front differential side bearing replacement.. done!

Both bearing, seal, and CV. I have all the parts sitting in my garage already. Just counting the days...

 

Good luck man..

Is it possible to record the sound it makes pre-install?

 

Last time, yes. This time, no. The sound wouldn't show up this time because it's too quiet. And while I get the cyclical vibe now, sometimes after driving awhile it actually gives me a constant vibe through the pedal. Hard to describe that one, but it's almost as if I'm driving over a very fine washboard. Having held the bearing in my hand, it's kind of like they're all dry and not turning completely. While I know that's not the case, that's the best way to describe the feeling in the pedal.

Still, the audible now would be more like a deep tone that lasts a couple of seconds, then disappears for 3 or 4 seconds, then repeats the cycle.

 

Did you try overfillign front diff and see if bearing gets lubricated

 

Hmm you can feel the vib thru the pedal? Like both gas and brake?

On mine.. I can feel it in the steering wheel and most noticeable on the floor right in front of the break pedal.. Almost right above where the front driveshaft connects to the front diff.

 

Yeah, I'm hoping I don't have two things going on. The front diff cyclical vibe is obvious (at least for me since I know exactly what it feels/sounds like). The other one just seems odd, but it sort of fits with the other...it just isn't cyclical at times and it only can be felt between 35-40 mph. What I didn't mention is that it seems to be smaller and more constant (less cyclical) after I've been off road driving in 4wd for a long time. That's what makes me think of it as the bearings aren't turning well (all that time in 4wd, they aren't turning). But in another week, I'll know for sure if it was just the one problem or not. I can't see it being anything else at that speed range and going away in 4wd. So hold off on commenting on any other possibilities until I do the fix next weekend because then we'll know for sure on that constant one.

 

can you take a picture of your bearing and seal, to compare it with the ones i have sitting in my garage??? i finding it hard to believe that this tiny bearing is the right thing....

 

I know, I questioned it too. I even confirmed the part numbers with 06RadiantRed since he's done his already. It seems like a tiny cheap little piece that wouldn't last a thousand miles! I even put it on the new cv axle I have to ensure it fit. Here's some pics with a tape measure for perspective:

 

I have the same peices/part numbers sitting in my center console, hoping to get them in within the week.

 

Can you get close up pictures of the writing on the bearing? I'm looking to source the bearing and see what the specs are (load, speed, etc.) Also if you have a spare axle laying around could you take some pictures with the bearing slid onto the axle? Trying to see how much "slop" there is

 

Other than the Japan and Koyo stamps, the numbers on it are: BSM354126AJ

And there's not much slop. In the first pic from the end of the axle, I'm also pushing up on the bearing with my thumb. The rollers inside are still touching since they more or less float inside the bearing case.

 

Whoa, that bearing looks a lot less substantial than I was envisioning. If that's the same thing that is being removed with a slide hammer and puller, doesn't seem like there is much there to grab onto.

 

And that's precisely why it comes apart with a standard bearing puller. It feels like it's made of tin. I bet if I squeezed it in my hand that I could crumple it like a soda can. The only thing keeping the needles together is a nylon (plastic?) piece inside that keeps them together. So bend the outside metal enough to warp the inside nylon and the needles will go everywhere. I'm still trying to make my own attachment to try out Saturday. I figure if I can make one that works, then I can include it in the write-up. After all, they're just standard hardware store parts that I'm shaping with a dremel.

 

Thanks for the info...what I don't understand is how the drive axle can move up and down so much on the truck if that bearing doesn't have any play. Obviously the movement is coming from somewhere!

 

Bingo.

 

Maybe bearing spun and now case has more space. In manual hub days I believe there was bushing inthere right. Now its needle bearing. You could not spin bushing but if it is so easy to remove that bearing I am guessing there would be possibility to spun one too

 

I'm following this thread. I believe this is the problem I may be having. I replaced the pass side wheel bearing (It was bad) about a week ago and still had the vibe/noise. I have new driver side bearing on a spare hub ready to install, but noticed my axle boot has grease leaking from it. I figured I'd buy the axle to put in while I am doing the wheel bearing. Now I am wondering if this bearing may be bad as well. I hate to take this all apart to put a new axle in only later to find it may need this bearing as well. I just turned 90,000 miles. Guess I'll wait for your write up's with photos.

 

Where did OP buy these parts:
Parts required are:
Needle Roller Bearing - 90364-35010 $11.31
Oil Seal - 90311-47012 $7.56
Cardone CV Shaft - 665235 $44.79
These prices look great!

 

Rich, have you done the 4wd test yet to determine the cause on the vibe?

At the dealership, I paid $13.45 for the bearing and $8.97 for the seal. CV Shafts vary depending on who you go with for a used one (when I called various places on the new ones listed on the internet, they actually weren't available for some time...even their warehouses didn't have any). Used around here ranged from $66 to $99.

 

Yes, I put it in 4wd and it sounds the same. Guess for now, I'll get the axle and put it in with the new wheel bearing/hub and seal. Hope that will make the sound go away.