Front Brake Rotors, Calipers, and Pads Gone Insane

my 2015 DCLB 4x4 front brakes were warped by 18K miles and i haven't done any hard braking or mountain drives. I think the issue was the rear drums was out of adjustment making the front brakes working harder then normal. Dont quote me but im told the rear drums are suppose to re-adjust each time you set the parking brakes (which i rarely every use) or have to do the backing up method. But after adjusting the rear drums both the pedal feel and truck stopped much better. I later installed some Centric High carbon rotors with Hawk pads and would regularly check/adjust the rear drums. at 32K miles so far so good.

 

weird. im on stock rotors at 100k only ever changed the pads once

 

I have a 2007 double cab Prerunner that has 158k miles on it. I'm still on the original brakes and was curious how they were wearing so I pulled the front wheels off yesterday to have a look see. I could not believe it. I still have a good 1/4 inch left on my original pads! At my current rate, I'm thinking I got another 5 years left! The rotors looked great too. Hardly any wear lip on them. I guess it's all down to my superior driving skills

 

Thanks to those that have read through the bullshit and personal attacks.

Some of you have had good luck others have had issues, what is interesting is the fix is centered around replacement and adjustment, not cutting or any other strangeness. Mine were warped due to shop negligence.
The op might have the same issue.
Just one thing for ALL of you.

Flush the brakes fluid every 2-3 years. Makes a world of difference and can prevent issues like caliper lock up.

 

I think you need to go back and read from the beginning.

The first 5 or ten posts were nothing but true info and an attempt to diagnose.

It went down hill when someone thought they were the shit by posting a link to a white paper that is false in every way,
Then it starts with people and the “safe space”, then attacks based on OTHER threads and issues with certain people who attack any thread I post in for no other reason but to incite drama and then complain to mods so I get banned.

You are misguided if you think I am emotional and bitchy.
Quite the opposite. I have no reason to post facts or lies, or to help or hinder. Y’all don’t pay me for my info, so yeah, when I post it is for YOUR benefit.

If you think I need to pc my responses then it shows just how “sensitive” this site is.

This thread started good with factual info and a direction for a member to proceed in to address an issue, it soon turned nasty and personal.

I will defend myself and what I know and can PROVE. If I can’t defend my position, I don’t.

Lies and falsehoods by others need to be called out for what they are. If that means I’m being a bully.....well, too bad it used to be called debate and educational discussions.

Since I have had the pleasure of fixing others crap for 25 years and being lucky enough to race and play with hydroplanes and fighter jets I have picked up a wealth of info that others wish they had.

I will not apologize for being right.
When it comes to brakes, I am more or less a guru, I do nothing but brakes for a living.....on everything legal for street use.

If my info is to abrupt for you and others, grow a set. This is WHY the US is the strongest nation.

Yeah, I don’t pander or hold hands, you ain’t my kids and I thought the people here were adults.

But, I suppose you and others would rather turn the other cheek multiple time before doing anything.

Yeah, I’m direct and “all up in to grill”
That is how I am built and how I was trained.
Oh, since I could care less about “friends” on the internet, all of what I post is constructive.

My avatar is not a representative of character, shows you know nothing about me. The avatar is the truth, this world was better when one could speak their minds without issue.

I don’t think we will ever see eye to eye or eye to elbow....oh well

 

Must have gotten home early, usually the soap opera drama queens are done by now.

 

I recently bought a 2015 Tacoma 4x4 TRD Off Road with 37k miles on it. I can't speak to what the former owner did with the truck, but I can state it had some braking issues, which I noticed after living with it for a week or two. The front rotors had a fair amount of pulsation while braking, which became more evident after I removed the BFG M/T KM2's and replaced them with BFG A/T KO2's. I attempted to bed the pads in again by going through 6-7 60 to 10 MPH stops, to the point I had a good amount of smoke coming off the stock pads with some pad material transferring to the rotors. After a long drive to let them cool, the pulsation continued without much, if any change. This made me feel like it wasn't pad material on the rotors and instead runout.

I installed new StopTech cryogenically treated rotors with TRD performance pads this past weekend. While I have not tested braking performance due to breaking in the pads, the initial bite is reduced on my TRD Off Road (which is a good thing cause the stock pads were very grabby) and there is zero pulsation while braking. My 2001 Tundra 4x4 TRD warped the rotors in no time, until Toyota released a TSB to upgrade the size of the brakes, which helped a lot. I didn't abuse the brakes on that truck either. Runout does happen, it just depends on the vehicle, the type of driving, brake system components, towing, the driver, environmental conditions, etc. Rotors of lesser quality tend to show more runout or brake pulsation issues, than higher quality units from my personal experience.

 

One thing that nobody's talked much about is why virtually every shop replaces rotors as opposed to turning them on a brake lathe these days. The cold, hard truth is that they make more money by replacing them. It's not that good rotors are that cheap because they're not. But new (generally Chinese) rotors are dirt cheap. So they can legally tell a customer that they got brand new rotors with their brake job and most (uninformed) people look at the shiny new parts and are duly impressed - event though they're actually looking at junk. These inexpensive rotors generally do not last nearly as long as more expensive rotors. Hell, the low price had to come at some cost!

The other issue is that turning rotors on a brake lathe - or even on the vehicle - is somewhat of an art form. Most mechanics these days wouldn't have a clue as to how to set up or run the machine. So even if you ask to have your rotors turned, the chances of it being done correctly is pretty low.

My personal opinion is that it's actually better to replace rotors with high quality replacements rather than turn them. Why? Because turning them reduces the amount of metal in the rotor and thus the rotor's ability to absorb heat. That leads to rotors that are in fact easier to warp. But that's just my opinion.

BTW: I got 58,000 miles out of the OEM front brake pads on my 2014 Tacoma and I tow boats on a regular basis. Although the rotors were in pretty good shape and not warped, I elected to replace them along with the pads. I used all Toyota OEM parts.

 

More than a few and the list is growing. Ignored .

 

Rotors don't warp and you have a shitty attitude. Runout isn't warped.
http://www.brakebleeder.com/the-basics-of-rotor-run-out/

 

Whatever he said works for me too, not interested in your private messages either.

 

Same here the clown private messaged me too.

 

Man whoever said all the excitement was in the 3G section was WRONG.

 

By all means, dirty it up.

 

Aye yie yie yie yiah!
Thanks everyone!?