Front Brake Rotors, Calipers, and Pads Gone Insane

so true, NO AIR GUNS ON THE WHEELS!!!! probably why mine were warped even after cutting......kids

 

This is the answer you seek OP. Rotors rarely warp, and by rarely I mean never under normal usage.

 

***ETA*** Crap. Just saw the link was already posted. That's what I get for posting w/out reading first!***

This. I haven't read the whole thread so forgive me if someone else already said all this but rotors don't warp, they get pad material deposited it certain spots from not being bedded properly.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

I recommend:
rebuilt Eclipse calipers from Napa (Toyota reman.'s)
brake pads & rotors from StopTech (can't recommend them enough)
bleed them properly (including ABS system)
torque rotors properly
torque wheels properly
bed them properly

 

It’s the way you’re driving dude. I live in the Houston area too and all my stuff is original and still looks brand new ( brakes, rotors, etc) , and I have 58k miles. I normally don’t drive on the highway and take lots of short trips.

Stop braking hard, use engine breaking, and slow your roll.

 

That is crap. Rotors do warp and they can warp bad. Heavy loading or major performance mods without increasing braking will cause warpage. Running the wheels down with a rattle gun set at 500lbs will warp the rotors in certain cases. Under normal use rotors should rarely warp. Have a caliper sticking or overheating them will warp the disc.

It is a piece of unrienforced steel subjected to an extreme environment. ANYTHING is possible.

Laws of thermodynamics and physics are never wrong.
Even the one about airplanes being to heavy to fly is right, that is why it is called powered flight.

 

Welcome to my safe place. Glad there was some room available for you.

 

supposed to be a dig...I get it, however, I'm not wrong.

how do I know I'm right......service manuals. there would not be a "run out" measurement if rotors did not warp, oh wait, it actually has a maximum WARPAGE limit in the book........hmmm, guess STOPTEC is right and Toyota engineers are wrong........and the two severly warp rotors in my garage are just full of pad material even after being cut.......

then again this could be a strange therapy for some.......

 

Errrr! Anyone got a horse and buggy for sale? No Nix the buggy it has wheels. Just a horse and saddle.

 

No, but you can ride my sister. She is as ugly as a horse

 

Horses have shoes. Saddles need bridles and blankets.

So you're going to need a blacksmith and a tack store.

Unless you just want to go bareback on an Indian pony.

 

So by the golden years what they meant was you need a gold card.

 

You are leaning too much in one direction.

Rotors do not warp under normal conditions is the point being made.

No body said rotors Never Warp. They will and can when they are abused outside of Normal Limits.

You even said so yourself here:

 

Wrong dude, there is a post from stoptec that makes the claim that rotors never warp.

Now, you and I have had some bullshit in the past so I'm going to straighten this up and leave it alone.

rotors will warp under extreme conditions, they will also warp under normal conditions due to other factors such as:

Rapid heating and cooling....IE running down the highway at 90, jumping on the brakes and hitting a good size "puddle" of cold water.
*this happens in NORMAL conditions*

Caliper dragging or seizing up this is abnormal but not extreme.

swollen brake lines.....normal occurrence

contaminated brake fluid

shitty brake pads

running the wheels in with an air gun........EVERY tyre shop does this

letting the vehicle rest on the rotor.....even a small amount of pressure can start the bending.

rotor too thin to begin with......THIS happens more than it should.....cutting rotors is an art.....not a race....

using wrong brake fluid.....YES this happens WAY more than it should, since DOT4 is good DOT5 should be better.....DOT5 is silicone oil DOT 5.1 is DOT4+

lift kits with larger tyres.......NORMAL occurrence at least here....

now Jimmyh

If you want to fight over bullshit some more I have all this data and more at my disposal. in my 25 years of fixing things from F-15s to kids motorized toys, there are things that happen due to human error (over torque) and thing that happen because of extreme situations.
in this case all of the human factors have lined up to cause this situation. Which is not "normal". How it got to this point was "normal".

the one no one has mentioned is the rotor material itself.........how was it made? was it mixed right? was it properly heat treated? were they dropped? hit with a hammer?..etc...etc

Normal conditions is a general definition of "all things green" or my favorite "everything is 5 by 5"

The OP is not running "5 by 5" so there is an issue someplace. Which makes the "normal" condition for him which is to chew up pads and rotors.

Mine warped under NORMAL CONDITIONS due to FACTORY rotors being less than "ideal" parts and because some asshat rattle gunned my wheels down to 100lbs at some point. The warp became WORSE when cut.

I said the rotors SHOULD NOT warp under normal conditions, I never said they WILL NEVER OR CAN'T.

SHOULD NOT
and
WON'T or WILL NOT or NEVER are different ends of the spectrum.

Jimmyh, stop nitpicking and looking for what you THINK is something off. you remind me of a guy I used to know.......EVERYTHING was black and white and had to be 100% perfect and verified 20 times............He ended up in the funny farm due to a mental instability......

 

Actually not a dig. It's fact. You are absolutely in my 'safe place'.

'Safe place' is my politically correct name for the forum feature called the 'ignore list'. Which you were temporarily on, but are now permanently on.

When one goes off bombing quality folks like @Jimmyh and @DoorDing, one is displaying full on chest thumping ignorance. These aren't internet kids who can barely rotate tires. They are seasoned in lots of aspects of analysis, diagnosis and actual dirty hands work. And I'm not a complete stranger to the automotive world myself.

Please feel free to ramble all you wish. Just wanted to be sure you knew I'd not be wasting my time reading.........

 

Buh bye

 

It is good to know that you can post a wall of text. I just loved the comment that "you are going to straighten this up". That is absolutely adorable. And the fact that you have been working on things for 25 whole entire years. Wow is all I can say.

You don't even have enough sense to know that you are saying basically the same thing I said except you want to be an @ss and use a wall of text and insults to others just as a final cherry on top.

I too think I will ignore your childish rants and maybe one day you will grow up and maybe learn something in the process.

My last response also.

 

Stock brakes at over 100,000 miles here. My rig weighs about 6000 pounds. I often have to brake hard for wildlife in the road when traveling over 60 mph, often when the roads are wet.

What is this rotor warping I keep reading about? I've never experienced it, in any vehicle of mine.

Actually, I have a couple friends who seem to have this problem on every vehicle they own...Hmmm

 

It happens,
There are a number of variables at work.

This thread was originally an attempt to help someone out and it turned into a shitstorm directed at me by a few muppets who can’t stand me or the information given.

Now as far as the warp issue, I had it happen on my rig due to people using impact guns to run on my wheels, got worse after I cut them, they are bent at the hub which caused extreme heat which added to the issue.

The op has some issues that could be brought on by human error or poor maintenance or even a problem part, you sir, happen to be one of those that has not had a wannabe jack up your rig and claim it is ok.

I have not had an issue since I swapped out my rotors.....yet.

I hope I don’t and I hope you don’t either.

 

Typical