, I felt like that was all the luck I am ever going to get with cars so I want to be prepared. That's why the first thing I put on the taco was mega auxiliary lights. lol

 

I have a railroad track I hit like that on purpose. I don't think i get much air but it's funny because everyone that drives a normal car has to slow down to walking speed to cross it. Passengers freak out a little when they see I'm not slowing down for it.

I have never had 5100's but I have had my OME lift for 7 years and about 80K miles. It's done it's job and I have no complaints. I don't really think you can go wrong with either

 

I'm thinking the OME's at this point, but I need to decide on the front left amount... past 2.5 you need to change the UCA's I've been told so that adds a whole other level of thought...

 

Honestly even if it requires waiting a little longer and saving a little more you are better off going ahead and replacing the UCA's with any lift. Many people will tell you it is fine and you will not need it but remember the purpose of lifting is beefing up the suspension and making the truck more capable. By leaving a weak component that is at the max range of where it was designed to work you will have problems. Wait, do it right, do it once and then you save yourself getting back in there and dong the UCA's at a later date. Paying for another alignment and so on. There are lots of options on UCA's, plenty of good ones at reasonable prices. I recommend SPC/Light Racing but many other good options also for around the $400 mark.

 

That is a heavly debated topic too. I would change to SPC upper arms anyway on my truck but I like to be able to add way more caster than normal and the ability to dial it in perfect. I'm running 5 degrees now and i like it. anything under 3 degrees and my truck starts wondering all over the road.

 

Plus by the time you get those stupid bolts out of the UCA's it makes the rest of the lift install seem effortless!

 

I disagree on Nitrochargers being far superior, I ran them almost 2 years. They went from yellow to Rust and rode ok. When I threw in the 5100's I didn't get the impression of the nitrochargers being beefier at all and I think the ride better than the nitrochargers. Plus you get a hair more travel out of the 5100's.

 

Was there any word from OME that their shocks are progressive? Honestly curious.
I've been emailing them (ARB), but I feel like they're avoiding the question.

 

Progressive is not always a good thing. Caitlin Jenner is progressive you know!

 

What does it feel like when you fly over old crappy uneven roads loaded with bumps and holes?

Does it feel like your spine is being shattered or does it cushion it out?

 

Smoother I think, but a tad stiffer. I prefer that.

 

See I like stiff for good control... but I don't want to shatter my spine as mentioned before...

I really wish I could try em out, anyone live in Georgia? haha

 

I would do the UCAs at the same time. I didnt need to with only going 2"-2.5", but i figured since i was already spending $1k, its not that much more to add another $300 - just needed to wait another month. Not only do you have the whole suspension apart that time, they make swapping the coilovers much easier, as you dont have to loosen the LCA and mess with the alignment. (Although an alignment is recommended after lifting). I did the SPC LR ones, and they were easy to assemble, and affordable.

Getting the UCA bolts out though is a whole different story. Dont listen to youtube (they lie). Its way harder than just bending the seam out of the way.