Front end Creak

Hmmmm
I couldn’t really hear sound in your vid….I listened 3times
But
The steering parts…no
U will wear out your tires 75% faster than normal….no noises though
The CV axle….very possible

 

Is the sound more prevalent if you turn the vehicle?
Or can’t replicate consistently?

 

No noises while turning only. It’s either when there is a bump that puts the weight of the truck on the front suspension (ex speed bump or harsh dip) Or a combination of a bump on the front driver wheel while turning

 

Oof, was sorry to read your latest posts.

Yeah like others have said rack movement is shot bushings and a pop in the axle is worn Birfield joint. Are your CV boots cut up/is there grease leaking? Usually CVs wear once dirt has infiltrated the joint/grease has been lost.

From what you and others have said it sounds like you’re due for a front end rebuild. You already did ball joints so the job is like 30% done, I’d replace the worn half shaft, get SR bushings done, outer tie rod ends, and inspect those end links for excess play.

Do you know when the truck was last aligned? If it’s been awhile your alignment cams might be seized. Happened to me and I wound up having to torch off my lower control arms after I did a front end job and couldn’t align the vehicle.

 

Definitely need new CV’s been seeping grease for a bit now just kinda ignored it. I’ll probably do the SR bushings myself as it doesn’t seem to complicated and I’ve heard that Toyota doesn’t like to replace them only. What do you mean by half shaft? Got an alignment like 6 months ago

 

When I go to do the steering rack bushings, should I grease them or not. Don’t think it would hurt. Only thing I got on hand is Lucas red n tacky, is lithium grease fine for energy poly bushings, if they need grease at all. Getting mixed signals from threads on weather SR bushing need grease

 

Whichever side CV is creaking and popping can be replaced; the half axle is the assembly with both CV joints that connects differential to wheel bearing. It’s pretty simple to replace if you’re pulling tie rod ends anyways and can swing the hub out. I usually recommend a rebuild if just leaking but since yours is popping the Birfield is already shot and you need a new half axle. You can keep driving on it but it won’t get better and will eventually start binding worse. Might be able to save the other side if it’s not already making noise.

I usually grease the inner metal sleeve of bushings. Service manual probably specifies if needed. If you bought A/M bushings they usually have instructions on where to apply grease/what kind. I’m on the road or I’d check mine for you.

If you had alignment 6 months ago you’re good

 

Alright. Have gotten the steering rack bushings done with the ES kit, no more play in the rack. Still need to do the rest, looking at doing the end links now. I was impressed by the energy steering rack kit and found they made a sway bar bushing kit aswell. What do you think about just changing the bushings instead of the entire link, the kit comes with the body mount SB bushings aswell as the end link bushings.

 

If you have an 02 I’m not sure your end links have bushings. I’d check play either way. If the ball and socket is super loose the link is done

 

Took a while, but replaced the center bushings and end links to my sway bar and the noise is slightly less noticeable, truck has to be really diving on the front to make any noise, but it’s still there. My guess now is either cv making that noise (doubtful) or some bushing for the upper or lower arms. Or maybe something to do with my bilstiens? Thoughts anyone?

 

You already mentioned your CV is leaking and noisy so why are you ruling it out? It seems like the obvious culprit to me. You can get lifetime warranty aftermarket CVs from any of the major auto parts stores for pretty cheap.

The job is a pain in the ass but it’s not hard, especially since your truck has ADD. Pop the tie rod end and lower ball joint, remove dust cap on spindle and unbolt the old CV. Swing the knuckle out the way and use a pry bar to pull out the old CV.

This video will help with the removal/installation, but don’t reboot if it’s making noise - the joint is already worn beyond repair.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCT4UgFUTw

 

new inner / out tie rods, CV's, LBJ's, suspension, UCA's, is all it took for the noises to go away

 

Simple enough haha. I think im going to build up a surplus of enough suspension parts so I can install all at once to just get one alignment. Might get the CV,s done soon

 

LOL spoke too soon, my icon UCA's are squeaking now

 

Any CV’s you recommend? I’ve heard good things about Napa. Want to be able to wheel pretty decent on em

 

Don't mean to hijack the thread here, but I just discovered my passenger side sway bar end link gives a clunk and I saw the culprit visually. I could see the slop moving up and down on the sway bar link and when I held down the sway bar with force while my fiancee rocked the truck back and forth the sound went away. Driver side looked good.

Question. Can I just delete the sway bar completely, its not a must have is it? This is my daily driver and I don't ever turn wildly. thx.

 

I've been rebuilding my OEMs so I'm not super familiar with the best A/M options, sorry

 

Yeah you can delete, you'll just have more roll in turns. Lots of people take them off tho

 

Have done some research on CVJ reman cv axles and if possible trying to avoid those price tags. My cv’s at the moment are still seeping grease out from the clamps around the inner boots, but no noise while driving at all. Only clicking when the truck is on jacks at full droop which I’ve heard is somewhat normal. Willing to buy one cry once for the remans but I’m curious to whether or not it would be worth trying to reboot.

 

I definitely reboot rather than use A/M so I think it's a useful skill to have! If you have the patience and you're willing to get greasy I'd give it a shot!

For me the two biggest challenges are 1) getting the hub dust caps off without damaging them, and 2) crimping the metal bands without the special service tool. A really thin chisel and patience works well for 1, for 2 I have been using a small bolt cutter haha.

That Timmy video is great and shows all the steps.