Front Diff Bearing Diagnosis

I've been reading for about an hour in various places and just want to be sure before I drop the money on the ECGS bushing. I've got vibes from the front end that increase with road speed.

Engaging 4x4 doesn't seem to make much difference.
My wheel bearing seems fine, no play and no noise when spinning.
Just pulled the wheel to check things out.
When I grab the CV shaft near the diff, I can move it up and down about 1/4". This does not seem normal to me.

Am I right in thinking this is the diff needle bearing? I have the weekend off so I will need to order it soon.

Also does anyone have the tools they wouldn't mind loaning out? I'll pay shipping, etc.

 

I just did this work this weekend. I was not 100% sure of where the vibrations were coming from but I have 173000 miles. I did have some play on the driver's CV and the vibes/growling from the differential...I think. In 6 hours I was able to replace both cv axles, replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing and replaced both front hub assemblies which were purchased from Marion Bumper2Bumper. Now no more vibes and it rides smooth as butter. The whole process didn't take that long and wasn't really that difficult. Depending on mileage, I would bite the bullet and do it all. Don't forget the removal tool from ECGS...pulling the needle bearing with the tool was probably the easiest part.
You will also need a slide hammer, hose clamps, jaw puller and a bearing race kit. The race kit will be used to tap in the ECGS bushing. I rented those three tools from Oriley Auto for $163 as a deposit.
There is also a ECGS tool swap thread if you really don't want to drop the money to buy one.

 

I just ordered the bushing and removal tool, should be here thursday. I've got a nice 4 day weekend to work on it. I'm gonna be pissed if it ends up being the wheel bearing, lol.

What did you need the slide hammer and hose clamps for?

 

The 1/4" of play is common on the left side. However, make sure you have the truck on level ground, wheels straight, not jacked up in any way, and the driveline completely unloaded (in neutral, parking brake set), then reach the inner left CV and check for play.

The Tacoma does not exactly have a stellar history with front wheel bearings. While driving, does the vibration change or go away when turning right or left? A lot of times the wheel opposite the turn will be the bad bearing (but not always by any means) if there is a substantial change in vibrations.

You have to take off the CV shaft to get to the driver's needle bearing. The finger(s) on the puller are often used to grab the notches in the inner CV joint and the clamp to keep them tight in place and the slide hammer then yanked.

 

Don't be. The ECGS bushing is a nice upgrade. I also echo the above poster's comments about possibly biting the bullet and just doing it all. But only you can make that decision.

 

Sorry...back in this conversation a bit late. What he said about the hose clamp and hammer. Pull the other 2 hooks off the puller and then flip the remaining one over so the hook points the opposite way. Hook it to one of the notches on the inner cv housing and then hammer it out. It will be held on there by the hose clamp, I tightened it down using a driver instead of doing it by hand. But don't use a real hammer to put them back in; I may have used a regular hammer and may have beat the threads up a bit. Well, I did and it was stupid. Use a small crowbar or a long screwdriver and lodge it against the inner cv housing, then hit the bar/screwdriver to get it back in.
Don't forget new seals all around. Inner and outer if you are going to do all the work at once.

 

Just an update, on the way home from work today the growling got a little worse. I have had wheel bearings go bad in my trucks before, so I am aware of the "slalom test". At the time I started this thread I had checked that a couple times and could not tell any difference. Now, however I think I can hear that its the pass side wheel bearing, as when I "unload" that side the noise dies down a bit. I didn't have the energy after my shift to check into it further, but I will shortly.

If it turns out to be the bearing, am I correct in my understanding that this is all I need? Thanks.

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...-4-0l-efi-dohc/698589_967763_0/?checkfit=true

I will probably just do the ECGS bushing since I have it anyway.

 

I just fixed my front needle bearing yesterday. symtoms were 20-40mph+- grinding/vibe. Went away instantly when switching from 2wd to 4wd hi. Drove me crazy. Hope you get it fixed what ever it is. I would bet if it is coming from the front your problem is a wheel bearing too. Since it doesnt go away instantly in 4wd. But that is only a guess. In the past when I had bad wheel bearings the noise would usually change just a little when turning it right to left like said above. Let us know what fixes it. Good luck!

 

Just a reminder that there is a new HD version of the bearing available. The link shows the old. For the work involved, and if you are going to keep your truck a long time, I would do both sides and the bushing.

 

I have had a vibration when I leave home make a right up to 55mph.I think sometimes brake pad rub on drivers side or a cupped tire.It is still hit and miss.WTF...

 

I'm getting the moog bearing from advance auto. Am I correct in assuming I dont need any other seals, ect? I keep seeing stuff saying I need seals for the bearing. I am getting this one,as it is what my local store carries.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-hub-assemblies-front-wheel-hub-assembly-515040/18440257-P

 

You may want to consider going this route. The inner seal you need is part# 710573, that's a National Brand Seal.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...one-the-work-you-save-the-money.288282/unread

 

Got the bearing changed out. Hardest part, other than finding someone to press the bearing for me was getting the old bearing off the CV shaft, had to use a puller. The drivers side bearing is making noise now.

Now I have an ABS light and Check engine light on. scan gauge says P2195, O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1.

I have a feeling a must have jacked up the ABS sensor during the install, as I forgot to take it out to keep it safe. could copper based anti seize mess up the sensor reading?

This truck is becoming a small money pit lately. haven't had time to mess with it yet, just thought I would vent a little, lol.

 

As long as no seize got on the unit.Thread are fine.Discont battery over night.After 50 or 100 miles if all is good the code goes bye bye.

 

I put anti sieze on the CV threads and splines. I'll pull the sensor and see if there is some goop on it. Good possibility I got some on there, or i may have hit it with something. Is there a way to test with a multimeter?

 

I have similar vibes in my '06 Tacoma. The noise goes away in a right turn, so I changed the right wheel bearing. The noise is still there. I just learned of a common '05 and up Tacoma problem with the front diff driver side C/V bearing. Another thread on here indicates that East Coast Gear Supply has created a solution to the problem by replacing the needle bearing with a bushing that they have manufactured. I'll be making this swap along with changing my other (left) wheel bearing in a few weeks.

 

Just went out and pulled the sensor. it was covered in bearing grease. Cleaned it off, put it back in and went for a drive. Cleared my code with my scangauge and went for a 10 mile drive. No codes! I still have a growl, however. Turning right makes it die down, like it is still coming from the passenger side bearing, which I just replaced. Weird. Maybe its the drivers side diff bearing after all? I wonder if turning right moves the CV shaft just enough to change the noise, just grasping at straws here......

At least my light didn't come back on.

 

Get under your truck and wiggle the C/V shafts at the front diff. On mine, the one on the driver side has much more play than the passenger side.

 

So I'm tackling the Diff bearing right now. I've got everything torn down to the CV axle. The friggin thing wont budge. I've used pry bars, used the bars as wedges, even got a hose clamp and made a make shift slide hammer, which broke the clamp. Are there any tricks to this? So pissed at it right now.

 

No real trick.Some are just hard to pop out.Ive had easy ones and pain in the ass ones.You will get it.