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Front end noise over large bumps. FIXED!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Saskabush, Sep 4, 2015.

  1. Oct 13, 2015 at 3:17 PM
    #21
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    411
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    Male
    First Name:
    Adam
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    Update 2:Fixed now. It was the top hat spacer on the coilover. Not LCA bushing. I replaced the whole LCA a couple years ago and it did nothing.

    Update: After removing and re-assembling the strut, I can confirm this is not the problem. It made a temporary improvement that lasted for about a week and is now getting worse. I'm leaning toward LCA bushings now.

    So I finally confirmed it is in fact the coil making the noise! I was jacking it up this weekend and it made the noise while it was lifting. I placed my hand on the coil and felt it move when it made the noise.

    Now the question is why is it making noise? And what do I do to stop it?
    My guess is that the coil is rotated ever so slightly too much or too little on the perch and as the coil compresses/decompresses it is moves and creates a poping sound. I will have to take the whole strut off and compress the coil to fix it. Is there an ideal position for the coil to sit on the perch? Would it help/hurt to put a piece of rubber on the perch before setting the coil again?

    I took a couple pics of the coil on the perch as it sits now.





    IMG_5368.jpg
    IMG_5369.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2022
  2. Oct 13, 2015 at 4:20 PM
    #22
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    5100 @ 0” w/ 2.5” Eibach spring, 1.5" Icon Progressive 3 leaf + 1” block, Procomp Wheels, Grill Thin Lip (Custom Car Grills Mod), Access Tonneau Cover, Pop & Lock Tailgate Electronic Lock PL8521
    Just use the easy method of separating the spring from the strut. You won't even have to completely remove the strut assembly using this method to fix your problem. This method is widely used and many agree it's safer than using a cheap spring compressor. I've done this many times and it's quick and easy.


     
  3. Oct 19, 2015 at 10:15 AM
    #23
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Saskatchewan, Canada
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    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    Thanks for the video! I would love to try this but I'm hesitant to remove that top nut. There was something wrong with the threads on either the shaft or the nut and it was a nightmare to get on. Had to keep tightening and loosening it repeatedly to get it to go on. I think there was some burring on shaft threads.

    I'm considering just buying a new shock and rebuilding the whole assembly. Other option is to just use compressors on the coil to get enough play to re-seat it. Either way I will unfortunately need to pull the whole assembly out.
     
  4. Oct 19, 2015 at 10:54 AM
    #24
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Jack the truck up on that corner. Put spring compressor on spring. Lower corner to full droop. walla, free spring, then you can reseat it. without having to take anything more off than the wheel.
     
  5. Oct 19, 2015 at 12:48 PM
    #25
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    We think alike! I tried that last weekend... The spring pretty much needs to be a full droop to have enough space in between the coils to get the compressor on but then the UCA gets in the way. And the strut mount covers the back half where the UCA isn't. Just my luck!

    I don't mind (much) taking the strut right off... I just want to make 100% sure I fix the problem before re-installing it again.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2015 at 12:54 PM
    #26
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    yeah, if the threads on that top nut wernt messed that would be the easiest way by just unbolting the LCA
     
  7. Sep 19, 2016 at 7:36 AM
    #27
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    Update:

    I finally got around to taking the strut off and re-seating the coil. It took a while to find spring compressors that would fit and work! The top didn't show any signs of where or anything. The rubber was in good shape and there was no wear spots in the metal. The bottom perch however did have a small shiny wear spot right where the corner of the end of the coil sat. I think that was my problem area!

    When I re-assembled the strut, I made sure the end of the coil at the bottom was further away from the slope on the perch. I also twisted the coil so that the end of the coil at the top was not near any of the top plate bolts. Also, when I took the strut off I noticed that the top plate was not perfectly lined up with the bottom mount on the shock body. So when it was installed on the truck, the whole assembly was slightly twisted. I made sure that those were in line when reassembling.

    After driving around a couple of days, the noise has definitely gotten better but I am still hearing the noise on some bumps/dips. But I need to hit them a lot harder now for it to happen. I think that the bottom of the coil is still moving a bit on the perch. I wasn't able to compress the coil enough to get in there and properly clean away the dirt/rust so that's likely why i'm still getting movement.

    I'm just going to have to live with the noise for the time being. At least it is better now and i know now that it isn't anything that will get worse and cause bigger problems (knock on wood). The next time that strut comes out it will be to replace them with Fox adjustable coil overs!
     
  8. Dec 20, 2017 at 7:49 AM
    #28
    @old.man.adventures

    @old.man.adventures Well-Known Member

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    Did you ever determine if your LcA bushings were bad? Mine move like that but i think it may be normal?
     
  9. Dec 20, 2017 at 8:52 AM
    #29
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    The bushings themselves are ok... Its the metal sleeve inside them that is corroded along with the cam bolt sleeve. Those two metal parts are supposed to move freely but because they are corroded, they bind and make a popping/creaking sound when the LCA moves up and down.

    That much movement in the bushing is normal i guess. But I will be replacing them with Whiteline poly bushings which are supposed to help with that and hopefully solve the annoying popping noise. Just haven't had time (or money) to do it yet.
     
  10. Dec 20, 2017 at 9:20 AM
    #30
    @old.man.adventures

    @old.man.adventures Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Did the dealer tell you it was fine? I've heard conflicting info, some say normal others say it's not. I would guess a little flexing is needed so forces don't transfer to the mounts.
     
  11. Dec 20, 2017 at 9:56 AM
    #31
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Adam
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    Vehicle:
    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    My dealer thinks everything I come to them for is "fine" lol. From my research, that much play is normal. Whether its fine or acceptable is a matter of opinion. Rubber bushings do tend to have a lot more play than poly and because of this they tend to wear out faster. As long as they aren't cracked or separating it should be ok.
     
  12. Dec 20, 2017 at 10:35 AM
    #32
    @old.man.adventures

    @old.man.adventures Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again. My truck is at the stealership now, It's anyone's guess what they will have to say.
     
  13. Aug 25, 2022 at 9:56 AM
    #33
    Saskabush

    Saskabush [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, 16" TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 BFG K02, 1.25" wheel spacers, TRD skid plate, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    Gonna revive my old thread to say I finally figured what was causing the noise and have now fixed it. It was the top hat spacer on the coilver moving slightly. I think the 1/2" spacer plus the extended length 5100s just made the whole assembly too tall and threw the geometry off. I replaced the front coilovers about 3 weeks ago and it has been completely silent ever since, even when trying to get it to make the noise.

    Took like 8 years but glad I am finally free of this annoying noise lol.
     
  14. Nov 18, 2022 at 6:32 PM
    #34
    Grumpylicous

    Grumpylicous Well-Known Member

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    Well thanks for all your posts. I have this noise on my 2017 so I’m about to explore all the things you have. I have factory suspension so no telling but I’m about to start this battle
     
  15. Feb 6, 2023 at 3:38 PM
    #35
    Gdeyarmond

    Gdeyarmond Well-Known Member

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    Did you ever figure out what was causing this noise?
     

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