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Front brakes, how hard to service them?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ZMan2k2, Mar 29, 2013.

  1. Mar 29, 2013 at 1:59 PM
    #1
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I did my 90k service today, and noticed that I'm almost to the wear clips on my front brakes. My rears still have plenty of meat on them, so it's just the front that I need to worry about. How hard is it to swap the front pads and rotors? Should I go OEM, or would an upgrade be in order? EBC pads and rotors for example.
     
  2. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:02 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    OEM pads aree the best mix of performance, low dust, and stopping power. Its easy as pie to replace them. Loosen the brake fluid resivoire, Pull the tire off, remove the spring clip, remove 2 pins on the front and back of the caliper, then slide the pads out. Carfully compress the pistons, then insert the new pads. Do one side of the caliper at a time, so as to not have one side of pistons over extend while you are compressing the others in.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6mB_YQP0r8
     
  3. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:05 PM
    #3
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Stick with OEM.

    I've used EBC on my bike and have not been happy with them.
     
  4. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:07 PM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    This ^^^

    Remember, "Performance" pads are softer, and will wear out quicker. "Longevity" pads are harder, and can be hard on your rotors. OEM is the best of both worlds.
     
  5. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #5
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    And shortcuts.

    EBC specifies the same pad for the front and rear right side of the Vulcan 1600.
    It's a 4mm pad.

    OEM pads have two different part numbers for the front and rear. Front pad is 4mm, rear pad is 9mm.

    The Kawasaki pads lasted 15k. The EBC pads lasted 7k, and were very "grabby"... had a few "oh shit" moments where they locked up. But even though they were "grabby", they didn't stop any better.
    Kawasaki pads were less than $10 more than the EBC pads... $170 vs $150 for the set of 3 pads.
     
  6. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:35 PM
    #6
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. And thanks chris for the video. So easy a caveman can do it, or me, whichever.:D Time to order me up some new pads.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:48 PM
    #7
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Front brakes is much easy. I'm in the middle of drum brake hell with my passenger rear right now. Gotta wait for the dealership to open up tomorrow so I can get new shoes. The old ones got warped when the e-brake lever froze out of place then slipped outside the reaction lever. It was a mess in there...broken return spring, I had to file down the lip of the backing plate so it won't rub and squeal on the drum... to top it off, Autozone gave me the wrong aftermarket brake shoes.

    Only went with them because the dealership was closed today. Returning them in the morning and picking up the OEM stuff.
     
  8. Mar 30, 2013 at 12:04 PM
    #8
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to the video, I had the fronts done in 45 min. The pins were rusted in pretty good, but a brass drift and a hammer fixed that. No shimmy, no squeal, and I have brakes that will last another 90k kms. Thanks again guys.
     
  9. Apr 1, 2013 at 12:44 PM
    #9
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

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    They are very easy to do. You might want to consider getting the ceramic pads because they release less brake dust, I little more pricey but well worth it I think. One thing that hasn't been covered in this thread is Don't forget to remove the fluid reservior cap when you press the calipers pistons back in, keep an eye on the fluid level constantly as you do this step, you might need to remove some fluid out. good luck man
     
  10. Apr 4, 2013 at 11:33 PM
    #10
    MountainEarth

    MountainEarth Well-Known Member

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    What kind of lubricant does he put on the back of those pads?
     
  11. Apr 13, 2013 at 11:44 PM
    #11
    DESRTRNNR

    DESRTRNNR Well-Known Member

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    its not really lubricant.. it is an ant vibration compound to keep brake squeal from happening.. that tab he pointed out but didnt know what it was is actually a built in squealer that lets you know your pads need to be replaced..
     
  12. Apr 13, 2013 at 11:57 PM
    #12
    adio

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    sub'd. can't wait to replace mines. noob question, but how do you actually loosen the fluid reservoirs?
     
  13. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:04 AM
    #13
    medic2230

    medic2230 Ditch Doctor

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    Just open the cap.
     
  14. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:06 AM
    #14
    Brian007Taco

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    I am going to need to do mine soon. Do you have to have the rotors done everytime you replace your brakes, or is that a dealership gimic to get more money out of you.
     
  15. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:17 AM
    #15
    adio

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    Bought, not built:-P
    haha thanks, and I thought I had loosen things up or something.
     
  16. Apr 14, 2013 at 2:12 AM
    #16
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Long time lurker, first time poster.

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    We always machined rotors if we could or put new ones on when I was working in a repair shop. Bendix Brakes seminar I went to recommended the same thing to ensure proper mating of the new surfaces. Downside to not doing it is lack of stopping power, squealing, chatter etc. but I've never experienced any of those. YMMV
     
  17. Apr 14, 2013 at 8:08 AM
    #17
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I mic'd the rotors, and there's plenty of meat left on mine. All I did was rough up the surface with some 400grit sandpaper to help the bed in process. The rotor surface itself was plenty flat, without ridges from previous pads, to need a resurface.
     
  18. Apr 15, 2013 at 2:42 AM
    #18
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    So you're saying don't do it exactly like the video?
     
  19. Apr 15, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #19
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    LOL...

    I leave the old pads in place to compress the pistons. Makes it a lot easier on dual-piston calipers. Never done 4-piston (that I recall)
     
  20. Apr 15, 2013 at 9:35 PM
    #20
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Long time lurker, first time poster.

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    Same. And yeah I'd do one caliper at a time like Chris said.
     
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