Front brake hardline repair?

Hi ! I wonder if possible to repair a hard line ? I have a small hole in the coil like section of hardline front driver side . My idea is to cut that section and put on a 8 in premade brake line . Obviously flaring both side with fitting before that. Does this affects anything at all? I mean is there a purpose for this coil like section ?
Why not change the full line you would say .. well that crap is rusted af and will end changing all parts from abs module to caliper ..
In fact that was my first idea but if i can repair would be better.
So good idea or not?
08 tacoma

 

You talking about the pigtail looking thing at the frame?

 

I wouldnt repair a part that stops my truck. I’d replace it.

 

Yes that piggy

 

Oooh. I was working on my brakes just yesterday and I was asking myself the same question, what is that for. I would get a replacement from Toyota.

 

Yes that was my first thought.. maybe ill go that way

 

If this were me.....I'd be replacing it with new OEM parts. I'd also inspect the rest of the brake lines.

I like being able to GO, but I also like being able to STOP.

 

I'd get a replacement for sure. The coil is there so that it can absorb the movement from the body (which the booster is mounted to) to the frame (where the brake lines hard mount to).

 

Ok I go OEM, heres the part im ordering:

• 4731804110 no8 brake tube
• 4731604140 no6 brake tube
• 9041210247 way union
• 4731504160 no5 ''main piggy tube''

do you guys think I should have the flex tube to?
and any recommendation on the way to do it?
like disconnect from abs module first? then the one that go to the flex?

I read a post here that say drain the MC before dont know if its good or not

 

tech tip, when replacing brake components, like calipers and wheel cyl, if you depress the brake pedal about 1.5 to 2 inches (use a stick wedged from seat to brake pedal, slide seat to depress pedal) the master cylinder WILL NOT DRAIN when the system is opened. doing this makes it much easier to bleed later as there is no additional air introduced because the master cylinder emptied while working on it.

note disconnect battery to keep from killing it.

 

You need to replace it. You will need extra brake fluid and you need to know how to bleed the brakes once you have line replaced.

 

So here's a little update on the job. Parts was ordered at toyotapartsdirect.ca , good price for oem parts ( fellow canadians only) and shipped quickly. Received today and it took me 3 hours to get it done.

The hardest part was to figure out how to put the main one were it go without twisting or bending it.
Good decision to have more parts ordered than just the one leaking. Rust never cure.

After bleeding all four wheels with the wife, who pump and hold great by the way, I tested it on the road and have the abs do is things on sand.

Everything seams up and running.
The pedal feels normal and the truck brake straight and easy.

I wanted to special thank's EME for the tips about putting a stick too depress brake pedal, very useful.

And thanks to everyone who replied and helped me through this process.

Like everybody says the best way to do it is to change with oem parts and avoid repairs on brake hard line.

 

Hi, this is an older post but
for anyone struggling to work that long brake line with curly-q into place, removing the heater hoses made it very simple.

 

I’ve run into the same situation—front driver’s side coiled section rusted through. Got the 47315 part from toyota, but it’s not the entire run to the actuator—just a short section with the coil. Did you receive the entire length from the wheel to the actuator?

 

I am about to replace this brake line as well. I ordered the part from the dealer but am worried that I will receive just the coiled end as well. Do you have a part number for the entire brake line back to the abs actuator?

 

For anyone who is replacing brakes lines because they rusted out, don’t use oem, get some nickel copper line and bend it yourself, that stuff is great, easy to work with and will never rust out. It doesn’t have to be exact match, just close, wrap it around something close in size to the diameter of the bends. Just make sure it isn’t rubbing on anything.

 

You will only receive the short coiled end. It also doesn't match the bends that the original (in my 06) has. I was able to monkey it around and splice into the original line--but that old steel line is tricky because if there's the slightest bend, you can't get your fitting onto it. I bought a roll of the copper that I'd planned to use but didn't have to in the end. Going to hold onto it though and use in future repairs. Good luck.

 

NiCopp//Cunifer brake lines are a miracle development for DIY (and even pro) repairs. It's so easy to work with, flare, etc. The only issue I've read about is that you have to be careful about abrasion after install because they can be worn through much easier if they are constantly rubbing against something harder (like framing, bolts, etc.).

 

Does the short coiled end come with the fitting pre installed? I will make my own line for the rest of it. And do i just use a double flare 3/16 union fitting to join the two? Thanks for the help.

 

They would have to - once a tube is flared (on both ends), there is no way to add a fitting (fitting has to be on the tube prior to flaring).