Front End Rattle

I did a few different searches here, and couldn't find anything matching my issue - which is probably a good thing.

My problem:
When my 2007 Taco hits a crack, bump, or pothole I can hear a rattling sound. I can also feel the rattling in the floorboard. Strangely, this only happens when the truck is traveling straight. If the wheel is turned left or right, there is no rattle.

All brush plates are buttoned tight.

My specs:

• 2007 Tacoma TRD Access Cab
• Bilstien 5100s on all corners; level
• Toytec AAL
• ECGS Bushing

I put the bushing in about two months ago, and the rattling started in the last two weeks. I'm looking for any suggestions on where to start.

Thanks!

 

Uca and lca ball joints?
I have the same thing. Just to lazy to check it lol

 

There's a part of me that was worried about the ball joints since the bushing is now in place, but I couldn't find a reason why that would be. UCA would be a great excuse to beef those up, but wouldn't they rattle when I'm turning, too?

 

Depends. When turning you have applied force to the suspension vs just going in a straight line where there is less force. I can only hear mine driving slow across small bumps.

 

That's exactly what I'm hearing.

 

I'm leaning towards the lca ball joint

 

I just did some poking around on that. I'm getting mixed reviews on the difficulty of replacing the ball joint. Some claim it's simple, and some claim it's impossible.

But, before I do that, I'd want to be sure that's the problem. Anything I can do to isolate the ball joint as being the problem?

 

Usually you can unbolt the two bolts holding the lca to the bottom of the spindle. Once that comes of, you should be able to see the ball jojnt. Then grab the ball joint move it around. Feels to easy and loose. Then it should be it. The ball joint should be nice and firm to move around d

 

There should be a few right ups on how to replace them on here. Might have to Google it

 

Great! Thanks! I'll see what I get

 

Brake pads possibly.

 

First off... What's a Brush Plate??

This might seem odd... but check your front mud flaps. Not the screws....

Look where the mud flaps touch the body line.

My mud flaps cracked and separated the entire length at the body line. If you push on them back-n-forth you'll see the crack.....This cracked part rubs on itself/body back-n-forth causing a pretty significant noise. Mine got worse - a gust of wind made the noise happen while driving straight.

 

Good thinking! I got underneath and gave 'em a good shake and bump, but nothing loose. That doesn't rule them out, but it wasn't for sure.

I checked the mud flaps and they're all on nice and tight, unfortunately. I was hoping that would be it because it would lead to a simple and cheap fix.

The brush plate I'm talking about is that big silver slab of sheet metal that goes from the front bumper down under the truck. I forget exactly what it's called.

I saw a video on YouTube where you put a floor jack underneath the lower control arm, and raise the wheel just enough to get weight off the tire. I moved both wheels and got no play. So, if the Tacoma can be verified the same way, I should be good on the ball joints, too. All the seals were intact too.

 

The Answer:

The right-front sway bar link was shot. Pretty badly rusted.

Additionally, I discovered that a leaf spring broke. Right-rear just over the ToyTec AAL I had installed last Fall. Makes me wonder if the AAL install might have caused a problem with the Toyota leaf, or if it was just rusted and ready to go. The saddest thing is that I RARELY hit anything other than dirt roads and potholes.

Toyota wanted $2200 for a replacement spring pack, but the shop across the street agreed to make a single replacement leaf and re-assemble the old pack for $500.

(Sigh). Why didn't I buy that scooter instead?

 

yep sounds right, anytime i hear people say shuddering i think of bad ball joints and bad end links. I would opt to go for dakars instead of a 2200$ -_- replacement. If you do it yourself you can save a few $$$. Pretty simple with time, jack stands, and some nice clamps depending on the route you go.

 

Great idea. You mean these?

That would even be cheaper than a rebuilt spring.

If I added in the U-Bolts and Bushings, I'd be sitting pretty good. But, I've got 5100s on all four corners, and the Toytec added 1.5" lift to the rear. I like the way my Taco sits right now and the Dakars add 2.75" of lift, meaning I'd be-tail high another 1-1/4 inch from where I am now?

 

yep, ive got those. they hold up real nice and good for heavy loads compared to stock. its an easy install. dropping the rear axle is a pain though.

 

You got me all excited for a bit!

If I add the Dakars, I'm going to need new rear shocks, too. The Billstein 5100s really only go up to a 2" lift, I think. The Dakars would damage those 5100s on a bounce, I think.

If I'm wrong, though, this would be a great solution and a nice upgrade at the same time.

 

5100s will hold up fine with dakars. just remember to unbolt them when you drop the diff so it doesnt overextend them.....oh and watch out for the brake line hangers ;p

i had trouble because i was lazy and didnt removed the wheels when i did the install. so i had to jack the car super high......you should be fine.

 

Well, inesshell, you nailed it!

I called Wheeler's Off Road to see what they recommended, and they recommended the Dakars. When I asked about the 2.75" height, they pointed out that you can simply pull the second-from-the-bottom leaf and it'll bring her to about a 1.75" lift with no reduction in ride/handling to the Dakars.

It's going to cost more (about $400), in the end, than replacing a single leaf, but I looked at it this way:

1. Replacing both leaf packs at the same time will have both leafs sagging at the same rate over time.
2. I'd rather spend some extra money to get a complete set of leafs that aren't rusted for the time being.

Basically, I want my leaf packs to age at the same rate. Plus, it looks like the Dakars will give me a much better ride that stock+Toytec AAL.