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Front/Back Bleeder Screw Size - '96 Taco 4x4 2.7 4cyl

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by pmiller613, Nov 18, 2011.

  1. Nov 18, 2011 at 8:02 AM
    #1
    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    Just finished replacing front brake calipers and today am going to bleed out the system to finish up. The new front calipers came with new bleeder screws of course, but the bleeders on the back are original and I plan to replace them when I do the bleed. Are the back bleeder screws on the drum brakes the same as the ones on the front? Guy at parts store seems to think the back are a different size thread.
     
  2. Nov 19, 2011 at 5:38 AM
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    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    So just to follow up, I ended up going with the new bleeder screws from the parts store that they said would fit the truck. They were entirely too small. After 2 trips back to the store, they still couldn't give me bleeder screws that actually fit the truck. I ended up cleaning the existing ones to get them unclogged and they worked just fine. Furthermore, after bleeding thoroughly and no air coming out of the system, still have very little brakes and a very spongy pedal. No signs of leaks on any of the lines or junctions (or anywhere else), so now I'm hoping its just the master cylinder and not the booster. Have to do a little more diagnosing then will probably need your guys help again. Really hoping I don't have to replace the brake booster.
     
  3. Dec 3, 2011 at 4:02 AM
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    WALKERDD517

    WALKERDD517 New Member

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    Mr Miller,

    i have the same truck and the same problem. Replaced the calipers, bled brakes & still have spongy action. Would like to know what you found out about the master cylinder.
     
  4. Dec 3, 2011 at 5:02 AM
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    toysr5man

    toysr5man Auto thrasher

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    5100 billys, add a leaf, 6.5 ' meyer plow, 265/75/16. diff drop, tundra brake upgrade, wheelers stainless stell braided brake lines, steering column mod
    i would check two things first.

    1 did you try bleeding the load porportion valve above the rear end? it has a bleeder in it, i have a buddy who learned from experience, he had to bleed that to get good brakes. even though he had good fluid at the wheel cylinders it made a big difference.

    2 check your rear brakes. make sure they are adjusted right and the bell crank for the e brake is free. if the arm in that is frozen it wont adjust up when you use the emergency brake.

    i would believe that to be your problem rather than a brake master.
     
  5. Dec 4, 2011 at 5:45 AM
    #5
    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    I have been in the process of moving and haven't had a chance to work on it further. I will check your suggestions, although I don't see how the e-brake could affect the front caliper piston not moving. I will follow up once I've had the chance to work on this further, but may be a few weeks right now.
     
  6. Dec 4, 2011 at 7:53 AM
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    WALKERDD517

    WALKERDD517 New Member

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    Thanks for the Feedback. I blocked of the lines at the Master Cylinder with plugs and the pedal action was hard as a rock. I hooked the brakelines back up again and the pedal went slowly to the floor. I re-bled all 4 brakes, but I haven't done the proportion valve yet but I will give that a try. I am wondering - - will an air leak in the Booster Unit cause this problem ie: Spongy Brakes?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  7. Dec 5, 2011 at 4:23 AM
    #7
    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    Mike, I would think if the problem was in your booster you would still have had spongy pedals when you blocked off the lines... but since the pedal was "rock hard", seems to tell me the problem is between the MC and Brakes. Please also keep me informed on what you learn as you go as I am now behind you in diagnosis
     
  8. Dec 5, 2011 at 6:05 AM
    #8
    Kuneff

    Kuneff Carpe Diem

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    100% on the load valve.. Little sucker hides right up on the inside of the driver side frame rail and it haunted me like crazy on my 97. If you don't start with it FIRST, you will never get all the air out of your lines.

    I was to the point of replacing the brake booster, BUT I talked to a few people that told me how to Test the booster, and it passed. I had already changed the Master cylinder since it was my first thought of what was bad.

    YOU MUST bleed the valve First if you want it right...

    Order to bleed..

    1. Load Proportioning Valve
    2. Passanger Rear
    3. Driver Rear
    4. Passanger Front
    5. Driver Front.
     
  9. Dec 6, 2011 at 3:58 AM
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    WALKERDD517

    WALKERDD517 New Member

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    This is totally embarrassing I had the caliper reversed!! Driver side on passenger side and vice versa. The bleeder valve was on the bottom and needs to be on top, otherwise air is trapped. I have had other vehicles where it was impossible to reverse them. Well I learned a lesson this time. Take your time when installing new calipers!!
     
  10. Dec 6, 2011 at 5:47 AM
    #10
    Kuneff

    Kuneff Carpe Diem

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    You will still need to start the bleeding process with the load valve or you will never get all the air out.
     
  11. Dec 6, 2011 at 8:00 AM
    #11
    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks all for this tip! I never knew (like you once) this little sucker was there... I still haven't done it yet... can I follow the line from the MC to find it? Inside of driver side frame rail? And it has a normal bleeder screw correct? This will be great if it fixes my spongyness
     
  12. Dec 6, 2011 at 8:04 AM
    #12
    Kuneff

    Kuneff Carpe Diem

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    Yes, normal bleeder screw. It is easy to find, there is a rod that runs from your center diff (rear) crossways to the driver side frame rail. It goes right on to this valve. Its easist to get from under the truck with the spare tire out of the way. You can still get it with the tire, just seemed nice when I did it that the tire was not under the truck. Its right in the area of where the upper bolt for the rear shock is.

    If I am not mistaken, the brake lines for the front and rear of the truck pass through this valve. Then the front runs back forward from it to the front calipers.
     
  13. Dec 7, 2011 at 7:49 AM
    #13
    pmiller613

    pmiller613 [OP] Active Member

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    No wonder you have to bleed that valve if the lines run back and then to front again! I would have never discovered that on my own I think...

    [ETA] To resolve my original post regarding bleeder screw size... on my '96 4x4 4cyl. the back bleeders on the drums are a larger size (M10 I think?) than the front on the calipers (M8?). Not certain on the sizes but the front were definitely smaller than the rear.
     
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